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Old 01-25-2021, 10:21 PM   #29
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Well, you wouldnít ever be able to install the heads backwards seeing how your cam sprockets need to be towards the front of the engine, but I suppose it MIGHT be possible to swap the heads from passengerís side to driverís side, but I highly doubt that Subaru would engineer that possibility into the design. I.E. the bolt patterns simply wouldnít allow for that to be possible and you would be using the intake ports as exhaust ports and vice versa. You probably wouldnít even be able to bolt the intake and exhaust manifolds on in that case. Someone with experience pulling these engines and heads here should be able to verify this as I have not had to do this personally.

Youíre getting flames shooting out the intake like itís trying to fire on the exhaust stroke. Thatís the classic symptom with a distributor-style ignition system when the distributor is rotated 180 degrees out of sync or the wires are connected to the cap in the wrong order. Perhaps youíve got your intake and exhaust cam sensors swapped? Iím running out of ideas.

Yeah good point itís very impossible because the way the bolts on head are lined up haha anyways. I just wish that I was the guy that installed his timing chain incorrectly and is swearing he did it right so I could have this figured out😭😭
Iím definitely pretty stumped 🤦🏽*♂️
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Old 01-25-2021, 10:26 PM   #30
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I did find this little article here:
https://www.armstrongfamilyblog.com/...relation-p0018
mentioning having to replace the ECU after certain cam sprocket repairs, but we all know that these ECU's can be reflashed to an updated cal ID so that would save you from having to buy a new ECU. The only thing with this article is that it doesn't mention the problem of not starting or running, only running poorly and idling rough.
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Old 01-25-2021, 10:31 PM   #31
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Do you have any tuning suites or logging programs so that you can post some logging data during cranking that might give some of our other experts here an idea of what might be going on?
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Old 01-25-2021, 11:54 PM   #32
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Do you have any tuning suites or logging programs so that you can post some logging data during cranking that might give some of our other experts here an idea of what might be going on?
That is a very interesting article. As you said it doesnít mention anything about the car not running... Iíd say the only thing that might be different in my situation is I broke both intake and exhaust Ocv on driver side of engine. Not sure Thatd make a difference but thereís that. Unfortunately I have no type of tuning softwares. Iím almost considering it.
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Old 01-26-2021, 01:33 AM   #33
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That is a very interesting article. As you said it doesnít mention anything about the car not running... Iíd say the only thing that might be different in my situation is I broke both intake and exhaust Ocv on driver side of engine. Not sure Thatd make a difference but thereís that. Unfortunately I have no type of tuning softwares. Iím almost considering it.

I've actually replaced all four of my OCV solenoids as I found that one of them was leaking oil out from the connector terminals. There are different versions of these solenoids depending upon year of the vehicle and some have been upgraded to address the oil leaking issues. Different existing part numbers are replaced with different new part numbers. There is TSB from Subaru on this which you can Google that has a chart to help identify the old part numbers and subsequent replacement part numbers for each of the identified groups of model years.

However, I need to tell you that when replaced mine with the updated parts, I was not required to do anything different in the way of programming in a different CAL ID ROM. The new oil control valve solenoids just worked out of the box.

When you broke them, could you have possibly shorted out the harness side of the plug pins possibly doing damage to the ECU or hopefully just confusing it? If you suspect that might be the case, what you could try first is to disconnect the negative cable from your battery and then short that negative cable to the positive terminal to drain any static voltage that may remain, then reconnect the negative terminal to the battery and try starting it again. This may help to reset the ECU and possibly get it firing in the proper sequence again. This may not help, but it won't hurt to try.

As for logging, there are several choices available. Personally, since I'm doing all of my flashing at home and getting remote tuning done, I'm using EcuTek to log, but this requires a substantial investment.
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Old 01-26-2021, 09:11 PM   #34
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is it possible the dowel fell out and you installed the reluctor wheel in the wrong orientation? That would cause the engine to fire at the wrong time.
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Old 01-26-2021, 09:20 PM   #35
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I've actually replaced all four of my OCV solenoids as I found that one of them was leaking oil out from the connector terminals. There are different versions of these solenoids depending upon year of the vehicle and some have been upgraded to address the oil leaking issues. Different existing part numbers are replaced with different new part numbers. There is TSB from Subaru on this which you can Google that has a chart to help identify the old part numbers and subsequent replacement part numbers for each of the identified groups of model years.

However, I need to tell you that when replaced mine with the updated parts, I was not required to do anything different in the way of programming in a different CAL ID ROM. The new oil control valve solenoids just worked out of the box.

When you broke them, could you have possibly shorted out the harness side of the plug pins possibly doing damage to the ECU or hopefully just confusing it? If you suspect that might be the case, what you could try first is to disconnect the negative cable from your battery and then short that negative cable to the positive terminal to drain any static voltage that may remain, then reconnect the negative terminal to the battery and try starting it again. This may help to reset the ECU and possibly get it firing in the proper sequence again. This may not help, but it won't hurt to try.

As for logging, there are several choices available. Personally, since I'm doing all of my flashing at home and getting remote tuning done, I'm using EcuTek to log, but this requires a substantial investment.
I can definitely give it a shot. Unfortunately im at a shit point in my life and canít afford to get it at this moment. Iíll definitely get it figured out soon haha
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Old 01-26-2021, 09:21 PM   #36
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is it possible the dowel fell out and you installed the reluctor wheel in the wrong orientation? That would cause the engine to fire at the wrong time.
The reluctor wheel is definitely in right position. As far as dowel.... not 100% sure if there was one in there! But gosh itís been awhile since Iíve had engine out. I know I had the dot on flywheel lined up with the dowel and stuff for sure... would reluctor wheel spin freely if it wasnít in there?
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Old 01-26-2021, 09:37 PM   #37
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the dowel is just there to keep it aligned until the flex plate/flywheel is bolted up. But, if the dowel is missing it could have moved while you were installing the flex plate.
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Old 01-26-2021, 10:59 PM   #38
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the dowel is just there to keep it aligned until the flex plate/flywheel is bolted up. But, if the dowel is missing it could have moved while you were installing the flex plate.
Crap man, itís been so long since Iíve had the engine out. Iím honestly debating on pulling it to make sure I lined it up correctly. I honestly feel like I installed it correctly. I paid extreme attention to detail and lining everything up seems very straight forward like you almost canít mess it up unless youíre not paying attention but Iím running out of options 😪
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