Tires for next season?

[knapper]

I currently run the Nexen NFera SUR4G tire on a 17 x 7.5 wheel, and really like the tires a lot, but having 200 treadwear pretty much puts me at the top of my class in AutoX. If I do anything else to the car, like front sway, or shocks, it immediately puts me into the next class.

If I can manage to find a tire that is 240 treadwear, it will allow me to do a front sway, new shocks and several other suspension modifications to help me on the track and AutoX.

Does a really good (sticky) 240 TW tire exist? Or am I stuck with biting the bullet and going up a class? From all the research I have done, I can only find a few in that range that would be suitable for AutoX or track days.

Looking for 225 x 45 x 17.

[Autoxer62]

Based on what I've heard, the Michelin PS 4S sounds like what you're looking for.

[BlueWhelan]

What class are you running?

Are you currently ruining any front camber, and are you allowed to?

If you are able to put more camber into the car and not be bumped up a class, do that instead.

I would also advise (if 200tw is the limit in your class) that you save your money on parts and instead buy the top tier 200tw tires (660/A052). Those will give you far more performance than a sway bar/shocks,etc.


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[RToyo86]

Originally Posted by BlueWhelan

Are you currently ruining any front camber, and are you allowed to?

D street C class is where BRZ/FRS land. It's a competitive class.


Canadian classing is a bit different from US.
This is the sheet both of us would use when figuring out where we sit. 15 modification points, 200tw rubber is 10 points.



And I believe you can run one camber bolt without penalty as it specifies stock adjust range for alignment which is 0.3-1.2° according to factory range.

Edit: rules allow +1 on-top of spec range so -2.3° max.

[strat61caster]

Oof, yeah toss the OE camber bolt in there and get up to the limit, otherwise looks like the 200tw tires are going to be worth every point.

Agree, MPS4S or Conti ECS are the next step down autox tires, nothing else between 200-300tw lights off quick enough to make up for the time lost against the 200tw tires and no way will sways/shocks offset the tire deficiency.

That being said I love this car with front camber, hate it without.
Being competitive < having fun in your car.

[knapper]

Originally Posted by BlueWhelan

What class are you running?

Are you currently ruining any front camber, and are you allowed to?

If you are able to put more camber into the car and not be bumped up a class, do that instead.

I would also advise (if 200tw is the limit in your class) that you save your money on parts and instead buy the top tier 200tw tires (660/A052). Those will give you far more performance than a sway bar/shocks,etc.


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Technically D Street, but as per rules where I am, that puts me in C Class.

As you can see with the above post, that is the base, and with the added points from the tires, it is really hard to do anything worth while. I planned to do shocks (Bilstein B6), lowerings springs, a front sway and bushings just about everywhere I can get at easily. I can do all of that and stay in the same class I am now, if I ditch the 200TW tires...

[knapper]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

And I believe you can run one camber bolt without penalty as it specifies stock adjust range for alignment which is 0.3-1.2° according to factory range.

I ended up throwing the bottom bolt up top, and the SPC on the bottom, it "looks" like I have a little more than -1.0 up front, but it goes in for alignment on Wednesday. I will be asking for maximum possible to stay within spec, but do you know if that stock range has a margin of error as stated in their example?

[RToyo86]

Originally Posted by knapper

I ended up throwing the bottom bolt up top, and the SPC on the bottom, it "looks" like I have a little more than -1.0 up front, but it goes in for alignment on Wednesday. I will be asking for maximum possible to stay within spec, but do you know if that stock range has a margin of error as stated in their example?

I believe the range on the racks goes up to -1.3 which means you can max out at -2.3° as they give you +1 degree without penalty.

Some alignment racks say I have 2° others 2.3°. I would have them max it out and you should sit in that range.

Take note of your wheel/tire gap between the spring perch. Bolts will move the wheel/tire closer to the perch which can be an issue with some offsets and 245 tires.


Edit thread here which shows factory alignment range.
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7918

[knapper]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

I believe the range on the racks goes up to -1.3 which means you can max out at -2.3° as they give you +1 degree without penalty.

Some alignment racks say I have 2° others 2.3°. I would have them max it out and you should sit in that range.

Take note of your wheel gap between the spring perch. Bolts will move the wheel/tire closer to the perch which can be an issue with some offsets and 245 tires.


Edit thread here which shows factory alignment range.
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7918

Perfect, exactly what I was looking for. Thanks! I will aim for -2.0° up front, and around -1.5° in the rear.

[RToyo86]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Oof, yeah toss the OE camber bolt in there and get up to the limit, otherwise looks like the 200tw tires are going to be worth every point.

Agree, MPS4S or Conti ECS are the next step down autox tires, nothing else between 200-300tw lights off quick enough to make up for the time lost against the 200tw tires and no way will sways/shocks offset the tire deficiency.

That being said I love this car with front camber, hate it without.
Being competitive < having fun in your car.

Looking at the rules If I wanted a spec setup I'd probably go 200tw tires 225/45R17, RCE yellows and B6s then max out camber and leave everything else stock.
Or skip the springs and buy 245/255 tires.

[knapper]

Originally Posted by BlueWhelan

I would also advise (if 200tw is the limit in your class) that you save your money on parts and instead buy the top tier 200tw tires (660/A052). Those will give you far more performance than a sway bar/shocks,etc.


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Also, just wanted to add here because many maybe have not heard of them before, but the Nexen N Fera Sur4G is nothing to scoff at. Its a very well known tire in the Miata world and SCCA in general.

Regarding the shocks, they are original in my 2013 and require placement, so that is going to happen no matter what.

[jflogerzi]

SX2's by GT Radial. Super cheap