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Cosmetic Modification (Interior/Exterior/Lighting) Discussions about cosmetic mods.


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Old 09-25-2019, 11:05 PM   #15
Mr_Eyo
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Mr Eyo, I did see your post, but when I originally was looking at it the google drive didn't work. I am on my pc now and it opened fine. IDK what I'm even looking at.

The diagram is not written out like standard automotive wiring diagrams which is what I work with. It honestly seems overly complicated to me, but you can't argue with success.

What led you to this set up?
It's my own custom circuit. I wanted the system to behave using the XOR logic I stated in my post. No relays used, just solid state switches. I tapped 2 lines on each side (headlight 12v and turn signal 12v) off of each headlight harness and ran those to my circuit module. Then I ran custom sidemarkers lines out and abandoned the OEM sidemarker harness in place. I grounded the circuit using a ground in the driver's side floor.

I could maybe markup the wiring schematic for you, but I think it would span a few pages.
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Old 09-25-2019, 11:26 PM   #16
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Very interesting. If my idea proves undoable I would certainly consider doing it your way to get the effect I want. How much did the parts cost?
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Old 09-25-2019, 11:40 PM   #17
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i've been writing this out for a while now, and while i understand what you're doing, and how it works.. i see now that it should work.

but it's extremely inefficient and is going to take a bunch of wire, and a ton of time to get everything connected to those points, many of which are very much not exposed, and will take a lot of time to get to.

here is a much simpler solution that hits all the same points, and uses the existing ignition 2 circuit that already powers the turn signal, but requires hacking up a flasher module, and running only 1 pair of external wires to interrupt the marker light power.



and i would recommend using these to interrupt the marker light, which would make this modification 100% reversible if used in the right sequence.

https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Discon...7&s=hi&sr=1-27

you could also use those same connectors at the flasher module, which would make this easily reversible throughout with only 3 physical connections to be connected/disconnected.

edit: forgot to add-- using 2 small relay's like this, you should be able to fit it into the flasher relay can without making 'warts' on it, which would make for a compact and easy to use assembly. of course, as long as your soldering skills are up to it.
https://www.goldmine-elec-products.c...?number=G23833
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Old 09-26-2019, 12:32 AM   #18
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My soldering skills are garbage. I don't solder anything.

Most of my electrical connections are done with solid (not split) metal tube butt connectors with a sealing heat shrink. Spades and whatnot where needed, like when connecting to relay. Everything is hardwired unless a component is meant to be removed. In the event of removal of this lighting stuff, I would simply repair the harness.


The image you sent appears to have all the relay pins connect to all the same circuits as mine, with an exception where you have specified a switched power source. However, comparing your and my wiring diagrams it's evident I showed I would be running more wires than I actually would be. My intention was to make most connections near the flasher assembly.

There will only be 4 wires running through the bulkhead(to/from each side marker). The rest will be done at/near flasher assembly. I'm not too concerned with the amount of time it takes. I can't imagine wiring in a couple relays will be too time consuming. I have the benefit of the lift in my shop to aid in getting under the car for the marker light circuit access.
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Old 09-26-2019, 12:59 AM   #19
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Yes, its the same circuit. My original misunderstanding was in the switched ground layout. Being a HV electrician and having a majority of my automotive wiring dealing with switched positives, the original diagram threw me some.
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Old 09-26-2019, 12:08 PM   #20
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Well this is good news. I will have to report back with how long everything takes and whatnot.
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Old 09-26-2019, 02:27 PM   #21
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My soldering skills are garbage. I don't solder anything.
Soldering is WAY easier with flux. It helps the solder "flow" evenly. I always use flux.

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Old 09-26-2019, 03:53 PM   #22
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Your solution looks like it'll work just fine, but like other have stated it's a bit overdone. This is most effectively done with a logic board.

Think of it this way: You're trying to do the exact same thing that trailer light adapters do. Cut into a solid signal when a turn signal is provided, and return to that signal once the turn is deactivated.

So, why not use one of those trailer adapters that have the logic circuit built-in already? Hook the 'brake' input up to the running light source, 'turn' inputs to the turn signal sources. Grounds to grounds as usual, and viola, running lights that switch to turns when used. Just like a trailer's brake lights.

Edit: Like this, just hook your running lights to the 'stop' input https://www.zoro.com/buyers-products...03/i/G9111459/
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Old 09-26-2019, 04:27 PM   #23
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Your solution looks like it'll work just fine, but like other have stated it's a bit overdone. This is most effectively done with a logic board.

Think of it this way: You're trying to do the exact same thing that trailer light adapters do. Cut into a solid signal when a turn signal is provided, and return to that signal once the turn is deactivated.

So, why not use one of those trailer adapters that have the logic circuit built-in already? Hook the 'brake' input up to the running light source, 'turn' inputs to the turn signal sources. Grounds to grounds as usual, and viola, running lights that switch to turns when used. Just like a trailer's brake lights.

Edit: Like this, just hook your running lights to the 'stop' input https://www.zoro.com/buyers-products...03/i/G9111459/
Use a trailer light converter? That's damn clever. It's less complicated than creating my own logic stuff, which I really don't get into in my work so not something I want to do.

This would also keep everything in the engine bay and prevent me from having to dig into interior electronics.

I think I might just do it this way. Thanks for the suggestion!
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Old 09-26-2019, 08:37 PM   #24
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Very interesting. If my idea proves undoable I would certainly consider doing it your way to get the effect I want. How much did the parts cost?
I honestly don't remember. It wasn't optimized layout wise, so I spent twice I should have on enclosure and potting materials. My guess is about $100.
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Old 06-07-2020, 01:13 PM   #25
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I want my (JDM clear) side markers to function like they do outside of North America - just as turn signals. Alternatively, it would be cool to have switch back LEDs and have the side markers work as parking lights when parking lights/low beams are on and work as turn signal when turn signal/hazards lights are activated but this would be a lot more complicated as I imagine.

As OP mentioned, one critical feature was missing in the original thread - the side markers blink in sync with the turn signal. Is there a simple DIY to make this happen? Can I just cut the + wire and tap it into the turn signal in the head light? I think that's what I did for my JDM side markers for my RSX way back in the day.

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Old 06-15-2020, 05:19 PM   #26
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Someone was kind enough to post a video showing how the side markers work outside North America:
. It appears that the side markers function ONLY as turn signals.

I own a 2017 USDM BRZ. To convert my side markers to be only turn signals and have them blink IN-SYNC with the front and rear turn signals (goal is to have them work the same as the JDM side markers), can I just do the following:

  1. Cut the + wire into the side marker
  2. Connect the side marker's + wire to a new wire (what AWG wire should I get?) using a wire connector
  3. Run the new wire into the engine bay and t-tap it into the turn signal in the headlight

Also, since my 2017 BRZ has LED front turn signal, does that mean I can run 194 LED bulbs in my side markers and they won't hyper flash? Or will I still need to run incandescent bulbs to prevent hyperflashing?

I'd really appreciation some guidance or confirmation of my steps before cutting any wires in my car. Thanks guys!

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Old 06-15-2020, 06:24 PM   #27
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I want my (JDM clear) side markers to function like they do outside of North America - just as turn signals. Alternatively, it would be cool to have switch back LEDs and have the side markers work as parking lights when parking lights/low beams are on and work as turn signal when turn signal/hazards lights are activated but this would be a lot more complicated as I imagine.

As OP mentioned, one critical feature was missing in the original thread - the side markers blink in sync with the turn signal. Is there a simple DIY to make this happen? Can I just cut the + wire and tap it into the turn signal in the head light? I think that's what I did for my JDM side markers for my RSX way back in the day.
Did you read the whole thread? We ironed it all out with the trailer converter idea. Why won't that work for you?
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Old 06-16-2020, 12:06 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by sharpsicle View Post
Your solution looks like it'll work just fine, but like other have stated it's a bit overdone. This is most effectively done with a logic board.

Think of it this way: You're trying to do the exact same thing that trailer light adapters do. Cut into a solid signal when a turn signal is provided, and return to that signal once the turn is deactivated.

So, why not use one of those trailer adapters that have the logic circuit built-in already? Hook the 'brake' input up to the running light source, 'turn' inputs to the turn signal sources. Grounds to grounds as usual, and viola, running lights that switch to turns when used. Just like a trailer's brake lights.

Edit: Like this, just hook your running lights to the 'stop' input https://www.zoro.com/buyers-products...03/i/G9111459/

That’s very smart!
Has anyone used it for this purpose? Any DIY for newbies?
Would love to do it.

Thanks


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