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02-26-2019, 07:30 PM | #71 | |
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Thanks a lot for making this by the way! A couple weeks ago some crazy guy was road raging hard at me and because I set my car up to unlock both doors with the remote, I was scared he was going to climb in my car or something because he stopped in the middle of his lane to be next to me at a red light and then cut me off on the green. I never usually lock my doors either especially since I'd have to do it so often, but this would make it a lot more convenient and safer for me. Thank you! Edit: Wait... I just realized that even if I plug in via the DC plug and use caps, wouldn't it still draw power via the obd2 while the car is off? Or does obd2 not provide power when the car is off, and if that's the case then why do I need the caps? Last edited by aznchris; 02-26-2019 at 08:40 PM. |
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02-27-2019, 01:55 PM | #72 | |||
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Hope it's clear |
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02-28-2019, 01:25 AM | #73 | |
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02-28-2019, 01:22 PM | #74 |
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Lol no worries keep us updated
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03-03-2019, 03:58 AM | #75 | ||
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Hi sorry I need help. I tried this 2 different times before I drove to work and I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I've tried the "File > Examples > 01.Basics > Blink" and it seems to work. The LED on the arduino blinks and when I upload the AutoLockDoors ino it stops blinking and something else lights up. So... It compiles and uploads fine, but if it means anything, this is what shows up in the log thing after it finished uploading. Quote:
And when I clicked on both of the libraries, it even added these includes into the main AutoLockDoors ino Quote:
I tried driving and it doesn't lock my door. I left it plugged in for my entire 1 hour commute to and from work and it doesn't do anything. What am I doing wrong? Edit: Oh I forgot. I uploaded my entire arduino folder thing as is to github too so in case you want to see if I did something wrong in the filing thing. https://github.com/aznchrisx/frsdoorautolock |
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03-03-2019, 01:57 PM | #76 | |
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The two includes that were added to the ino file should not be required and could cause issues Will try with the arduino ide version you have too see if there are some new things that cause problems |
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03-03-2019, 03:05 PM | #77 |
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Just updated the code online to fix the warnings (did not saw them as the IDE hide them by default :/)
Tested with the 1.8.8 version of the IDE, the differences seems minor Code:
1.8.2 Sketch uses 9530 bytes (29%) of program storage space. Maximum is 32256 bytes. Global variables use 695 bytes (33%) of dynamic memory, leaving 1353 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2048 bytes. Code:
1.8.8 Sketch uses 9562 bytes (29%) of program storage space. Maximum is 32256 bytes. Global variables use 1119 bytes (54%) of dynamic memory, leaving 929 bytes for local variables. Maximum is 2048 bytes. Which OBD shield are you using ? And which Arduino exactly ? I recently buy one for some testings but a "newer" one with the smaller chip (the one in this picture https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Arduino-Uno-...r=424240789688) and I wasn't able to make the code works with it. Seems that the shield I have and this board are not compatible on some hardware level ... The original unit I used is like this one https://www.ebay.fr/itm/UNO-R3-ATmeg...r=472143030750 The other thing you could do for testing is to modify the file Globals.h and uncomment the line 8 Code:
//#define DEBUG_CAN // Comment to turn off debugging messages for CAN Send / Receive Hope this helps I'm sad that it did not work the first time |
03-03-2019, 04:49 PM | #78 | ||
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But I'm using this CAN shield: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And this is my Arduino: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I guess I'm using the one that you said you tested it with and doesn't work. If this doesn't work, I'll order a new Arduino UNO R3 with the long black chip like yours and return this old one. I'm assuming the difference in the boards are only the long black chips. Anything else I should look for? Thank you for your help! Edit: Yeah still didn't work. I ended up purchasing this now. It'll arrive in a day or 2. Hopefully it works. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Last edited by aznchris; 03-04-2019 at 04:11 AM. |
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03-04-2019, 02:24 PM | #79 | |
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Also you can also try something else before waiting for the new arduino. In this file https://github.com/fontaromain/CANHe...CANConnector.h at the line 58 instead of 10 you could write 9. This settings depends on the can bus shield you have and can't be determined automatically by the code, and I totally forgot about it :/ Will add a troubleshooting section in the github ! |
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03-04-2019, 03:45 PM | #80 | |
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I tried to change the "10" to 9 and will test soon. Hopefully it works. Thank you for the help! Edit: Pin 9 still didn't work. ): Hopefully the new board that is coming in today works though! Last edited by aznchris; 03-05-2019 at 05:07 AM. |
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03-05-2019, 07:33 PM | #81 |
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I'm over this tbh. I tried with the new board I got and I don't know why but it wouldn't turn on via the obd2 port if I didn't bend the power pins a little and hold it there. Then it started messing with my instrument gauge lights and my rpms and water temp needles and stuff. Now I don't know why but my gas pedal has a bigger deadzone before it starts moving and when I rev my car in neutral a little it'll drop down to like 500 rpms feel like it's gonna stall or turn off then it by like vibrating a little then it goes back up to 700rpms. Also now I have a permanent U0073 code that I can't clear. There were like 3 other U0073 codes that I cleared, but I can't clear this permanent one.
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03-06-2019, 01:19 PM | #82 | |
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Try disconnecting the battery for some time. The lazy pedal indicates that the ecu resetted itself and is now in learning phase. I really don't understand why it happened, on the french forum other people built it without any issues :/ Keep us updated |
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05-14-2019, 01:46 AM | #83 | |
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They compile and upload fine. But when I plug them into my car, on the Can Bus Shield the "PWR", "TX", and "INT" lights up and on the Arduino there's an "L" led and the "ON" led both light up. Sometimes all the LEDs have an obvious flicker that are in sync with each other and sometimes the flicker is very faint. Sometimes it goes fast then it either slows down or it goes really fast where the lights look like they are solid, but if you look very close it's still flickering. Also I tried plugging in the ISP. I don't know what that is. I don't know if I need it, but it didn't help the situation anyways. Here's some pictures of what I tried putting together. I've tried with only DC power, with only serial port power (not connected to the obd2), and both. No difference besides via USB on my PC. Here's a picture of my hardware [IMG]https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.15752-9/60342133_2215865088675219_4591329501236953088_n.jp g?_nc_cat=110&_nc_oc=AQmpwYq4aeWVKqxhulneZvfw3o4z5 Hl_CdWOvoaMssIL59ubQN0kMmAPklzQKBPtPS8&_nc_ht=scon tent-lax3-1.xx&oh=d1ebcf95ed32a1***dfde06e94417d3c&oe=5D58CC F2[/IMG] |
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