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Old 01-18-2021, 06:07 PM   #57
Mike_ZN6
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I recently picked up a used set of OEM black door levers from @tehShirt. They are still in perfect condition.

I did not like the original chrome door handles. I don't think there should be any chrome on the interior. It is strange that Toyota/Subaru decided to only put chrome on the door levers and the the parking brake button.

The install was actually not too bad. I thought it was going to be more difficult to disconnect the levers and locks than it was. The whole process took about an hour. I followed this video to take off the door panels:




I did not disconnect any of the electrical wiring. You can remove the door levers from the door panel with the panel still connected to the car. I used a cardboard box to rest the door panel on while I worked on the levers.

I think the black levers look good. Definitely worth it to get rid of the chrome. Now I just need to figure out how to get rid of the chrome on the parking brake button. I think my only options are the Perrin Drift Button or to try and paint the OEM one.



















Last edited by Mike_ZN6; 01-18-2021 at 06:17 PM.
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Old 01-19-2021, 03:25 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_ZN6 View Post
I recently picked up a used set of OEM black door levers from @tehShirt. They are still in perfect condition.

I did not like the original chrome door handles. I don't think there should be any chrome on the interior. It is strange that Toyota/Subaru decided to only put chrome on the door levers and the the parking brake button.

The install was actually not too bad. I thought it was going to be more difficult to disconnect the levers and locks than it was. The whole process took about an hour. I followed this video to take off the door panels:




I did not disconnect any of the electrical wiring. You can remove the door levers from the door panel with the panel still connected to the car. I used a cardboard box to rest the door panel on while I worked on the levers.

I think the black levers look good. Definitely worth it to get rid of the chrome. Now I just need to figure out how to get rid of the chrome on the parking brake button. I think my only options are the Perrin Drift Button or to try and paint the OEM one.

They look great in your car! Thanks again for buying them.


My 2014 Forester has a black ebrake button... I don't think you can buy them separately from the handle. It wouldn't be too hard to design/3D print a stock inspired button if the drift button isn't your cup of tea.
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Old 01-22-2021, 07:07 AM   #59
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@Mike_ZN6 can I ask what kit you have on your 86? looks great and awesome TE37's.
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Old 01-22-2021, 09:44 AM   #60
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@Mike_ZN6 can I ask what kit you have on your 86? looks great and awesome TE37's.

Thank you!

The car is basically a stock FR-S/pre-facelift 86 on the exterior. I changed the emblems to Toyota, swapped the fender garnishes to ones from a 2017+ BRZ, and added the 3DCarbon Five:AD style rear spoiler. No aftermarket bumper or lip or anything. I think the car looks best in this form without all the extra stuff like giant wings and side skirts tacked on.
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Old 02-14-2021, 08:32 PM   #61
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After having the Verus throttle pedal spacer on the car for a few weeks, I readjusted the clutch pedal height. With the throttle pedal in a higher position, it made the clutch feel too low with how I had it adjusted. I raised the clutch pedal up a few mm higher and the engagement point feels like it is in a better position in relation to the throttle pedal now.

I have had the pedal positions setup like this long enough for it to feel normal now. You need to be slightly more deliberate when you move to engage either the brake or gas pedal individually because they are in very similar positions now. The Verus piece definitely makes heel-toeing easier. You can just twist your foot slightly and press both the brake and the throttle pedal comfortably. This setup (Verus pedal spacer and clutch pedal adjustment) makes all the pedals feel even in height and the whole pedal box feels more natural.
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Old 02-14-2021, 08:47 PM   #62
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The JDL 4-2-1 header and 2.5" overpipe finally arrived. These were ordered Black Friday weekend and they just showed up a few days ago.

The craftsmanship of the headers is exceptional. The welds look really nice. I picked the bronze thermal coating and the finish looks great. They did show up with one minor blemish in the coating, but I don't think it is worth doing anything about.

Unfortunately, it is going to be a month or two before I can get these put on. I am moving in a few weeks and that will be consuming my time for a while. I also need to pickup an EcuTek license/programming kit and find a tuner.

Here are the unboxing pics for the header and overpipe:


























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Old 02-20-2021, 03:50 PM   #63
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The custom headlights showed up today. These are OEM FR-S headlights with the housings painted matte black. The ring around the projectors and the DRL/high beam reflectors were left chrome. The projectors are upgraded to Morimoto M LED 2.0 units.

A used set of headlights was used to build these, and there are scratches/debris damage in the lenses. More than I could see in the pics when I green lighted them. I am going to have to get them polished/buffed before I install them.

I think they came out nice, though. They will look great on the car once they are cleaned up. I am going to have to upgrade all the lights on the car to 6000k Cool White LEDs to match the new projectors!


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Old 02-25-2021, 11:09 PM   #64
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Please show the output shots once installed. I am currently installing morimoto mini h1s in my headlights. Do you know if the installer used a mounting bracket to install them? Thanks!
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Old 02-26-2021, 07:58 AM   #65
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Please show the output shots once installed. I am currently installing morimoto mini h1s in my headlights. Do you know if the installer used a mounting bracket to install them? Thanks!

I believe they built a custom mounting bracket for the Morimoto LEDs.
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Old 04-19-2021, 09:12 PM   #66
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I finally managed to get the headlights installed. It has been an ordeal. The lights were built from a used set of FR-S headlights that were supposed to be "clean". When the lights showed up they had quite a few chips on the lenses. I ended up sending them back to have some new lenses swapped on.

Once I got the headlights installed and wired up, I was getting some strange behavior from the lights and I kept blowing a fuse for the DRLs. I had a couple of issues to sort through. The first problem was I had the polarity reversed on one of the Morimoto connectors. I have no idea why Morimoto would design their connectors so that you could even plug them together backwards.

Eventually, I determined the headlight wiring harnesses were also a problem. The Morimoto M LED 2.0 units can also function as a high beam, so the guy that built the lights spliced a wire into the harnesses to connect the high beams to the Morimoto ballasts. He did not know the DRL/high beam is the same bulb on the FR-S so there is current on that wire when the high beams are not activated. I replaced the modified harnesses with some OEM harnesses and everything started working correctly.

I am really happy with how the headlights came out. They look really good in my opinion. They look like they could be OEM. The light output from the Morimoto M LED 2.0s is wild. They are easily the brightest headlights I have seen. You can literally see the cutoff line they create on the night horizon.



















This is where I installed the Morimoto relay. I mounted it directly to a hole in the frame.








I tried to make the wiring as clean as possible. The Morimoto ballasts (and LED DRL/High Beam ballasts) are 3m taped to the fender liners.














Here you can see the cutoff for the Morimoto M LED 2.0 projectors.




These are the modified headlight wiring harneses that were causing the issue.


Last edited by Mike_ZN6; 04-19-2021 at 11:28 PM.
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Old 04-19-2021, 09:36 PM   #67
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A local shop sold me some LED bulbs to replace my OEM DRL/high beam bulbs. I was hoping to match the color temperature of the new Morimoto LEDs I just installed.

The LED DRL/high beams came with a PWM module that the shop owner assured me would allow the bulb to function as both DRL and high beam. When I got them installed, I realized they are at 100% intensity even in DRL mode. I am essentially driving around with my brights on all the time when the running lights are active.





I ordered a set of LEDs/PWM modules from Xenon Depot that actually function properly. They dim the LEDs to 12% output for DRL mode. I will have to swap them out as soon as they show up.
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Old 04-19-2021, 09:49 PM   #68
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Now that I have the headlights on, I am going to direct my focus to the JDL 4-2-1 header. I am still debating whether or not to wrap it.

Before I get the header installed, I want to get a baseline dyno on a Dynojet dyno. The only place I know around here that has a Dynojet is Mach V, so it looks like I will be heading over there in the next few weeks.
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Old 04-20-2021, 03:42 AM   #69
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Better wrap it if you are not doing any ceramic coating.

The DEI stuff is really good. Not much smell on the first heat cycles. And it doesn't itch that much, only a little.
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Old 04-20-2021, 08:55 AM   #70
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Love those headlights!!! Looks really mean
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