Plastic Modeling

[Stephen W.]

Checkout any of the diecast forums. There is a ton of info out there.
A quick search revealed this one:
https://www.diecastxchange.com/forum...rt-ae86-again/

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

I know it's not plastic, but has anyone ever repainted a diecast model? Specifically AutoArt ones that are NIB?

Yes. Check my instagram, @Stratoswrc_jdm

[soundman98]

from past experience trying to do what you want to do, practicing is highly recommended. the paints got to be a little thinner, and masking is even more critical at the level of detail required.

[shiumai]

Originally Posted by soundman98

from past experience trying to do what you want to do, practicing is highly recommended. the paints got to be a little thinner, and masking is even more critical at the level of detail required.

...and don't use regular home depot masking/painters tape - it will bleed. Get the Tamiya yellow masking tape.

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Here are some pics.

First use any paint stripper you can find at your local hardware store. You can use a metal bristle brush by hand or use a similar dremel attachment to get the few stubborn flakes of paint off. Then scuff with sandpaper to create a good binding surface for the primer.



Scuff the primer, making sure not to go through it. Then it's time for base coat. This particular one was painted with Tamiya TS spray cans. Multiple mist coats over a course of 10 mins or so, until the desired depth was reached.



Then clear. I used 2K automotive clear from splash-paints.com



It's even safe to use over decals. Can't say the same for Tamiya clear

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by shiumai

I have not had a good experience with Duplicolor for models. The issue I had with metallic colors was that the metal flake in Duplicolor wasn't to 'scale'. It would look fine on a real car, but on a model it didn't look right - the flakes were too large. Solid colors should be fine, but I just stick to Tamiya or Testors for models.


Lots of great videos on YT about painting model cars.

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Tamyia makes a whole line of Model auto paints with metal flake that is almost to scale. They are lacquer so a bit harder to work with but they have most of the Subaru and Toyota colours.

Tamiya it is. The color looks very similar to the Nissan color. It's a mica/pearl paint. I've watched a few videos, and everyone always strips the paint, so that's what led me to my original question here. haha. I also don't have one of those mini sprayers, so everything will be done by can.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

Then clear. I used 2K automotive clear from splash-paints.com



It's even safe to use over decals. Can't say the same for Tamiya clear

Excellent work!

Now that you mentioned decals, I might have to reconsider this project since I don't have a way to obtain new decals. I think I read that AutoArt uses some different kind of decal??? I'd end up painting over all the emblems.

And in the end, I might end up spending more than I want to. Maybe I should just be content with one of the colors that's available on the AutoArt. I did order a 1:43 Ignition model in the color I wanted, but then was later contacted and refunded by the store saying their inventory count was wrong and they actually didn't have it in stock.

[StraightOuttaCanadaEh]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

Excellent work!

Now that you mentioned decals, I might have to reconsider this project since I don't have a way to obtain new decals. I think I read that AutoArt uses some different kind of decal??? I'd end up painting over all the emblems.

And in the end, I might end up spending more than I want to. Maybe I should just be content with one of the colors that's available on the AutoArt. I did order a 1:43 Ignition model in the color I wanted, but then was later contacted and refunded by the store saying their inventory count was wrong and they actually didn't have it in stock.

What model are you interested in anyway? And yeah they don't use decals, they use what's called tampo printing which is more expensive and better than decals (unless the decals are clear coated). Just keep in mind that some of their latest models are plastic, in which case no need to strip. Just sand like Tcoat mentioned

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by StraightOuttaCanadaEh

What model are you interested in anyway? And yeah they don't use decals, they use what's called tampo printing which is more expensive and better than decals (unless the decals are clear coated). Just keep in mind that some of their latest models are plastic, in which case no need to strip. Just sand like Tcoat mentioned

You actually have one of them from what I saw in your IG. The R32 GT-R "Tuned" version. I was gonna get the matte black one since that seems to be the least expensive out of all the colors, and figured if I did do the sanding down method only, it would serve as a good "base" for the mica red. I contacted AutoArt and asked if they have plans to produce it in mica red, and was told no. haha

But then I never factored the hot glue gun and respirator masks at the very least of additional items I would have to buy to repaint. Hot glue gun since I know some of the plastic pieces will have to be broken off, and that respirator for 2k clear. I'd also have to get various grits of sand paper and blocks since I read diecast models have super thick layers of paint (I've ran out of sand paper).

[Kaotic Lazagna]

After my Ignition order was cancelled, I thought about picking up a 1:24 Tamiya Nismo "custom" kit, and some how retrofitting BBS LM wheels on it. But I'd have to buy various paint brushes and paints (I threw out my kit long, long ago), and anything else required. So I assumed in the end, it's going to cost me over $150. I might return to this idea vs possibly messing up an AutoArt model. Just crazy how the BBS LM wheels cost as much, if not more than the actual car model.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

Excellent work!

Now that you mentioned decals, I might have to reconsider this project since I don't have a way to obtain new decals. I think I read that AutoArt uses some different kind of decal??? I'd end up painting over all the emblems.

And in the end, I might end up spending more than I want to. Maybe I should just be content with one of the colors that's available on the AutoArt. I did order a 1:43 Ignition model in the color I wanted, but then was later contacted and refunded by the store saying their inventory count was wrong and they actually didn't have it in stock.

Take a look online. You may be able to find the decals you want. There aren't many subjects they don't make them for.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

You actually have one of them from what I saw in your IG. The R32 GT-R "Tuned" version. I was gonna get the matte black one since that seems to be the least expensive out of all the colors, and figured if I did do the sanding down method only, it would serve as a good "base" for the mica red. I contacted AutoArt and asked if they have plans to produce it in mica red, and was told no. haha

But then I never factored the hot glue gun and respirator masks at the very least of additional items I would have to buy to repaint. Hot glue gun since I know some of the plastic pieces will have to be broken off, and that respirator for 2k clear. I'd also have to get various grits of sand paper and blocks since I read diecast models have super thick layers of paint (I've ran out of sand paper).

DON'T try to paint red over black! Get white or as said strip and use a white primer. Red over black would take many many coats.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Take a look online. You may be able to find the decals you want. There aren't many subjects they don't make them for.

Originally Posted by Tcoat

DON'T try to paint red over black! Get white or as said strip and use a white primer. Red over black would take many many coats.

If I were to do it on an AutoArt, I kind of wanted to stick with the decal type they used since it looks more realistic than normal decals.

Ah, and here I thought black would have been a good base. I think I'll probably just stick to my Tamiya idea. Sounds like less of a headache and chance of messing things up.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by Kaotic Lazagna

If I were to do it on an AutoArt, I kind of wanted to stick with the decal type they used since it looks more realistic than normal decals.

Ah, and here I thought black would have been a good base. I think I'll probably just stick to my Tamiya idea. Sounds like less of a headache and chance of messing things up.

in the past, i've met a few guy's in passing in hobby shops that do this sort of thing as a side business/hobby. i believe most of them are on scale modeling forums. if it's too big a job for you to do, you could consider checking some scale model forums for what some of those guys might charge to do it for you to a level that i know i couldn't achieve.