KPower Industries K24 swap

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

The color coded plug they send/show is wrong.

The way the relay side is pinned has the blue wire next to the black wire, not the gray wire as indicated on the plug they provide. I moved the pin over on the pigtail side since I could easily do it outside of the car.

Still doesn't prime/run the pump.

Rotated to match perspective:



Pin moved:

I noticed the same thing but made sure it was pinned correctly to the relay they sent. Just like you it still wasn't working.



Funny enough they didn't even send me the color marked connector just the relay and pigtail.



Even weirder, they sistered my red wire at the connector and not at the relay. Shouldn't effect how it functions but interesting they aren't staying consistent on execution.


Only thing left at this point is to wait and see if there is more to it they just forgot to mention. It's frustrating that what should be a 5 minute swap out has wasted most of my day.

[captain awesome]

So if you pull up the new edited instructions the pinout looks completely different than what they provide. OR my color blindness is more problematic than usual. I would like to try swapping the black wire loop from one side to the green and red but afraid I might fry something.

[RedReplicant]

I think the issue is with the ECU control over the blue wire, which is supposed to be signal to the relay. This comes from the stock ECU on pin 19.

Basing this on five minutes with a multimeter.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

I think the issue is with the ECU control over the blue wire, which is supposed to be signal to the relay. This comes from the stock ECU on pin 19.

Basing this on five minutes with a multimeter.

I agree. I’m assuming there is a new tune that ships with kits that takes advantage of this.

[captain awesome]

I'm still new to wiring stuff but doesn't the relay need a ground to function? As it's currently wired there isn't a ground from what I can tell unless the Light Blue wire from the Fuel Pump ECU was supposed to be ground instead of signal since the smaller red wire is powering the relay? But like mentioned above it goes to pin 19 at the ECM plug, which clearly isn't grounding as configured.

So am I taking crazy pills?

From what I'm reading it doesn't really matter if ground is at 85 or 86 on the relay unless it has an integrated diode, but typically I think it should be on 85. So pin 85 should be a ground. I think. And it's not right now.

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

I'm still new to wiring stuff but doesn't the relay need a ground to function? As it's currently wired there isn't a ground from what I can tell unless the Light Blue wire from the Fuel Pump ECU was supposed to be ground instead of signal since the smaller red wire is powering the relay? But like mentioned above it goes to pin 19 at the ECM plug, which clearly isn't grounding as configured.

So am I taking crazy pills?

From what I'm reading it doesn't really matter if ground is at 85 or 86 on the relay unless it has an integrated diode, but typically I think it should be on 85. So pin 85 should be a ground. I think. And it's not right now.

DPOs switch to ground when activated, so the light blue wire is what serves as ground to trigger the relay. The 12v input is already there from the little jumper wire from the big red wire.

If you stick a multimeter between the blue wire and ground, set it to ohms, go to the fuel pump page in Haltech, and recycle the ECU you can see it setting the output to active for the 5s prime but the blue wire stays open rather than showing continuity to ground.

[Irace86.2.0]

I just called, and they are working on figuring out what the issue is with the relays. I asked if it is a Haltech setting. They said they are looking into it, and going to contact anyone who has purchased those if they need to replace them, so without getting into specifics because they don't have an answer yet, they are working on it.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

I just called, and they are working on figuring out what the issue is with the relays. I asked if it is a Haltech setting. They said they are looking into it, and going to contact anyone who has purchased those if they need to replace them, so without getting into specifics because they don't have an answer yet, they are working on it.

I imagine it has to be a simple fix if they actually got it working on another swap and went through the trouble to edit the instructions for it.

[RedReplicant]

I'm going to pull the Haltech, adapter harness, and adapter board out of the car today since this will doubtlessly require a repin of something.

I also want to document what Haltech pin goes to which plug/pin on the 86 side.

[captain awesome]

I've been chatting via email back and forth with Kpower. I have sent some screen shots of fuel pump settings in Haltech and they have confirmed it's allcorrect. Everything looks to be pinned correctly for us at the fuel pump ECU, so now I'm being patched in with a fellow from Haltech to possibly help sort out why we aren't getting signal from the Light Blue wire. It may require a remote connection to verify the map settings are all configured correctly. Not sure how it will pan out but I'll keep you guys/gals posted.

[RedReplicant]

Time for fun

DPO 5 is Haltech 34 pin (larger) connector pin 24. Green with orange stripe since KPower didn't follow the standard Haltech wiring colors. Pin follows through to the same location on the adapter board

[RedReplicant]

My findings are that we're getting new adapter boards if they want to make this right without depinning these wires from each harness side.

There is no continuity from the engine harness side of the adapter board for the fuel pump signal pin to any other pin on the haltech side of the adapter board.

edit: called kpower and he said i'm wrong, oh well, whatever.

[captain awesome]

The Haltech gentleman confirmed it's not the map/tune. He requested I check continuity from the wire to the Haltech ECU. The Kpower adapter board is where everything stops talking like it should. Basically this confirms RedReplicant's findings. From what we gather mine is a v1 board and his is a v2. Not sure at what point they made revisions or what the revisions included but current info has been sent to Kpower to marinate and decide next steps.

[moosefro]

I've only received the updated fuel relay in my kit. the car won't start and the fuel rail is empty. Is there a way to bypass the relay so it works like it used to?
The original engine let go 800 miles from home so i don't get to work on it often. I was really hoping to get it home over the long weekend.