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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 09-17-2020, 01:29 PM   #15
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Ah forgot about the Turbo comment. Never heard of the PTuning one. I like the idea of getting it out and away from the engine. Didnt know anyone made them for this platform.

How is the Greddy turbo setup? We are a Greddy dealer. Without digging and looking to much into them yet, this is the way I was thinking of going. Just the name usually associated with quality and we are can get them at a discount.

-Krawl
Done properly, rock solid reliable. See my for-sale thread to get an idea of what it takes to make the powertrain work well. I'd add a few things to that list for most folks. If you'd like consultation for your build, PM me and we can make arrangements.

Here's a video of my car at ~300whp (wastegate) on a T518Z kit.

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Old 09-17-2020, 01:46 PM   #16
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I'd recommend a 14' minimum simply for the sake of the deeper pockets on the rockers, 15'+ preferably.
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Old 09-17-2020, 02:39 PM   #17
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Thank you for the reply!

So basically, 2014+ is okay. 2014/2015 and we need to look at the coil pack issue. I assume there is a upgrade for these?

I will look into adding a oil cooling system. Thank you.

And another question I failed to mention. I want to add power to this thing. How much power can you safely add before you really need to start working on the internals on the motor? Which do you prefer for the track, a supercharger or turbo? I am leaning the turbo route just for the simple fact I have never installed one nor had a car that ran one. My ZL1 is supercharged and here we supercharge things quite often. Just looking for something new and different. I am sure the turbo adds to the heat issue though.

-Krawl
If you’re pretty sure you want to turbocharge it and track with it, highly recommend you look at the build by @CSG Mike

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=142207

Or just buy his and save yourself the hassle. ��
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Old 09-17-2020, 03:42 PM   #18
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Guys... sorry for the newbie questions. I dont have a FRS/BRZ but maybe soon.

Right now, my toy is a 2018 Camaro ZL1. Picked it up to do AutoX and some Track Days but the longer I have it and the more I drive it, just not sold. Plus, not sure how I feel about learning more about track life in a $60K car. So, we are thinking of selling it. Have enough equity in it to build a pretty nice FRS/BRZ but before we jump in head first, have a few questions. I posted here as our main goal for the car is AutoX/Track Days/TT...maybe drift (we will see) but with something we can still drive on the weekends. Not a daily. Fun weekend mountain car. And something we can do some car shows and Cars & Coffee type events.

1. FRS/BRZ, any real difference and should we go one over the other?

2. The ZL1 is a Auto 10 speed trans. What is the auto in the FRS/BRZ? Does it have paddle shifters? Do you guys recommend the auto or manual for the track? I know your not a man if you dont drive a manual but the A10 in the ZL1 shifts a LOT faster than anyone can a manual. Didnt know how the auto stacks up in these cars and everyone's thoughts.

3. Anything we need to stay away from when looking for a FRS/BRZ? Anything we need to look out for? Looking for something stockish to build it. We (our company) are dealers for all major brands so we plan on doing everything ourselves.

4. Once we get a FRS/BRZ, where should we start? Any "Must Do's"?

Thank guys! Hopefully we will become a integral part of this forum one day soon...

-Krawl
Everyone seemed to answer your questions, but I have one comment.

Why not a SS 1LE? Totally understand why you don't want a ZL1, but what you describe basically lines up with an SS1LE in my eyes (2019+ obviously)

Totally understand if you just want to get away from the brand. But the SS1LE is a serious contender.

My car vs my friends SS1LE. He has Camber Plates and square wheels/tires. I have about $20k worth of modifications into the car. So in theory, my car is in fact worth more than his. We run virtually identical lap times however.

Here is him following me, you can see how the speeds (and thus time) are made differently



Here's me



Just something to get you thinking, that's all

FRS/BRZ is certainly a different driving dynamic.
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Old 09-17-2020, 04:08 PM   #19
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Have thought about it. Love the Camaro platform and LOVE the ZL1. To me, I like the build aspect of it. The SS1LE is a great car. Still not cheap. I would imagine in the 25-35K range which is doable... but it is a great car. I am not saying the FRS/BRZ is not, it just takes some work getting there. Why build or change something that is great off the lot? I get it it "built not bought" scenario. I like the fact with the FRS/BRZ, we can build it to make it ours. We have to work to get it to the SS1LE or closer the the ZL1 numbers (can dream right?). Also something I can get my son involved with and building on the car as well. He is about to turn 18 and need something to help keep him out of trouble.

-Krawl
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Old 09-17-2020, 04:09 PM   #20
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I generally agree with everyone that '15+ is ideal, and '14 is fine too. If you find the right deal on a '13 I wouldn't hesitate on it, as long as the build date is 06/13 or newer. I believe 05/13 is the month when the fixes got made for the valve spring recall, so cars built in June or later won't have the recall.

And yeah, swapping for the '15+ coil harness/packs will save you some money and headache in the long run. Though with the cost of that you may as well just get a '15, depending on what deals you can find.
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Old 09-17-2020, 07:13 PM   #21
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What did you spend, ballpark, if you dont mind me asking?

-Krawl
$380 on coils (I bought 5 so I had an extra)
$350 on harness new or $250 used
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Old 09-18-2020, 10:18 AM   #22
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Okay that is not to bad. So 14 might not be out. I am seeing a lot of 2013s for some reason and a LOT with salvaged titles. What are your thoughts there?

Also, what is the cut off for high milage? Over what is a no go?

-Krawl
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Old 09-18-2020, 12:07 PM   #23
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Are you planning on caging the car?

- Andrew
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Old 09-18-2020, 12:51 PM   #24
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Are you planning on caging the car?

- Andrew
Yes, that was my thoughts. Not sure if we will do a pre-fab one or if we will build one in house.

-Krawl
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Old 09-20-2020, 03:02 AM   #25
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IMO go for NA build to start. Do suspension, brakes, oil cooling, wheels/tires and aero. Not sure what your driving experience is but it's such a rewarding feeling to drive a slow car fast. Your looking for a change... This would be perfect. Add flex fuel, and a ace 350 or JDL 4-2-1 header and ecutek. Run it like this and then decided if you want or need more power. If your gonna strip it go for a 2014 and save some money. Just replace coils and the wire connectors with the fix model's.

Just my 2 cents

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Old 09-20-2020, 07:35 PM   #26
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Yeah, I would not boost it for a while. I want to drive and get to know the car first but it will happen. I want to lighten the car as much as I can to.

Back to the salvage deal, what are everyone's thoughts? I am just worried something is bent and eats tires or has other issues? Can most anything o these get fixed or strighted out?

-Krawl
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Old 09-21-2020, 09:20 AM   #27
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Yeah, I would not boost it for a while. I want to drive and get to know the car first but it will happen. I want to lighten the car as much as I can to.

Back to the salvage deal, what are everyone's thoughts? I am just worried something is bent and eats tires or has other issues? Can most anything o these get fixed or strighted out?

-Krawl
I'd personally avoid anything salvaged. Just asking for massive scope creep and gremlins that are going to risk a reliable track car otherwise.

With that being said, I did own a BMW 128i that was lemon law'd due to electrical issues. Put 50k miles on it with no issues and it's not onto it's 4th owner and still running strong.
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Old 09-21-2020, 11:16 AM   #28
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Right now, my toy is a 2018 Camaro ZL1. Picked it up to do AutoX and some Track Days but the longer I have it and the more I drive it, just not sold. Plus, not sure how I feel about learning more about track life in a $60K car. So, we are thinking of selling it. Have enough equity in it to build a pretty nice FRS/BRZ but before we jump in head first, have a few questions. I posted here as our main goal for the car is AutoX/Track Days/TT...maybe drift (we will see) but with something we can still drive on the weekends. Not a daily. Fun weekend mountain car. And something we can do some car shows and Cars & Coffee type events.
Let me ask you: Are you new to tracking? That'll change my opinion on what path you should take. Answers in red.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Krawl View Post
1. FRS/BRZ, any real difference and should we go one over the other?

Like mentioned, the two have slightly different suspension tuning, but it's barely noticeable. The BRZ does have some nicer trim + HVAC controls IMHO.

2. The ZL1 is a Auto 10 speed trans. What is the auto in the FRS/BRZ? Does it have paddle shifters? Do you guys recommend the auto or manual for the track? I know your not a man if you dont drive a manual but the A10 in the ZL1 shifts a LOT faster than anyone can a manual. Didnt know how the auto stacks up in these cars and everyone's thoughts.

I would highly recommend NOT getting the automatic transmission in the GT86 platform. Not only does it add weight and kill fun, but the gearing makes it incredibly slow. To iterate this point, the stock 0-60 of a manual car is 6.2 seconds done by C&D. The stock 0-60 of an automatic GT86 is a staggering 7.7 seconds by C&D. Not only does it cost more (new), but it destroys the already lackluster straight line performance that this platform has. Also, if you're new to track driving, having a manual really adds another level of driver engagement that I cannot imagine living without.

3. Anything we need to stay away from when looking for a FRS/BRZ? Anything we need to look out for? Looking for something stockish to build it. We (our company) are dealers for all major brands so we plan on doing everything ourselves.

Like mentioned, I would opt for a 2015+. They have a lot of little reliability improvements.

4. Once we get a FRS/BRZ, where should we start? Any "Must Do's"?

Honestly, not really. Maybe some high temperature DOT4 brake fluid and some brake pads. Otherwise, get some seat time on-track. After you have some time under you're belt, I'd recommend getting an engine oil cooler.
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