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Old 07-14-2020, 02:58 AM   #15
Immaculate Fury
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So that's what I've been doing wrong lol.
You know what's interesting though? I just replaced the TOB last week and the old one I pulled out... was the revised one. And it only lasted 25k kilometers. Something else must have been wrong with it before I got it. Or I wore it out way ahead of time. And I think it was because of the clutch adjustment mod I found on this forum. I now am in the firm belief that the clutch pedal travel should not at all be adjusted. So when I put the trans back in I adjusted the clutch as per this video:



I used to have big trouble getting into most gears. Doing what this guy says fixed most of my problems
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Old 07-14-2020, 07:37 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Immaculate Fury View Post
You know what's interesting though? I just replaced the TOB last week and the old one I pulled out... was the revised one. And it only lasted 25k kilometers. Something else must have been wrong with it before I got it. Or I wore it out way ahead of time. And I think it was because of the clutch adjustment mod I found on this forum. I now am in the firm belief that the clutch pedal travel should not at all be adjusted. So when I put the trans back in I adjusted the clutch as per this video:



I used to have big trouble getting into most gears. Doing what this guy says fixed most of my problems

If you have trouble going into gears then the pedal probably is indeed too low. I lowered mine but not quite as much as the DIY shows. It’s probably 4-6mm above the brake, not flush with it. 40k miles later and I have no problems besides the original TOB wearing out in the expected time frame.
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Old 07-14-2020, 12:02 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Immaculate Fury View Post
You know what's interesting though? I just replaced the TOB last week and the old one I pulled out... was the revised one. And it only lasted 25k kilometers. Something else must have been wrong with it before I got it. Or I wore it out way ahead of time. And I think it was because of the clutch adjustment mod I found on this forum. I now am in the firm belief that the clutch pedal travel should not at all be adjusted. So when I put the trans back in I adjusted the clutch as per this video:



I used to have big trouble getting into most gears. Doing what this guy says fixed most of my problems
Hah I had the same thought as you and raised my clutch adjustment two days ago! It's now around 12-13mm above the brake pedal. I have noticed smoother shifts into 2nd. My guess is that's because the clutch is releasing slightly sooner in the pedal stroke, which allows the flywheel speed to drop more between shifts and helps with shift timing. But I could see the clutch height adjustment affecting the TOB as well. In any event, I think I'm going to leave it like this.

Stinks to hear your revised TOB died so early though. While my trans was apart, I had the shop throw in the Verus forged clutch fork and pivot. If the stock fork flexes as much as Verus indicates, I could see that also contributing to TOB failure.

As an update, I'm at 320 miles on the Exedy stage 1 and lwfw. Really loving this setup. It's exactly like I think a stage 1 (or OEM+ setup) should be.
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Old 07-14-2020, 08:30 PM   #18
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If you have the know how to pack the sealed bearings. I'd repack the bearing or "top off" with some Honda high temp urea grease. Otherwise just used the urea grease in the areas you can get to.

Not saying its gonna make it last, but its what I did. The last bearing, old version, looks fine but the bearings wear rattling inside and definitely bone dry inside.
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Old 07-14-2020, 09:35 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by DarkSunrise View Post
Stinks to hear your revised TOB died so early though. While my trans was apart, I had the shop throw in the Verus forged clutch fork and pivot. If the stock fork flexes as much as Verus indicates, I could see that also contributing to TOB failure.

As an update, I'm at 320 miles on the Exedy stage 1 and lwfw. Really loving this setup. It's exactly like I think a stage 1 (or OEM+ setup) should be.
I also put the exedy stage 1 in as well and Verus fork and pivot. I had the exact same thinking as you in the fact that if it actually flexes as much as they say then it's definitely worth replacing. Cheap insurance. The stage one is great too. I'll have to stick a boroscope in my transmission to see how the synchros are doing next time I do a trans fluid change. See if there's any left because even though my car shifts and drives way quieter and easier, it still will grind, notch, and clunk into every gear
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Old 07-15-2020, 12:48 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Immaculate Fury View Post
I also put the exedy stage 1 in as well and Verus fork and pivot. I had the exact same thinking as you in the fact that if it actually flexes as much as they say then it's definitely worth replacing. Cheap insurance. The stage one is great too. I'll have to stick a boroscope in my transmission to see how the synchros are doing next time I do a trans fluid change. See if there's any left because even though my car shifts and drives way quieter and easier, it still will grind, notch, and clunk into every gear
As an experiment, try clutching in a hair earlier on shifts while keeping all your other movements the same (or even slowing down your shift action slightly). When I do that all my shifts are super smooth driving around town. It feels slightly odd shifting like that (almost feels like there's a fraction of overlap between the throttle and clutch), but the notchiness completely disappears for me.

Also if it makes you feel better, I've heard a transmission specialist say that it would take a substantial amount of gear grinding to meaningfully wear your transmission. I wouldn't worry too much about that unless you're really grinding constantly.
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Old 07-15-2020, 03:23 PM   #21
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First what have you done for mods?
Second how or where have you been driving?
Third did you put a competition setup in and then expect it to be easy on the street? The more aggressive the clutch the harder to start smoothly. This will often lead a driver to try to slip the clutch longer when shifting or starting. This will heat the clutch. Have you ever smelled a burnt order? A lighter flywheel will also make starting a little more difficult. It also sounds like you are getting clutch chatter. Sometimes this is a buildup or over heated flywheel and pressure plate. When you get into the clutch rebuild look for blue patches.
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A side note, I have seen many "good drivers" sit at a light with the clutch pressed not knowing that this will heat up the throw-out bearing and shorten the life.
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Old 07-16-2020, 09:02 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Immaculate Fury View Post
You know what's interesting though? I just replaced the TOB last week and the old one I pulled out... was the revised one. And it only lasted 25k kilometers. Something else must have been wrong with it before I got it. Or I wore it out way ahead of time. And I think it was because of the clutch adjustment mod I found on this forum. I now am in the firm belief that the clutch pedal travel should not at all be adjusted. So when I put the trans back in I adjusted the clutch as per this video:



I used to have big trouble getting into most gears. Doing what this guy says fixed most of my problems
That video was pretty helpful. About a year ago I also made an adjustment to the pedal and while it seemed ok at first it seems to have gone downhill since then. I’ll try adjusting it back and see if that helps at all.

The throw out bearing still continues to be an issue for me, so I think a replacement is inevitable.
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Old 07-18-2020, 08:48 AM   #23
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If you're having trouble with your TOB starting to go have it changed at your earliest convenience. In my line of work I've seen lots of bearings go and when they start to go, they go quickly.

One thing to make sure of too is to purge your brake fluid for your clutch cylinders. Flush it out completely to help improve the consistency of the pedal and make gears easier to grab, especially with the clutch pedal properly adjusted like in the video. That's what worked for me.

Unfortunately, whatever condition I bought the vehicle in has seemed to worn the synchros down considerably, as well as taking out the revised TOB. I just ordered a new transmission and the Synchrotech carbon synchros that I'm going to install in the new unit and rebuild it. Gonna be awesome!
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Old 07-18-2020, 12:16 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Immaculate Fury View Post
If you're having trouble with your TOB starting to go have it changed at your earliest convenience. In my line of work I've seen lots of bearings go and when they start to go, they go quickly.

One thing to make sure of too is to purge your brake fluid for your clutch cylinders. Flush it out completely to help improve the consistency of the pedal and make gears easier to grab, especially with the clutch pedal properly adjusted like in the video. That's what worked for me.

Unfortunately, whatever condition I bought the vehicle in has seemed to worn the synchros down considerably, as well as taking out the revised TOB. I just ordered a new transmission and the Synchrotech carbon synchros that I'm going to install in the new unit and rebuild it. Gonna be awesome!
The twins have dedicated clutch fluid that is separate from the brake fluid.
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Old 07-18-2020, 04:09 PM   #25
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The twins have dedicated clutch fluid that is separate from the brake fluid.
Oh, I reckon he knows that -

Maybe he should have left out the word "brake" when referring to the clutch fluid -
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Old 07-18-2020, 08:05 PM   #26
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Oh, I reckon he knows that -

Maybe he should have left out the word "brake" when referring to the clutch fluid -
Oh I guess brake fluid and clutch fluid are the same anyways.
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Old 07-27-2020, 10:36 AM   #27
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Has anyone tried the SKF bearing N4111? Seems to be the same part according to Rock Auto.
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Old 07-27-2020, 01:53 PM   #28
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What I did was go to my local Toyota dealer and ask for part SU00307349. This is the new TOB and is cheaper through them. I think it cost me $40 CAD So probably $30 USD
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