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Old 05-31-2019, 04:43 PM   #15
Fast13FRS
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Originally Posted by humfrz View Post
I'm ah starten ta worry bout you, there, Fast13FRS -


humfrz
Yup me mum too - crap now i'm turning British

I knew these Japanese cars would lead to No Good! Now I have to drive my Range Rover home to the country (shire) and drive my Jag XF to get over it - Wait I am British
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Old 05-31-2019, 07:35 PM   #16
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Yup me mum too - crap now i'm turning British

I knew these Japanese cars would lead to No Good! Now I have to drive my Range Rover home to the country (shire) and drive my Jag XF to get over it - Wait I am British
You and my almost three year old granddaughter. Her favorite TV show is Peppa Pig, a British children's program, so they speak with an British accent. Many of her words and phrases are very British sounding.


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Old 05-31-2019, 11:39 PM   #17
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NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO


That junk is just shoveling the cost forwards and amplifying it.

1: To properly service, nevermind diagnose, an AC system you're going to need a machine to recover what's in the car, a vacuum pump, a refrigerant scale, a set of gauges and an oil injection gun. An AC refilled with junk in a can will never work as well one that's been properly serviced.

2: To properly leak test a system you're going to need some nitrogen at about 200 PSI and a bottle of soapy water or a high sensitivity ultrasonic mic, or if you're unlucky, some AC dye and a UV lamp if it's a really small leak (like I had to find today on a '12 civic)

3: Any workshop that tests incoming cars with a refrigerant identifier will spot the leak sealants in junk like acpro and instead of paying for just a quick leak test and a service, now you'll be paying for a condenser and a complete system flush before any diagnostic gets done. Modern condensers use extremely fine conduits that get clogged by leak sealers.

4: Refrigerant with stop leak in it is considered contaminated and has to be sequestered and destroyed.

5: Most shops with an automatic service machine will refuse to work on something that has stop leak in it because it gums up the solenoid valves.

Would you DIY your fridge? just take it to a shop, the amount of equipment and expertise needed to do this well is not negligible, and the cost of mucking it up yourself can get astronomically high.
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Originally Posted by highway7 View Post
Hello all,


I have a 2013 FRS with about 150k km on the odo, and the AC has stopped working. It was working fine last year during the summer, blew ice cold AC instantly the button is pressed, and now it blows ambient temp.



So far I've checked all fuses, and swapped the horn and AC relays to no effect.



When I press the AC button, the AC compressor does start to spin and both front fans turn on as well. However, there is no cold air regardless of how long I wait nor how fast I'm driving. I've checked all lines and there doesn't appear to be any damage. The exposed part of the condenser in the grille is a little beat up from road debris and bugs, but nothing major.


Any tips?

Please listen to @RZNT4R, a nitrogen purge and leak test is a must to remove contaminants and non-condensables out of the system properly. Then when they add new refrigerant to properly extend the life of the compressor they should add a compressor refrigerant oil as some of it will be removed by a vacuum pumping process.


6 years and 93000 miles is about the time when certain things start to gain leaks and need to be repaired so do it right. If it hasn't been done before using a condenser cleaner like nubrite and replacing the cabin air filter would help a bit when this is properly fixed as well. You wouldn't repair a HVAC system at your house without a professional so don't start here even though it's a smaller scale.
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Old 06-01-2019, 08:48 AM   #18
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I have a slightly similar issue but it only blows cold on the passenger side.
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Old 06-01-2019, 11:47 AM   #19
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I have a slightly similar issue but it only blows cold on the passenger side.
Get it recharged and checked for a leak. An under charged system will often only cool part of the evaporator, resulting in uneven cooling.
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Old 06-01-2019, 02:08 PM   #20
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You and my almost three year old granddaughter. Her favorite TV show is Peppa Pig, a British children's program, so they speak with an British accent. Many of her words and phrases are very British sounding.


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That's awesome I have been told I have the mentality of a 3 year old!
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Old 06-01-2019, 02:17 PM   #21
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That's awesome I have been told I have the mentality of a 3 year old!
What can I say -





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Old 06-02-2019, 08:51 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by highway7 View Post
Hello all,


I have a 2013 FRS with about 150k km on the odo, and the AC has stopped working. It was working fine last year during the summer, blew ice cold AC instantly the button is pressed, and now it blows ambient temp.



So far I've checked all fuses, and swapped the horn and AC relays to no effect.



When I press the AC button, the AC compressor does start to spin and both front fans turn on as well. However, there is no cold air regardless of how long I wait nor how fast I'm driving. I've checked all lines and there doesn't appear to be any damage. The exposed part of the condenser in the grille is a little beat up from road debris and bugs, but nothing major.


Any tips?





When the car goes in to limp mode the AC stops working. Have you checked for any fault codes?
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Old 06-02-2019, 10:21 AM   #23
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When the car goes in to limp mode the AC stops working. Have you checked for any fault codes?
The compressor would not run in an overheat/AC disable condition.

His compressor runs, but no cold comes from it. That usually means a system discharged just enough that the pressure switches let it operate, but greatly reduced refrigeration to the point of total inefficacy.
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Old 06-02-2019, 06:15 PM   #24
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I've experienced an issue a couple of times where my A/C would cut out. It was relatively warm day .. but not too hot.

Situation:

Car was fully warmed up (been driving on the freeway ~15 minutes) and the AC cuts but fan keeps blowing. Nothing is flashing, the AC light is on.
Turning the AC on and off did nothing. I had to restart the car while driving (killed the engine and turned it back on).
I had to do this 2 more times several minutes afterward.

I haven't found out why that has happened.
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Old 06-02-2019, 06:36 PM   #25
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I've experienced an issue a couple of times where my A/C would cut out. It was relatively warm day .. but not too hot.

Situation:

Car was fully warmed up (been driving on the freeway ~15 minutes) and the AC cuts but fan keeps blowing. Nothing is flashing, the AC light is on.
Turning the AC on and off did nothing. I had to restart the car while driving (killed the engine and turned it back on).
I had to do this 2 more times several minutes afterward.

I haven't found out why that has happened.
I suggest you read @RZNT4R 's post. Maybe your system is low on gas -


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Old 06-02-2019, 11:28 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by humfrz View Post
I suggest you read @RZNT4R 's post. Maybe your system is low on gas -


humfrz
This was 2.5 weeks ago, its been working fine ever since.
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Old 06-12-2019, 08:24 PM   #27
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Just wanted to update


Brought my car in to the dealership, paid for an AC recharge


They tested with a dye and also pressure tested prior to recharging with new R134A, no signs of serious leak in the system


AC blows ice cold air instantly now as before and is now working properly
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Old 08-01-2021, 08:43 AM   #28
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Define "cleaning the air conditionner".

Cleaning the air distribution conduits? Cleaning the actual refrigeration system?

Both questions have no clear cut answers. You may not have to clean the air distribution system ever, or you may have to do it often depending on how much and how you use the AC, how often you service the cabin air filter, etc. I don't use my AC very often, and when I do I manually afterblow it to dry the evaporator core to keep funny smells from developing on a wet core left to sit. If you live in a humid climate and stop your car with the AC on full blast, you're basically leaving a big puddle of standing water in your dash that can grow algae or fungi and stink up things. If it ever starts to smell, they sell sprays for that stuff that you can shoot into the ac fan while it runs to kills that stuff and get rid of the smell.

Some makers build in an afterblow function into the AC which keeps the fan running after the car is shut down to dry the evaporator. The twins don't have that, just turn off the AC and keep the fan blowing a minute or two before you reach your destination to avoid the problem.

The refrigeration system can go the life of the car, or it may not. normally, as long as it's sealed and contaminants are kept out it'll work as it should. Even if you spring a leak, as long as you catch it quick and the empty system isn't left to stand in the elements with a hole in it, contaminants shouldn't enter and a simple repair and recharge would be all that's needed to return the system to normal operation. If you've got a nasty situation like a compressor that failed internally, then yeah, the system would need to be flushed and condenser/filter replaced to avoid shrapnel from the old compressor killing the new one.
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