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11-18-2021, 01:33 PM | #1 |
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Engine blocks oil pan mounting broke
So for starters my car is boosted, im sure it plays a role in this situation, so I wanted to get that out there. The car is on 90.3k miles and ive been boosted for 30k. I daily the car but I dont drive crazy but rather baby the car. Here is the issue though, I began to leak oil all around my oil pan as of recent so I was replacing the sealant. No problem right? Well I didnt know this up until now, but a friend of mine who helped me boost my car was the one who put my oil pan on initially. But what happened was that he used a non oem bolt that wasn't the same thread pitch and dethreaded the area for where it mounts.
So as I carry on to installing the new sealant, I am now having to tap into the area where the bolt mounts, and I make attempt to rethread the m6 threads back but that failed as the bolt is still not even catching thread. So the last thing I can but didn't want to do was move to an m7. I do this successfully but when the m7 started to go in about 1/2 way in, the mounting area snaps off the block exposing the bolt in the oil pan area. I will include pictures as reference to where im talking about. Any advice on what should happen? I've talked to a few friends who have built motors about this, and they all say to put the bolts back in since they still thread and require torque. And if that were to fail and leak oil, to put a locking nut on the opposite end and do the same. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk |
11-18-2021, 01:42 PM | #2 |
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So it was an ear that broke off? Does the bolt pass through a flange on the block side? Using a nut/bolt combo is the answer if that's the case.
The correct way to do this would have been to drill and re-tap to 7mm. Looks like you just rammed a bolt in which of course bound up and broke the ear Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk |
11-18-2021, 01:48 PM | #3 |
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If you had to break one then it was a good choice. If there is space throw a nut and washer on there and call it a day.
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11-18-2021, 02:34 PM | #4 |
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I did re tap the threads to an m7 as I mentioned above, but the ear still broke off. It threads in fine like the other oem bolts as it currently sits and there is no play, but I just wanted to gather input from others as this had me extremely bummed after messing with this for a day.
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11-18-2021, 11:58 PM | #5 |
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It's internal, so a nut would need to be REALLY well captivated. If it was mine, I'd do a helicoil. Get an m6 kit and practice on a block of aluminum first.
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11-19-2021, 01:25 AM | #6 | |
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11-19-2021, 01:29 AM | #7 | |
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11-19-2021, 01:39 AM | #8 |
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You'll have to read up on them, and figure out if the tap drill for the kit is big enough for the major diameter of the female threads. At a minimum you can learn from this experience and consider them in the future.
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11-19-2021, 02:20 AM | #9 | |
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11-19-2021, 09:00 AM | #10 | |
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I totally agree that helicoil is the way to go now.
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11-19-2021, 11:08 AM | #11 | |
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11-19-2021, 11:14 AM | #12 | |
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If the pan is sealed to the block outside the ear then it shouldn't leak... Wait, is the bolt hole now exposed to the oil? You might have to use a "sealing washer" if that's the case. Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk |
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11-19-2021, 02:24 PM | #13 | |
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I was going to focus putting a little bit more sealant around that bolt area and then using a jack and a piece of wood to add a little bit more tension to ensure the sealant is making full contact with the bottom side of the block. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk |
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11-19-2021, 02:41 PM | #14 | |
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