Front end noise- not bearings or ball-joint...

[in_sherman]

I have noticed a noise in the front end that was like a reciprocating scraping. The noise changes when the right front goes over a camber change or is loaded. And I believe the noise is due to a suspension component that is actually loose, because I can feel a little instability when braking, especially.


So this made me think it was probably a bad bearing so I replaced both front hubs. This didn't fix the problem, so I replaced the ball joints and bushings on both control arms and then aligned the front end.


The noise continues. Sometimes it's a quiet scraping and others more of a thumping, but it's never severe. The only thing I can think of is a problem with the shock or top hat, or problem with brakes?


Anyone else have a similar experience? Any advice would be appreciated.

[Opie]

This bulletin provides a service procedure to address a small number of customer concerns regarding a sound coming from the engine compartment when going over bumps at low speed.
The sound is a result of foreign material trapped between the attachment surfaces of both stays and the toe board bracket and strut tower. The stays are the braces between the firewall and both strut towers.
SERVICE PROCEDURE / INFORMATION:
1) Road test the vehicle to confirm the customer’s concern.
2) If the condition is confirmed, remove the stays and road test again to determine if the condition still exists.
• If the sound persists, the root cause is elsewhere. The strut mount(s) would be the next component to investigate.
• If the sound is gone, proceed to 3).
3) Remove both stays and hardware.
4) Thoroughly clean both the mounting surfaces of the stays and the corresponding mounting surfaces on the strut towers and toe board mounting bracket. Use a mild
solvent on a clean shop cloth and allow to thoroughly dry before reassembly.
5) Reassemble in reverse order using new hardware. Torque all of the new flange nuts and bolts to 16 Nm (11.8 ft. lbs.). DO NOT OVERTORQUE
6) Road test the vehicle again to confirm the repair.

[norcalpb]

Does it happen when turning? Do you have a video by chance?

[ls1ac]

Have you started with the simple? Check the brakes. End of life of pads. Hot spot on rotor.

[dholloway543]

I have the same problem right now and i have followed mine to be loose and missing skid plate bolts. When turning the cars front end flexes and if the skid plate is loose it will shift and pop. Just an idea to look at. I had to purchase new skit plate bolts today myself

[in_sherman]

Hey everybody,

Still hunting this problem down. I want to extend my appreciation to those of you who have tried to help me out, and sorry if I haven't listened to your advice.

Opie, I will try removing the braces and replacing them. The rest of the bulletin goes on to state that the nuts and bolts on that step are one-time-use (seriously?) and need to be replaced after removal. Once I have the parts I will do it and report back.

Since this issue I have replaced the steering rack (saw there was grease in the bellows, indicating that it was bad) but this didn't fix the issue. I used the old outer tie rod ends because they seemed to be in fine shape.

The top hat bearings look brand new and the shocks seem to be mounted to the steering knuckle tightly, although I haven't re-torqued them yet.

The car makes noise without the skid plate attached.

The noise is pretty consistent at any speed but it does worsen on right handers (I think I mentioned it was really effected by turning right onto a side road with the right wheel getting hooked over a camber change). I am starting to get a more wander-y steering feel and vibration even when the toe is aligned just fine.

I bought new pads and rotors but I don't believe that is the issue due to the changing of the noise during turning. I can feel the problem a little more during braking but it doesn't get worse during braking, so I don't think that's it for now. Brake service coming soon though, because why not.

I do have a video of it- about halfway through I put it in neutral and turn the wheel back and forth which makes it worse, although you can hear the noise throughout the whole thing. The clicking noise when I start the steering is just some stuff in the car moving to and fro. Disregard my crappy rev matching:

Thank you.

[in_sherman]

Originally Posted by Opie

This bulletin provides a service procedure to address a small number of customer concerns regarding a sound coming from the engine compartment when going over bumps at low speed...

The nuts/bolt to the braces were actually quite loose and were torqued up to spec. Also loose were the top hat nuts. Other hardware re-checked: knuckle/strut, steering rack, rack linkage bolt, subframe pieces (removed to replace rack), other subframe pieces (removed to get to the front A-rm bolts), A-arm bolts, hub assemblies, and all the sway bar linkages and mounts.

Unfortunately there was no change in the scrape-y reciprocating noise and vibration during a test drive.

Parts replaced so far:
-A-arm bushings (Superpro)
-A-arm/knuckle ball joint (Racer X)
-Hub assembly (SKF, I even replaced the right one a second time because I thought the replacement might be bad)
-Steering rack

My plan now is to do the brakes before taking it to EFI Logics in Bethel to see if they can help out. Although when I spin the wheels with the car in the air, the noise from the rotating brakes in minimal. Pads seem okay. The noise happens both with and without the underpanels attached. I wish I could take the whole car apart right now, inspect everything, and put it back together piece by piece but unfortunately circumstances don't allow for that.