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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 06-17-2017, 11:40 PM   #7953
ajcarson11
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Wait, why do you jack up each side individually? Just go from the center of the diff and lift the whole back end at once. Worked well for me.

Check the thread for which is worse, overfill or under. I can't remember which is worse (I think it was overfilling).
My jack won't quite reach the differential pumpkin in the rear. So unless i'm missing some sort of magical jack point in the rear (outside of the pumpkin) then I'm stuck with jacking up each side at the side-skirt location.

..At least until I purchase a lift in the fall.
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Old 06-18-2017, 10:09 AM   #7954
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My jack won't quite reach the differential pumpkin in the rear. So unless i'm missing some sort of magical jack point in the rear (outside of the pumpkin) then I'm stuck with jacking up each side at the side-skirt location.

..At least until I purchase a lift in the fall.
I have never bothered to jack the rear end of the car up to make the s/c level as when I went to Sprintex one time and they topped the oil for me and they just did it on flat ground and filled it to the dot on the sight glass.

I have nearly 50k km on mine with no probs and if they did it like that it's good enough for me .
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Old 06-19-2017, 09:21 PM   #7955
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Anyone know where to get the sight glass replacement for the 210 blower ? Mine is leaking oil ... thx
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Old 06-21-2017, 07:50 AM   #7956
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I have never bothered to jack the rear end of the car up to make the s/c level as when I went to Sprintex one time and they topped the oil for me and they just did it on flat ground and filled it to the dot on the sight glass.

I have nearly 50k km on mine with no probs and if they did it like that it's good enough for me .
My SC was an earlier model which didn't have the sight glass, so had to jack the car up to check the dipstick. Glad they added a sight glass as checking the oil level was a pain with that tiny hard to read dipstick.
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Old 06-23-2017, 07:18 PM   #7957
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For anyone who has switched out the stock intake for an aftermarket intake: how much more SC noise did this swap introduce?

The child in me wants to hear more of that whine...

I figure that any intake change would require a re-tune. So trying to determine if its worth time/money -- If the increase is worth it, then perhaps!
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Old 06-24-2017, 02:42 AM   #7958
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For anyone who has switched out the stock intake for an aftermarket intake: how much more SC noise did this swap introduce?

The child in me wants to hear more of that whine...

I figure that any intake change would require a re-tune. So trying to determine if its worth time/money -- If the increase is worth it, then perhaps!
Yes a metal intake increases the supercharger whine. See my videos on youtube if you'd like to hear it. Compared to the other guy that had one in my area with the stock intake it was no comparison.
https://www.youtube.com/user/jreed187 then go to the uploads section.
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Old 06-24-2017, 12:50 PM   #7959
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Yes a metal intake increases the supercharger whine. See my videos on youtube if you'd like to hear it. Compared to the other guy that had one in my area with the stock intake it was no comparison.
https://www.youtube.com/user/jreed187 then go to the uploads section.
Thanks! Sounds great in your videos. So, you're referring to the metal intake runner which runs from airbox to throttle body, yes? Do you think it would make a difference even with the stock airbox? I ask because I see from your videos that you might be running a Perrin cai.
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Old 06-24-2017, 01:27 PM   #7960
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Thanks! Sounds great in your videos. So, you're referring to the metal intake runner which runs from airbox to throttle body, yes? Do you think it would make a difference even with the stock airbox? I ask because I see from your videos that you might be running a Perrin cai.
Converting the stock airbox to a metal intake+filter like the Perrin or Moto East is what will give you the largest sound difference. Keeping the stock box and getting a metal pipe to replace the plastic one won't have as much of a difference, plus good luck finding one. I have one of the few that were made by Nameless.

The Perrin intake is inconvenient to clean as you need to remove your front bumper to get to it. Even though the Moto East intake would take in more hot air because of it being inside the engine bay, the filter is simple to access and probably would have went with it instead if it was available back when I swapped. Also stick with the 2.5 instead of the 3" since you won't see any benefit from it from what I've heard.
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Old 06-24-2017, 05:06 PM   #7961
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Converting the stock airbox to a metal intake+filter like the Perrin or Moto East is what will give you the largest sound difference. Keeping the stock box and getting a metal pipe to replace the plastic one won't have as much of a difference, plus good luck finding one. I have one of the few that were made by Nameless.

The Perrin intake is inconvenient to clean as you need to remove your front bumper to get to it. Even though the Moto East intake would take in more hot air because of it being inside the engine bay, the filter is simple to access and probably would have went with it instead if it was available back when I swapped. Also stick with the 2.5 instead of the 3" since you won't see any benefit from it from what I've heard.
Thanks! I'll stick with what i've got for now... It would probably complicate the tune and would be $300 + locating a charge pipe to get all of that in place.
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Old 06-27-2017, 09:24 AM   #7962
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Where is everyone sourcing replacement parts? Can't seem to get a hold of Sprintex directly. Looking for new manifold seals.
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Old 06-27-2017, 10:36 AM   #7963
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http://www.mcmaster.com/
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Old 06-29-2017, 01:00 AM   #7964
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Does anyone else find their car runs fairly rough until it reaches optimal operating temperatures?

Until my car is warm, my car runs very poorly under 3k rpm, nearly like its coughing and spluttering and struggling to accelerate. Also, if I try to keep the revs at an even 3k rpm (to maintain speed) the tachometer bounces a bit. I don't expect it to have full power, but running smoothly would be nice.

I just want to work out what is wrong. After the car is warm the problems go away. Searching for possible answers. The tuner seems to think the tune is fine...not sure i'm convinced but I thought I'd explore other options.

Also have aftermarket header and catback.
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Old 06-29-2017, 01:41 PM   #7965
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Does anyone else find their car runs fairly rough until it reaches optimal operating temperatures?

Until my car is warm, my car runs very poorly under 3k rpm, nearly like its coughing and spluttering and struggling to accelerate. Also, if I try to keep the revs at an even 3k rpm (to maintain speed) the tachometer bounces a bit. I don't expect it to have full power, but running smoothly would be nice.

I just want to work out what is wrong. After the car is warm the problems go away. Searching for possible answers. The tuner seems to think the tune is fine...not sure i'm convinced but I thought I'd explore other options.

Also have aftermarket header and catback.
check your blower oil.
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Old 06-29-2017, 02:26 PM   #7966
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Does anyone else find their car runs fairly rough until it reaches optimal operating temperatures?

Until my car is warm, my car runs very poorly under 3k rpm, nearly like its coughing and spluttering and struggling to accelerate. Also, if I try to keep the revs at an even 3k rpm (to maintain speed) the tachometer bounces a bit. I don't expect it to have full power, but running smoothly would be nice.

I just want to work out what is wrong. After the car is warm the problems go away. Searching for possible answers. The tuner seems to think the tune is fine...not sure i'm convinced but I thought I'd explore other options.

Also have aftermarket header and catback.
On pump gas 93 I have significant stutters/hesitations in my tune when my car is cold. 70% of it goes away when the car is warm.

On e85 the rev range is butter smooth in comparison.

Just my experience.
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