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Old 11-24-2020, 09:23 PM   #127
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Originally Posted by luigi02 View Post
Hello. I'm a new owner of 2013 Toyota 86. I'm planning to change my brake calipers to an OEM Subaru 06-07 WRX Brake Calipers. will these fit? Should I change my rotors?
Any reason why your doing it? Just want the looks?

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Old 12-17-2020, 03:02 PM   #128
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Hi All,

I have a MY2013 FR-S with 90k miles. I'm in the midst of a suspension refresh for the car but am looking ahead towards brakes. In addition to pads, my front rotors are slightly warped and will need replacing. The car is a DD first and foremost but sees a lot of use on weekends on back roads and a track day or auto-x session is on my mind come spring. The car is on stock all seasons.

Given this criteria, I was just going to replace the rotors with a new set of OEM rotors and go with the Ferodo DS2500 pads front and rear. I will also be flushing fluid with a higher temp fluid.

Will the OEM rotors suffice given the car is primarily a DD? Are the Ferodo's too much much of an in between pad or do you think the "hybrid" nature of the pad will be up to the task?

Any input is appreciated.
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Old 12-19-2020, 12:26 AM   #129
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Rotors are fine just get centric parts. Cheaper and just as good. Your in the right track with that setup.

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Old 12-19-2020, 06:44 PM   #130
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Will the OEM rotors suffice given the car is primarily a DD? Are the Ferodo's too much much of an in between pad or do you think the "hybrid" nature of the pad will be up to the task?

Any input is appreciated.
Centric high carbon content blanks are what you want. You can get these on rockauto. That's basically what I'd recommend from DD's to full track cars. Why blanks? Because you want as much useful thermal mass as possible. F1 runs blanks for a reason.
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Old 01-31-2021, 01:35 PM   #131
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Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast View Post
Centric high carbon content blanks are what you want. You can get these on rockauto. That's basically what I'd recommend from DD's to full track cars. Why blanks? Because you want as much useful thermal mass as possible. F1 runs blanks for a reason.
High carbon content rotors may reduce the bite, not sure how much increase you’re talking abour, but it is something to consider.
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Old 04-29-2021, 09:40 AM   #132
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Hi guys!
I'm going to upgrade my GT86 ('13) braking system. I'll strictly be using it for the public road (sporty drives in the Adrennes / Eifel / Alps), but I'm looking for a bit more bite to reasure me whilst driving. I'm going to go for the PFC Z-rated pads (and PFC racing brake fluid). These pads are only available for the front. So at the back I intend to stick to the OEM pads (given that the Ferodo semi-racing that my 'performance shop' suggested me might be noisy). Where can I best get these OEM parts, at my Toyota dealer or somewhere online too? Dito for the discs, my 'performance shop' is advising me Zimmermann (294 x 24 mm at the front and 290 x 18 mm), or do you guys think that OEM dics are in this case still the better option?
Thx!
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Old 09-02-2021, 08:05 AM   #133
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Got the discs, fluid and pads and planning on doing the job with a friend on Saturday. Do you guys also always replace the wear indicator? Anything else I should specificaly know or look at for the 86?
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Old 12-14-2021, 05:02 AM   #134
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@JRitt just read your guide on brake pads - in your opinion what would be a good interval for rotating them? I suppose the intervals would differ whether the car is track-only/double duty/street only and between the fronts/rears.
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Old 12-16-2021, 11:53 AM   #135
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@JRitt just read your guide on brake pads - in your opinion what would be a good interval for rotating them? I suppose the intervals would differ whether the car is track-only/double duty/street only and between the fronts/rears.

You just have to do it by need. There is no set interval, and there are too many variables involved to have a set interval. Visually inspect, and always be sure to check the inner pads. If you haven't seen my other guide on track pads, this one has some valuable tidbits for you as well...link below. Thanks!



Essex Track and Racing Pad Owner's Guide
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Old 07-23-2022, 04:33 PM   #136
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On track, do the front and rear brakes typically run at similar temps, or is there enough of a difference to justify different pad compounds?

On my previous track car (MK7 GTI) the rear brakes were practically disconnected, they ran about 300f cooler than the fronts and after 55k miles and 20 track days the rear rotor was only worn about .5mm. I assume on this platform however it is more evenly distributed.

My car will be dailied and see 8-12 track days a year. Since I live in an apartment and don’t have much space to work on my car, ideally what I would like to do is run the same rear pads year round (probably DS2500 or similar) and just swap fronts at the track same day. So my track setup would be DS3.12 front and DS2500 rear. Will be running at most a 245 200tw tire, but likely 225/40/18 street tires for the first 6-10 track days. Feasible? Or do I just suck it up and get to the track earlier to swap both front/rear pads?
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Old 07-23-2022, 07:13 PM   #137
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By my experience rears on average see half the wear the fronts. But still, i wouldn't do staggered pad choice front-rear unless i did lot of research/testing and my non-standard aero downforce setup or non-stock brake bias BBK requires bias shift back. Stock brakes (and most properly designed aftermarket BBKs) have specific brake bias that is close to optimal for our car weight distribution/aero balance, both braking path & braking safety wise. If you happen to still use electronic nannies (such as EBD), i guess they also may expect specific brake bias to be there. Just like how it's better on twins to stick with non-staggered square tire sizing, imho better stick with same pads all around too, as various compounds have various brake friction (even more so, changing differently at different temps) and have various temp operating windows.
I also live in apartment, so i bought some tools to ease switching pads. Like light alu hydraulic jack, electric with accumulators torque wrench to quicken work with lugnuts, adjustable torque wrench to not overtighten lugnuts, rachet with ends for undoing calipers, brake caliper spreading tool, syringe (to remove excess brake fluid if needed), extra brake fluid, wire brush for cleaning, boxes/bag to store all that, brake caliper grease/brake caliper cleaning aerosols, WD40 & kitchen paper towel roll to clean tools and hands .
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Old 07-24-2022, 10:24 PM   #138
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I do 3-4 track events per season. I leave my Carbotech xp8's on the car and take them off over the winter. I have a short commute to work. After work, the squeaking lets my wife know when I pull into my driveway.
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Old 07-27-2022, 09:04 AM   #139
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By my experience rears on average see half the wear the fronts. But still, i wouldn't do staggered pad choice front-rear unless i did lot of research/testing and my non-standard aero downforce setup or non-stock brake bias BBK requires bias shift back. Stock brakes (and most properly designed aftermarket BBKs) have specific brake bias that is close to optimal for our car weight distribution/aero balance, both braking path & braking safety wise. If you happen to still use electronic nannies (such as EBD), i guess they also may expect specific brake bias to be there. Just like how it's better on twins to stick with non-staggered square tire sizing, imho better stick with same pads all around too, as various compounds have various brake friction (even more so, changing differently at different temps) and have various temp operating windows.
I also live in apartment, so i bought some tools to ease switching pads. Like light alu hydraulic jack, electric with accumulators torque wrench to quicken work with lugnuts, adjustable torque wrench to not overtighten lugnuts, rachet with ends for undoing calipers, brake caliper spreading tool, syringe (to remove excess brake fluid if needed), extra brake fluid, wire brush for cleaning, boxes/bag to store all that, brake caliper grease/brake caliper cleaning aerosols, WD40 & kitchen paper towel roll to clean tools and hands .
The problem is that, at least on gen1, there is not much information regarding oem pad material. For Gen2, the setup is staggered with more apparent friction on fronts than on rears, therefore if you run a square aftermarket friction setup, it would move the brake bias 5-10% rearwards
If concerned about electronics, than this should be compensated with staggered friction or calipers.
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Old 07-27-2022, 09:41 AM   #140
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Gen2 brake bias - oem

Calculation for Gen2 distribution with original pads based on public available data for brakes and pads
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