Paint restoration/preservation

[RWD fun]

Hi all, I have a 2013 FR-s in silver that could use a tune-up paint wise. There are scratches on the metal panels, and paint chips on the plastic bumpers. I'll have some time this summer to seriously detail the paint, I'd like to do something more long lasting. The paint is rough to the touch, but not blistered or peeling. My plan is to start with a good foam wash and end with a ceramic coating (there are steps in between). There's also a fairly good size rock dent in the hood, was thinking about bondo+sand, then spraying that one section.

-Can I use a paint pen for some of the missing bumper paint?
-Any advice you can give, I want to do it once, and right
-A good A-Z ceramic kit (Wash, Iron remover, clay bar, etc)
-Your favorite headlight restoration kit (and sealant)

I've been watching videos and have some ideas. I need a kit large enough to detail two cars, that's fairly complete and a reasonable price (better than middle of the road, not top dollar).

I'll have some pics tomorrow

[soundman98]

have you discovered autogeek.net?

everyone's got their preference of brands and processes.

my very generic process goes like this:
wash
clay the entire car, with a clay lubricant(used to use just water, but the result is better with the stupid 'clay lubricant)
analyze the result(how bad is it really?)
usually a compound/polish (my favorite right now is wolfgang's uber compound) for the scratches 'n swirls. it's a very light cutting action compound, and i generally use a polishing pad(on the ccs smartpad scale, i usually use the orange or white). this is probably the hardest part because there is going to be defects that can't be completely removed. so it's a constant fight between one's desire for perfection and reality.

after that, i always follow with wiping down the car with some microfiber cloths to get rid of the dust from the last process, and then coat in my favorite flavor of wax/sealant/ceramic. though honestly, i haven't moved past carnuba waxes yet... natty's paste wax blue is my current flavor...

oh, and i usually just hit the headlights as i'm going around the car with the compound and pad, and then follow up with waxing them. seems to be holding up pretty well...

[humfrz]

Hi ya, RWD fun -

Did you buy the car new?

Here is my suggestions:

* wash the car with liquid dishwashing soap

* clay bar the car

* wax the car

Then see what it looks like.

[RToyo86]

Do you have access to a rotary or dual action polisher with pads? That will vastly improve your results when it comes to correction.

- Wash using a soap with no waxes

- Use a iron remover(example Carpro iron X)

- clay(brand isn't super important if you are polishing)

- compound and polish or just polish

- paint prep to remove oils and polish residue (example Carpro eraser or a Diluted IPA solution)

- coating. (Carpro Cquartz UK 3.0 is very user friendly, 2-3 years lifespan)


I like to use menzerna 2500 cutting polish. It's a DAT abrasive polish, Info here. Sonax perfect finish is nice too.

[RWD fun]

See below, accidental double post.

[RWD fun]

I really want to pop these dents out. I figure the door panel is a goner and hood will need bondo.



The hood



Passenger door



Driver side rear wheel well



Driver side rear quarter panel



Driver side door



Driver side fender

[RWD fun]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

Do you have access to a rotary or dual action polisher with pads? That will vastly improve your results when it comes to correction.

- Wash using a soap with no waxes

- Use a iron remover(example Carpro iron X)

- clay(brand isn't super important if you are polishing)

- compound and polish or just polish

- paint prep to remove oils and polish residue (example Carpro eraser or a Diluted IPA solution)

- coating. (Carpro Cquartz UK 3.0 is very user friendly, 2-3 years lifespan)


I like to use menzerna 2500 cutting polish. It's a DAT abrasive polish, Info here. Sonax perfect finish is nice too.

I have my trusty DeWalt impact and drill. I think the drill may be a good choice because it can run at low speeds. Any favorite soap? I've got bugs dried into paint. I should probably purchase a clear bra while I'm at it.

[RWD fun]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Hi ya, RWD fun -

Did you buy the car new?

New, new to me, same difference . The interior is in great shape, The title is clean and the body is straight. The car was only 6k with a clean title, I'll be doing a fair amount of work this summer, mostly normal maintenance.

[RToyo86]

I would call a paintless dent repair specialist first. I'm sure they could get most of that out. The hood looks to be missing paint. But straightening metal will take less filler to address.

Originally Posted by RWD fun

I have my trusty DeWalt impact and drill. I think the drill may be a good choice because it can run at low speeds. Any favorite soap? I've got bugs dried into paint. I should probably purchase a clear bra while I'm at it.

A drill isn't ideal, but you can probably make it work. It will be harder to keep the pad straight. With the correct backing plate and pads it's usable. It would be exhausting to do an entire car with a small pad.

For store bought soap meguiars gold class is my go to. Bug and tar remover to get rid of bugs. If the bumper is in good company condition a clear bra is a good option. If it's beat up and sandblasted, I wouldn't bother unless you wanted it professionally refinished.

[ls1ac]

Get an inexpensive random orbital polisher. Do not use any polish that is not clearcoat safe.


By the time you get all those dents fixed it may be cheaper to paint the whole car rather than blending in the parts painted. Body shop paint will be thicker than OEM.

Then think about spending on bra.


Do check with PDR guy first then a paint shop before starting on your own repairs.


Do go ahead and clean and clay bar to help get a feel for what you are working with.


After all is done then think about ceramic coat. Not cheap if done correctly.




edit: drill will leave swirl marks.

[humfrz]

OK, with the pictures, I see that those imperfections aren't going to "buff out".

Yep, just go with the above suggestions.

[RWD fun]

Originally Posted by humfrz

OK, with the pictures, I see that those imperfections aren't going to "buff out".

Yep, just go with the above suggestions.

If you're standing far enough away and squinting, the car looks perfect. And you're also not looking at the driver's side.

[RWD fun]

Before I begin:

Step 1) check with a PDR specialist. I'll consider doing it myself, I generally have good luck with these things.

Step 2) buy orbital sander


My budget for materials is ~$200 excluding dent removal. I'm sure I can make something work.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by RWD fun

I have my trusty DeWalt impact and drill. I think the drill may be a good choice because it can run at low speeds.

you misunderstand the process. a drill does not have the torque required. you also don't want low speed. but you don't want extremely high speed either.

buffing technique is about speed, pressure, and movement/angle. varying any of those things by any amount will change the final product.

paint is like thick clay. it can be moved, shifted, or melted. always start at low speed, with low pressure, and move perpendicular across the damaged area, or across the same area in opposing sweeps to minimize pushing paint that's not needed.

higher speed moves paint faster across a larger area while also working faster, where higher pressure increases friction which moves a larger quantity of paint. it's important to understand you can always do more later, but applying too much speed or pressure can cause mistakes that aren't reversible with a buffer.

Originally Posted by RWD fun

Before I begin:

Step 1) check with a PDR specialist. I'll consider doing it myself, I generally have good luck with these things.

you won't with this. paintless dent repair is voodoo wrapped in witchcraft, embedded in layers of finesse. i've watched the guys do it, sometimes over the course of hours, sometimes they'll explain what they're doing and how as they do it. i understand all the tools and techniques they use. i even have a couple. but all i've ever managed is to make an 'inny' an 'outy'.

Originally Posted by RWD fun

Step 2) buy orbital sander

no. a sander is not the same as a buffer. at the very least, go to harbor freight for their $80 dual action polisher. but then you still need pads, compound, clay, lubricant, microfiber towels, and wax. basically, you're going to blow through your $200 budget before even getting started.

if $200 is your hard limit, seriously consider talking to a detail shop. some of them will likely have paint correction packages for less than that. the real cost here is the tools and materials to get started.