Codes P0011, P0016, P0018, P0021

[SamCon7]

Hey guys,
I have read a bunch of the forums but this is my first time writing one, so hello!
I drive a 2015 FRS with just under 50k miles and recently replaced my clutch. I could tell my old one was going because I lacked acceleration and could tell it was starting to slip, so I installed a new ACT clutch. After I put the car back together, I started it and got the following codes, P0011, P0016, P0018, P0021. The car will not idle for longer than 2 minutes and while taking it around the block for a test drive, the car shuts off and cuts the engine when I slow down and rpms drop below 1k (basically the car can not hold an idle).
I took it to dealer a few weeks ago and they said it might need new oil control values and have to do with the timing chain. I am taking it to a tuning shop in a few days for a second opinion. Was wondering is anyone on here has experienced these issue or had any suggestions?
I have read so many forums and webpages and some say I need to replace the ECU and all of the items I stated and it still might not fix the issue. At this point I am just lost. Hope someone can help. Thanks in advance

[DAEMANO]

Originally Posted by SamCon7

Hey guys,
I have read a bunch of the forums but this is my first time writing one, so hello!
I drive a 2015 FRS and recently replaced my clutch. I could tell my old one was going because I lacked acceleration and could tell it was starting to slip, so I installed a new ACT clutch. After I put the car back together, I started it and got the following codes, P0011, P0016, P0018, P0021. The car will not idle for longer than 2 minutes and while taking it around the block for a test drive, the car shuts off and cuts the engine when I slow down and rpms drop below 1k (basically the car can not hold an idle).
I took it to dealer a few weeks ago and they said it might need new oil control values and have to do with the timing chain. I am taking it to a tuning shop in a few days for a second opinion. Was wondering is anyone on here has experienced these issue or had any suggestions?
I have read so many forums and webpages and some say I need to replace the ECU and all of the items I stated and it still might not fix the issue. At this point I am just lost. Hope someone can help. Thanks in advance

Yep, the dealer will go through the RCA process (which can take a longish amount of time.) OCVs may be replaced, ECU might also need to be replaced to clear the trouble codes that need a ridiculously long time to clear from your stock ECU. If your tuner shop does the work, my advice would be to skip straight to changing the oil, checking and replacing the OCVs (where needed), checking the timing chain (if needed), and replacing the ECU. Order the parts in advance and knock it out in a day or two. Otherwise the process can draaaag.

[SamCon7]

Originally Posted by DAEMANO

Yep, the dealer will go through the RCA process (which can take a longish amount of time.) OCVs may be replaced, ECU might also need to be replaced to clear the trouble codes that need a ridiculously long time to clear from your stock ECU. If your tuner shop does the work, my advice would be to skip straight to changing the oil, checking and replacing the OCVs (where needed), checking the timing chain (if needed), and replacing the ECU. Order the parts in advance and knock it out in a day or two. Otherwise the process can draaaag.

I also did just replace the oil 2 weeks before I replaced the clutch. It was a little low when I replaced the oil as well fyi

[TommyW]

Start with the oil control valves.it doesn’t take much for them to get clogged

[Kiske]

Since it is both banks I wouldn't start with the OVC's for diag. All of them won't likely go out at once. If this happened while doing a clutch this is where you need to start your search. I'd start with the reluctor wheel. It works with both crank and cam sensors. It is the big wheel behind the clutch assembly. Make sure it is aligned properly on the pin and the correct direction. Once your past making sure you didn't botch up the installation/wiring then I'd move towards the front of the engine. Start with a good scan tool and watch the VVT sensors while you have another person drive. Are they all pegged at 0 or are they all moving in a similar fashion?

You don't do the ecu until the last steps, if the problem still isn't fixed or if needed.

[DAEMANO]

Originally Posted by SamCon7

I also did just replace the oil 2 weeks before I replaced the clutch. It was a little low when I replaced the oil as well fyi

Sadly, the low oil situation could have caused your ECU to go into that dumb long fault process.