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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 05-18-2020, 11:11 PM   #15
krauterz
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as smooth as ever.
No shaft play yet, probably done about 2k km's.
makes some great dose with the BOV blocked off I tell ya whut
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Old 05-18-2020, 11:18 PM   #16
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Glad it's working for yah

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Old 08-03-2020, 02:10 AM   #17
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I just realized I saw this same kit on alibaba for $1000.

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Old 08-05-2020, 08:09 PM   #18
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Didn't read whole thread but figured I'd weigh in. I have a BRZ and e60. One of the highly reveered bang for buck turbo setups uses 17t or the newer 19t turbos for the n54 engine. These turbos are made by VIV auto parts, either amazon or ebay, and they seem to be in the undercutting and providing more power. The dual turbo kit for the n54 cost $1000, while their GT28 is only $250. Might not be a bad choice, if you wanna read up or watch videos just search "N54 17t" or "N54 19t"
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Old 04-12-2022, 07:03 AM   #19
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2 year update

Hello friends.
It has now been two years since the turbo was fitted.
Last week the turbo was removed, as well as the headers, oil return and intake piping.
The decision to remove the turbo was one that took a deep amount of thought, however, I am pleased to report that it was not removed due to a hardware issue.

yes, the turbo performed well from day one. the decision to remove it was based on a few things. I will list them in order of relevance:
  1. Mechanical sympathy:
    I simply could not enjoy the boost as much as I would have hoped. My experience is one of WRX's and bigger 6 cylinders, both of which had the power I was after in stock form. Slamming a turbocharged NA engine does not have the same sensation of mechanical faith as that of a stock turbocharged car, or a car with a bigger engine. every time I put my foot down, i initially got excited by the power, however that was quickly overcome by a sensation of "oh crap am i going to send a rod through the block?"
    for most people, this is not a big deal and usually plays a much smaller part in their decision, however, for me, I am much more aware of the potential having wrapped a few bearings in my time.
    I know I originally said that the engine is old, and I am not too concerned if I blow it, however, the upsides simply did not outweigh the downsides in this situation.

  2. Insurance:
    Nobody would insure this damn car even after getting an engineer plate approved. the insurers who did wanted a royal buttload more than I was willing to pay.

  3. Fuel efficiency:
    The price of fuel is getting pretty wild, and although a turbocharged engine is known to be more efficient than an NA engine, you can still burn waaay more fuel at WOT.

  4. Safety/fines:
    This car was a bloody rocketship when it was running well, and I constantly found myself going way too fast just through the adrenaline. I am starting a family soon, and this was a no brainer.

  5. Tune issues:
    We just couldn't get the tune right even after countless hours of road tuning we put into it. the intake piping caused some issues with MAF scaling that caused the car to feel a little jerky while not on boost. it was a very minor issue but it drove me bonkers.


OK, now that all that boring shit is out of the way, lets talk about the condition of the kit after 2 years.

Turbo:
The turbo came off the car in very similar condition as when it went in with one exception. a small seal leak on the exhaust side which caused a bit of unwanted smoke at WOT. I lived with it, but some of you concerned about emissions or your rear bumpers paint job may want to consider this as something to steer you toward something a bit more well-known. thats not to say well-known turbos dont blow seals too, however its something to consider.
The turbo has very little shaft play, and in fact from memory it has not changed since before installation. the shaft still rotates as freely as ever.

Headers:

I made the stupid decision to wrap my headers in fibreglass (stupid stupid idea. made working underneath my car a complete nightmare. that shit is itchy as all hell) and as a result the headers were often fairly damp just from water soaking into the fibreglass. even so, the headers show no signs of rust or cracks. the downpipe looks as fresh as ever.

Intercooler:
not much to report here, no cracks and no sign of wear.

Pipe fittings:
no signs of wear or degradation from heat. they look great. not swollen either.


Things I would do differently if I were to do it again:

I certainly wouldnt waste my time trying to put my own drain fitting on the sump. the position is critical. too high and the pipe will rub on the belts and pulleys. too low and you will be below the oil line causing oil to back up, and your pipe will rest on the headers. Use braided steel return hose with good fittings. if this pipe melts (mine did twice) or comes lose and you dont pick up on it, thats it. game over. If I were to do this again, I would buy an off the shelf sump and use a stainless steel braided return line with proper fittings.

I would also go for a much smaller turbo. the GT28 is just way too massive. even with dual ball bearings, it did not spool until around 3400RPM and the lag itself was a good second or so at around 4500. it held boost way too easily at redline, however, I was only running wastegate (8psi) so those of you intending to run closer to 12 may want to stick with a turbo this size.
personally I would go with a something closer to a VF34 or even a TD04 to get a much earlier and faster spool. driving this thing around town was a total slog due to the significant torque hit the engine took at low revs due to the increase in backpressure and retarded base ignition timings.

I would do the clutch first with a stronger organic aftermarket clutch capable of the torque requirements. I stuck with a stock clutch for this, however in 4th gear on the highway I had to be very gentle with it, which cycles back to the mechanical sympathy issue. Had I have done the clutch first, I would still have a good stock clutch plate to put back in my car if I found myself taking it off again.

I would also have someone Dyno tune the setup. I did not want to do this, as it would mean a locked tune which I was not keen on, however as stated above, we just could not get it to run properly.


This is the end of the line for this turbo, at least for this car. its now going to a mate of mine so he can use it for a liberty project. I will not be returning to forced induction on this car, having gone back to UEL catless headers and E85, Im finding the car far more enjoyable. I can thrash it everywhere without stressing about it, it makes a great noise and the insurance is less than half the price.


As a passing remark, if you are considering turbocharging your BRZ/86, or any car for that matter, consider the points I have made above. you may find that you might not be able to enjoy that power and chuuchuu noises as much as you thought. taking on a project like this requires a serious amount of consideration from all angles, and, its better to be on the side of caution than excitement.

I always wanted to turbocharge an NA car, and I did it. Hindsight has taught me that it wasn't for me. I hope some of you have found this thread informative and helpful
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Old 05-21-2022, 09:28 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by krauterz View Post
Hello friends.
It has now been two years since the turbo was fitted.
Last week the turbo was removed, as well as the headers, oil return and intake piping.
The decision to remove the turbo was one that took a deep amount of thought, however, I am pleased to report that it was not removed due to a hardware issue.

yes, the turbo performed well from day one. the decision to remove it was based on a few things. I will list them in order of relevance:
  1. Mechanical sympathy:
    I simply could not enjoy the boost as much as I would have hoped. My experience is one of WRX's and bigger 6 cylinders, both of which had the power I was after in stock form. Slamming a turbocharged NA engine does not have the same sensation of mechanical faith as that of a stock turbocharged car, or a car with a bigger engine. every time I put my foot down, i initially got excited by the power, however that was quickly overcome by a sensation of "oh crap am i going to send a rod through the block?"
    for most people, this is not a big deal and usually plays a much smaller part in their decision, however, for me, I am much more aware of the potential having wrapped a few bearings in my time.
    I know I originally said that the engine is old, and I am not too concerned if I blow it, however, the upsides simply did not outweigh the downsides in this situation.

  2. Insurance:
    Nobody would insure this damn car even after getting an engineer plate approved. the insurers who did wanted a royal buttload more than I was willing to pay.

  3. Fuel efficiency:
    The price of fuel is getting pretty wild, and although a turbocharged engine is known to be more efficient than an NA engine, you can still burn waaay more fuel at WOT.

  4. Safety/fines:
    This car was a bloody rocketship when it was running well, and I constantly found myself going way too fast just through the adrenaline. I am starting a family soon, and this was a no brainer.

  5. Tune issues:
    We just couldn't get the tune right even after countless hours of road tuning we put into it. the intake piping caused some issues with MAF scaling that caused the car to feel a little jerky while not on boost. it was a very minor issue but it drove me bonkers.


OK, now that all that boring shit is out of the way, lets talk about the condition of the kit after 2 years.

Turbo:
The turbo came off the car in very similar condition as when it went in with one exception. a small seal leak on the exhaust side which caused a bit of unwanted smoke at WOT. I lived with it, but some of you concerned about emissions or your rear bumpers paint job may want to consider this as something to steer you toward something a bit more well-known. thats not to say well-known turbos dont blow seals too, however its something to consider.
The turbo has very little shaft play, and in fact from memory it has not changed since before installation. the shaft still rotates as freely as ever.

Headers:

I made the stupid decision to wrap my headers in fibreglass (stupid stupid idea. made working underneath my car a complete nightmare. that shit is itchy as all hell) and as a result the headers were often fairly damp just from water soaking into the fibreglass. even so, the headers show no signs of rust or cracks. the downpipe looks as fresh as ever.

Intercooler:
not much to report here, no cracks and no sign of wear.

Pipe fittings:
no signs of wear or degradation from heat. they look great. not swollen either.


Things I would do differently if I were to do it again:

I certainly wouldnt waste my time trying to put my own drain fitting on the sump. the position is critical. too high and the pipe will rub on the belts and pulleys. too low and you will be below the oil line causing oil to back up, and your pipe will rest on the headers. Use braided steel return hose with good fittings. if this pipe melts (mine did twice) or comes lose and you dont pick up on it, thats it. game over. If I were to do this again, I would buy an off the shelf sump and use a stainless steel braided return line with proper fittings.

I would also go for a much smaller turbo. the GT28 is just way too massive. even with dual ball bearings, it did not spool until around 3400RPM and the lag itself was a good second or so at around 4500. it held boost way too easily at redline, however, I was only running wastegate (8psi) so those of you intending to run closer to 12 may want to stick with a turbo this size.
personally I would go with a something closer to a VF34 or even a TD04 to get a much earlier and faster spool. driving this thing around town was a total slog due to the significant torque hit the engine took at low revs due to the increase in backpressure and retarded base ignition timings.

I would do the clutch first with a stronger organic aftermarket clutch capable of the torque requirements. I stuck with a stock clutch for this, however in 4th gear on the highway I had to be very gentle with it, which cycles back to the mechanical sympathy issue. Had I have done the clutch first, I would still have a good stock clutch plate to put back in my car if I found myself taking it off again.

I would also have someone Dyno tune the setup. I did not want to do this, as it would mean a locked tune which I was not keen on, however as stated above, we just could not get it to run properly.


This is the end of the line for this turbo, at least for this car. its now going to a mate of mine so he can use it for a liberty project. I will not be returning to forced induction on this car, having gone back to UEL catless headers and E85, Im finding the car far more enjoyable. I can thrash it everywhere without stressing about it, it makes a great noise and the insurance is less than half the price.


As a passing remark, if you are considering turbocharging your BRZ/86, or any car for that matter, consider the points I have made above. you may find that you might not be able to enjoy that power and chuuchuu noises as much as you thought. taking on a project like this requires a serious amount of consideration from all angles, and, its better to be on the side of caution than excitement.

I always wanted to turbocharge an NA car, and I did it. Hindsight has taught me that it wasn't for me. I hope some of you have found this thread informative and helpful
Same consideration I took before jumped on works turbo kit. I'm inclined to do final gear swap (4.8) to give a bump in acceleration. My FRS is no longer daily driver, dont care much about fuel consumption on highways. Thank you for your insights, I thought I was the only who are on cautions side
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