07-12-2021, 12:21 AM | #57 |
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I installed the 50 degree VTC gear and RSX Type-S oil pump along with a new timing chain tensioner. This went fairly well. I followed the videos I posted with minor differences. Before removing the tensioner or guide, I unbolted the cam gear. I also used an angle grinder cutoff wheel, grinder and flap/sanding discs, and then I hand sanded the edges. I used an allen bolt once I removed the plug.
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07-12-2021, 01:01 AM | #58 |
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As you can see from the last pick, I have the water pump housing from the K20Z3 motor. Unfortunately, I bought a new K20A k20Z1 water pump by mistake, so I returned that. The bolt holes were off by a few millimeters on several holes. The correct one for the K20Z3 is on the way. I cleaned the AC compressor and alternator, but I haven’t mounted them yet. I used an angle grinder to take down the L bracket for the engine mount on the timing chain cover. I am thinking about shaving the Honda logo off the valve cover. I haven’t decided for sure, but I’m leaning that way. I used paint remover to strip the paint in preparation for welding and painting. I found some grey paint. I was going to paint the whole long lock, but I don’t have the means of cleaning all the debris off right now, and not much of it will be visible, so I just painted the timing cover. The valve cover will be VHT wrinkle red. I have new hardware and gaskets for these things, and of course, I have HondaBond.
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07-20-2021, 12:17 AM | #59 |
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I have installed a few more items on the engine. My frontpipe is on the way finally. I’m still waiting on the manifold to buy some other parts. I’ve been working on mounting the FMIC, even without the crash bar. Obviously, the kit hasn’t been released.
I finished my valve cover. I never welded aluminum before, and I’m doing MIG welding. The spool gun is a little different, but it got the job done. I filled the hole in the rear and sanded that down, and then I welded on some -10AN male bungs. I finished the valve cover in VHT wrinkle red. It litterally looks like wrinkled paint like a Shar Pei of paints. It isn’t a crinkle or crumble effect, but the texture looks good, especially from a distance. It didn’t turn out perfectly even, but overall, it saved me $400+, and it looks better than the dirty, silver, valve cover. I’ll add some pics of it assembled later this week.
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07-21-2021, 03:59 PM | #60 |
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Total newb question; why boost a k24 versus a built fa20? Do they handle boost better?
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There's a point at 7,000 RPM... where everything fades. The machine becomes weightless. Just disappears. And all that's left is a body moving through space and time. 7,000 RPM. That's where you meet it. You feel it coming. It creeps up on you, close in your ear. Asks you a question. The only question that matters. Who are you?
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07-21-2021, 05:35 PM | #61 | |
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Quote:
The FA20 handles around 350whp and 275wtq plus or minus. The K24 will do 450whp+, and mildly built K24s will do far better than well built FA20s. So, a FA20 will take a turbo and a build for something the K24 can handle up to a point. The K24 is much easier to service and build. There is far more aftermarket support for it too, especially for NA power. The NA power potential is well explored and easy to attain. The FA24 will close this gap, but not entirely. The biggest hurdle with the boxer motors are access to the heads. Realistically, they need to be pulled or the motor pulled for doing much servicing. There is far less research for NA power on this motor. See below: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21989 There is also the unique factor of having something different. For the vast majority of people for street builds, a mild turbo FA20 is much cheaper than boosting a swap.
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07-21-2021, 06:08 PM | #62 | |
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Quote:
In addition to what @Irace86.2.0 said, the K24 is much lighter (150 lbs?) and revs higher than the FA20. |
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07-21-2021, 06:24 PM | #63 | |
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Quote:
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07-21-2021, 06:43 PM | #64 |
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Where did you source your JDM engine from? There's quite a few in the $1k range on ebay shipped to me. Wish I was closer to an import specialist for this.
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07-21-2021, 07:15 PM | #65 |
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I picked mine up from a Sacramento JDM importer an hour and a half away: North-West JDM Motors. It was a K24A2 from a TSX.
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07-21-2021, 08:06 PM | #66 |
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This is incredibly tempting - just for the improv jazz cool factor. I'm just too old and lazy to try something like that - and I'm NA and pretty easy on the car. It may well go 200k the way I drive it.
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07-22-2021, 10:40 PM | #67 |
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It’s getting sexier. I installed the valve cover, some fancy hardware and the Greddy oil cooler sandwich plate. Clearance is close, but it should work out.
Still waiting on the BlackMarketFab manifold. The odd thing is that they said they would ship it early last week, but I haven’t gotten tracking or a reply from a friendly inquiry earlier this week. I need the manifold to mount everything, so I can order the AN fittings.
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07-23-2021, 03:58 PM | #68 |
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Found this at our local dealership. Very clean. They wouldn’t take a trade. I offered my parents old Accord with 220k, straight up, but they didn’t budget, even though I offered to include the fire extinguisher. Clearly, they don’t know a good deal, even if it slapped them in the face. ‘The 0-60 on that thing is like 25 seconds’, I told them. They didn’t budge. Their loss.
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07-24-2021, 12:32 AM | #69 |
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I made the upper and lower brackets for the FMIC. I will paint the top bracket. There will be two other pieces that extend forward and attach to the crash bar, assuming I ever get that. Clearance to the AC brackets is 1/8” to 1/4”. Should be enough.
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07-24-2021, 03:14 PM | #70 |
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I suggest you create and keep design drawings of all the adaptations you're doing. I have a suspicion you might be able to fund your way through nursing school farming out the fabrication chores and selling kits.
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