Xander Performance 2013 frs lsx swap

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by DustinS

Is it me, or is that driveshaft not long enough? Looks short

Can second that. Way short unless that yoke is super long.

[Zer0]

@all4spl How long is the yoke? You have a good picture measuring of how much is hanging out. I was just wondering how much is engaged. It looks like a game of just the tip, but pictures can be deceiving.

[all4spl]

haha Thanks guys, I will pull out when i can and measure.

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by all4spl

haha Thanks guys, I will pull out when i can and measure.

Alternatively yoke pushed in all the way you should only have 1/2” (Or less) gap to your rear diff flange.

[all4spl]

update original post with measurements and another clutch master fix.

[Zer0]

Thanks for the update. I like the fitment of this kit. I'm not using the same transmission so I don't know how deep that yoke could go in it just looks like it's out a bit to far, but that's based on me comparing it to my setup on my swap. Found you already confirmed fitment in previous post though. Can't wait to for more updates!

[all4spl]

I'm currently working on the oil relocation kit for the pan. But I also want to start plugging away at the wiring aspect of this. Does anyone have a FRS ECU pinout diagram? I have spend a few hours looking at a service manual but I have a fuel blank spots and it would sure be easier if someone already did the hard work of labeling each pin.

[all4spl]

Here are some slow but decent updates for you guys!
I pulled the entire wiring harness from the engine bay and plan to move it behind the dash. Here is what the driver side wiring looks like.




Here is a picture of the driver side harness done. I also included a DTM connector for my fuel pressure and ethanol content sensor. I also added a bulkhead adapter for the firewall.

Now it's time for the fuse box side. This will take a little more work.



Still a lot of work ahead but I'm waiting for some more wire.

[all4spl]

I also pretty much finished my fuel system. I went with a radium surge tank with a deatschwerks dw400 drop in pump, ran a return line to factory hat for the surge and ran PTFE lines as clean as I could and keep everything in tact.


.5" aluminum sheet for stability of the tank.






Also had my buddies over at MGW send me a shifter for this bad boy.

Here are some updated engine bay pictures showing my Fancy BTR intake manifold. If anyone needs any parts or help, please reach out as I am a dealer for almost anything you need. Especially all of the parts that I have utilized.

[TRS]

Hey man, nice work so far! If you dont mind, I would like to point some things I see on your pics which might be causing some issues in the future:

-As said before, I believe the yoke is not far enough in the tranny. I see a danger of damaging the outbut shaft
-Dont know what size the driveshaft joints are, but since they seem to have the diameter of the OEM diff flange I tend to believe they are smaller then 1330 series, whats too small in my eyes. As well, when using a steel shaft, the diameter of the shaft seems to small to safely manage the rpm at the theoretical top speed a LS3 can make in this car. Depending on rear ratio this is arround 11krpm and up. Even a 100mm steel shaft is not able to handle that as a one piece design. Still, 100mm is more than the tunnel can accept without mods. Only Option is to go 2 piece design, or different material like aluminum or better carbon. (lighter shafts can handle high rpm way better, even if the material itself is less rigid) I also learned this leason the hard way. On the other Hand, the question is if you plan to go that fast. Im living in Germany and for now you can go still as fast as the car is able to. I run into serious issues with my 100mm steel one piece shaft over 250kph.
-The wrapping angeles of the crank pulley and water pump seem very small. This might result in slipping, fast wearing or thrown belt.
-Removing the V bar is, at least cornering performance wise, a highly questionable step in my book. I would highly recommend measures to reinforce the chassis again to regain the lost stiffness. A simple strut tower Bar might not be enough to achieve this.
-Im not sure if the position of the oil filter is good. Never saw one installed horizontal. Sure, will do its Job even in this position, but I could imagine that particles might accumulate on the lower side first. This could result in an unequal pressure load to the filter material which would not be possible in a vertical position. But just theory in this point, not sure about that.

Good luck and keep us updates!

[DarkPira7e]

Originally Posted by TRS

-Removing the V bar is, at least cornering performance wose, a highly questionable step in my book. I would highly recommend measrures to reinforce the chassis again to regain the lost stiffness. A simple strut tower Bar might not be enough to achieve this.
-Im not sure if the position of the oil filter is good. Never saw one installed horizontal.

I just wanted to say here that a lot of factory vehicles use a horizontal oil filter.

I also wanted to say that I drove my car for about 3 years before someone on here gave me their support bars. I added them to my car and did not really notice a different. My car was on 200tw tires and was driven hard fairly often (Not track). I don't have a way of measuring how much it would've added at the limit, but I don't get the impression it would've been much.

I know your feedback was meant to be constructive, I'm not bashing you; just wanted to add my experience

[TRS]

No problem, I dont mind any feedback out of expierience. Giving such a Feedback is the same I do...

The V bar is there for a reason definately. Its a Chassis stiffness feature which can be found on Many subaru chassis of this familly. I have even seen V bars with sliped nuts after hard curb driving, jumps and also light crashes. They definately take some serious force from the strut towers. Still, you can drive the car without them for a long time, no question about that. But it for sure negatively impacts chassis stiffness. Especially with a heavier and more powerfull engine sitting on the Front axle it is nothing I would like to do. I made many measurements and adapters to keep the V bars in my LS swap therefore. I also can imagine that it is hard to fell the difference in road driving, even fast road driving. But you will feel under serious track driving.

With the oil filter, as I said, I might be wrong. Just didnt see this orientation in any installation jet. But as I said, this doesnt mean it is wrong...

Edit: I digged a little into that and found out that the orientation is indeed not decisive. Any orientation is fine. So cancel this point, my bad.

[all4spl]

Thanks guys for your input. I wanted the filter like this for ease of drain and exchange. Instead of oil covering the filter and my hand, now it falls out of the way.

The driveshaft was supplied by sikky. Will change when I do 8.8 diff. Hope it holds for now.

The v brace needed to be removed as they didn't fit the intake. After removing it fit nicely and I removed firewall mount section for additional clearance. May look into strut bar. Def open to feedback and ideas here.

[all4spl]

Originally Posted by TRS

Hey man, nice work so far! If you dont mind, I would like to point some things I see on your pics which might be causing some issues in the future:

-As said before, I believe the yoke is not far enough in the tranny. I see a danger of damaging the outbut shaft
-Dont know what size the driveshaft joints are, but since they seem to have the diameter of the OEM diff flange I tend to believe they are smaller then 1330 series, whats too small in my eyes. As well, when using a steel shaft, the diameter of the shaft seems to small to safely manage the rpm at the theoretical top speed a LS3 can make in this car. Depending on rear ratio this is arround 11krpm and up. Even a 100mm steel shaft is not able to handle that as a one piece design. Still, 100mm is more than the tunnel can accept without mods. Only Option is to go 2 piece design, or different material like aluminum or better carbon. (lighter shafts can handle high rpm way better, even if the material itself is less rigid) I also learned this leason the hard way. On the other Hand, the question is if you plan to go that fast. Im living in Germany and for now you can go still as fast as the car is able to. I run into serious issues with my 100mm steel one piece shaft over 250kph.
-The wrapping angeles of the crank pulley and water pump seem very small. This might result in slipping, fast wearing or thrown belt.
-Removing the V bar is, at least cornering performance wise, a highly questionable step in my book. I would highly recommend measures to reinforce the chassis again to regain the lost stiffness. A simple strut tower Bar might not be enough to achieve this.
-Im not sure if the position of the oil filter is good. Never saw one installed horizontal. Sure, will do its Job even in this position, but I could imagine that particles might accumulate on the lower side first. This could result in an unequal pressure load to the filter material which would not be possible in a vertical position. But just theory in this point, not sure about that.

Good luck and keep us updates!

Feel free to send me an idler bracket for driver side head and ill fix this 😉