Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[riboyster]

You guys are getting off topic...

[Xero-Limit]

Originally Posted by ajcarson11

As is mine. Mike's volume of work goes up and down at times. Mike did get me squared away, but also let me know what to expect in terms of response time. 48 hours might be practical when there isn't much going on, but I could understand a week or more during peak times.

See post #10 here:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80701

Thanks, our volume does vary but there are other things at work that we may not have control over as well (family, health, holidays etc...)

Phil is always here and he can direct when there is a more critical issue (i.e. car not starting) and we attend to it as fast as we can. There are also internet complications like email not getting through, or a followup flag getting lost between the 3 different computers we use to keep workflow going. We emphasize that people need to CALL when you don't get a response back through email after a while. Also, one BIG thing is that we have no way to assess your hardware or installation. But for some reason the tune is always the first thing to get blamed. If someone provides incorrect hardware information, has leaks in the plumbing, kit has specs that change from the last one we did, or has some other issue...we have no control over that. And if we provide a tune within 48 hours (our job is tuning, not remote troubleshooting) that does not mean we can address everyone's issues in the same timeframe. We are not entirely without fault because we do miss emails here and there, but we have historically provided advice and hardware support at no charge. However this should not be an expectation. If a customer cannot do their own install--then it needs to go to a shop and then they can get tuned there if they'd like. Or they can have the shop work with us. But it is unrealistic to always get a response about issues not related to our products or services. Forums and FB groups are great for those resources.

Another point we want to stress is most people save up for a while to get a FI kit, then wait for it to get to them, but then they expect the tune immediately. BUY THE TUNE FIRST! This allows us to schedule workflow and get you the tune ahead of time, then we know how many revisions we may have to do at a given time.

...now back on topic

[brybot]

Originally Posted by ajcarson11

As is mine. Mike's volume of work goes up and down at times. Mike did get me squared away, but also let me know what to expect in terms of response time. 48 hours might be practical when there isn't much going on, but I could understand a week or more during peak times.

See post #10 here:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=80701

Thanks for the link. Moto East has something similar on their support site or blog... I can't find it again for some reason.

I'm significantly less worried about tuning than I am why my car doesn't run however. I'll update here once I know.

[riboyster]

Originally Posted by brybot

Thanks for the link. Moto East has something similar on their support site or blog... I can't find it again for some reason.

I'm significantly less worried about tuning than I am why my car doesn't run however. I'll update here once I know.

Maybe you could log an attempted start? Not sure if it's possible, but it'd probably give you a hint.

[ajcarson11]

Originally Posted by brybot

Hey guys, wanted to describe my situation more and see if anyone knows any remaining options I might have.

I installed the Sprintex 210 on my car last week, along with the Moto East Flex Fuel kit and 3" Perrin Big MAF CAI. The car was tuned with Moto East and I installed the ECUTek tune before starting it the 4 or 5 times last week. I also did a Perrin lightweight crank pulley, which I had problems with aligning correctly. Each time I started the car with the perrin pulley on, it had a decent wobble to it, even though I did align the pin. The car was extremely close to empty at that point. I left town for Christmas and there the car sat.

Got back last night, installed the stock crank pulley, and everything seemed to align properly, but the car wouldn't start. It cranks but does not turn over. I thought this was because it was out of fuel, so I put some E85 in it. I made sure the fuel pump primed a few times, power to the fuel pump was reconnected, and the fuel gauge was showing half a tank or so. Car still won't start. Disconnected the fuel lines right behind the injectors, both had some E85 in it. Still no start. Moto East saying it can't be the tune. I tend to agree with them not because I know a thing about tuning, but because it started last week with the tune on it.

Two local shops (Dallas) won't work on it, so it's being towed to a third who said they would.

If this shop can't help me, I truly don't know what to do aside from removing the flex fuel kit, trying again, then removing the blower, and trying again. After that it'd go to the dealer.

Anyone have any ideas?

My first idea: Disconnect one of the fuel rail connecting lines, stick a rag or bucket up around the fuel line, and turn on accessory mode (do not start car). You should hear the tank pump prime, and fuel should come out onto the rag. That'll at least let us know that fuel is getting into the rail. From there i'd make sure it is fairly warm in the area where you are attempting to start the car. Low temps with E85 can mean it takes several cranks to get going (especially if the tune is new).

You're pretty sure that all wiring is plugged back in, and that you've got the bolts all secured on everything (including the ECU mount)?

Just thinking outside the box here... My initial thought would be that it may take a while to get cold start going on E85.

[brybot]

Originally Posted by ajcarson11

My first idea: Disconnect one of the fuel rail connecting lines, stick a rag or bucket up around the fuel line, and turn on accessory mode (do not start car). You should hear the tank pump prime, and fuel should come out onto the rag. That'll at least let us know that fuel is getting into the rail. From there i'd make sure it is fairly warm in the area where you are attempting to start the car. Low temps with E85 can mean it takes several cranks to get going (especially if the tune is new).

You're pretty sure that all wiring is plugged back in, and that you've got the bolts all secured on everything (including the ECU mount)?

Just thinking outside the box here... My initial thought would be that it may take a while to get cold start going on E85.

I really appreciate the attention here sir. I actually did confirm there was E85 in the lines after this started, so it shouldn't be fuel related.

Unfortunately it's been 60 - 80 F here, so temp can't be the issue.

I had the car towed to a shop, which refused to work on it due to the SC, then had it towed to a specialty shop which has been looking at it since. Still no word on what the issue is. Will update once it's confirmed.

[ajcarson11]

Originally Posted by brybot

I really appreciate the attention here sir. I actually did confirm there was E85 in the lines after this started, so it shouldn't be fuel related.

Unfortunately it's been 60 - 80 F here, so temp can't be the issue.

I had the car towed to a shop, which refused to work on it due to the SC, then had it towed to a specialty shop which has been looking at it since. Still no word on what the issue is. Will update once it's confirmed.

That's a bummer... Would seem like it must be something simple. Good luck!

[riboyster]

Fuel air electricity.
Gotta be something upstream of your plugs.

[chargedup]

Copy/pasted from fb. Sry.
Ok. So some weird shit has been going on as of late. my SC maf bolt broke off a while ago so it's just plugged in and not too secure. I also have a boost tap on the maf that is capped off as my gauge took a shit. Car has always had the variable idle issue, and snapped the bolt holding a speed sensor on when putting my hub back together. Took to dealer to get rekeyed and now it's idling at 600 constantly and is in safe/limp mode. Usually I could reset the CEL and it would rev past 4K, but now to no avail. So throwing P0500 and U0073. Neither of which will clear completely and will come back. Car also will die randomly occasionally. Before I took it in I had a steering angle sensor code that turned off trac, airbags, and ABS after installing my wheel- but that's not showing now. Any ideas what I can do to get her running right?
Mods: Sprintex SC, Perrin intake, keys racing wheel, coils, catback, etc. PFA

[ATL BRZ]

Originally Posted by chargedup

Any ideas what I can do to get her running right?

Get a better tune from @moto-mike

[riboyster]

Fuck the tune. Work on priority problems first, starting with ignition so you don't blow your motor. Then move down to things that will void your safety.

The tune can come last, you won't break your car in limp.

[Spartarus]

Originally Posted by riboyster

Fuck the tune. Work on priority problems first, starting with ignition so you don't blow your motor. Then move down to things that will void your safety.

The tune can come last, you won't break your car in limp.

...EDIT: little too sarcastic... Little too mean...

That is a dangerously incorrect statement.

Originally Posted by chargedup

Copy/pasted from fb. Sry.
Ok. So some weird shit has been going on as of late. my SC maf bolt broke off a while ago so it's just plugged in and not too secure. I also have a boost tap on the maf that is capped off as my gauge took a shit

Clarification: MAP, not MAF, sensor.

Originally Posted by chargedup

throwing P0500 and U0073.

P0500: Vehicle speed sensor. What did you do with the ABS sensor after you broke the bolt?
U0073: CAN BUS off. This usually comes up when plugging in or unplugging an OBDII device while the car is running.

... I have a feeling that is going to turn into a fairly long troubleshooting process.

[riboyster]

Originally Posted by Spartarus

...EDIT: little too sarcastic... Little too mean...

That is a dangerously incorrect statement.

No mean intentions
He's just a long way from dealing with the tune. Also you're right about it being dangerously incorrect. Just assuming he doesn't go balls to the wall on the throttle with a botched car.

[nmastereal]

Originally Posted by chargedup

Copy/pasted from fb. Sry.
Ok. So some weird shit has been going on as of late. my SC maf bolt broke off a while ago so it's just plugged in and not too secure. I also have a boost tap on the maf that is capped off as my gauge took a shit. Car has always had the variable idle issue, and snapped the bolt holding a speed sensor on when putting my hub back together. Took to dealer to get rekeyed and now it's idling at 600 constantly and is in safe/limp mode. Usually I could reset the CEL and it would rev past 4K, but now to no avail. So throwing P0500 and U0073. Neither of which will clear completely and will come back. Car also will die randomly occasionally. Before I took it in I had a steering angle sensor code that turned off trac, airbags, and ABS after installing my wheel- but that's not showing now. Any ideas what I can do to get her running right?
Mods: Sprintex SC, Perrin intake, keys racing wheel, coils, catback, etc. PFA

If you broke your speed sensor when putting your hub back together, check the speed sensor and the tone ring on the back of the hub. You cannot drive the car with one of those 2 being broken or misaligned.

What does, taking it to the dealer to get rekeyed, have anything to do with your issues? I assume for rekey you meant to get new key fobs?

I would look at your clearly fudged up map plate or your abs sensor and tone ring.