MT issues when stopped

[jeepmor]

This one took a long time to resolve, but I finally did it.

I had the clutch assembly opened up again since it never really shifted correctly in 1,2 and R. Long story short, the Verus clutch fork is the root cause. It just isn't the OEM model and it didn't hold the proper clearances the OEM fork does. On the upside, I'm at 110k, and they found a rear main leak so changed that seal while it was open. Nice!

Also, the new OEM throwout bearings still have issues. The mechanic showed it to me, and it had this red dust layer. That's rusty bearings not getting enough of their grease is what he told me. So to hell with the updated OEM throwout bearings, it was on it's way out again. I had the Exedy that came with the Southbend stage 2 clutch put in. It was still in the unopened bag. Glad I saved it or another OEM throwout bearing would have been put back in.

This fix also took care of all my wheel hop herkie jerkies at parking lot speed I've been battling with bushing upgrades. The car needs them with the supercharger, but the bunk fork really brought on most the problems. I can barely get the car to do it now where I could barely help it before. So good to have a final fix on that.

I like Verus parts, but will not recommend their BRZ/FRS clutch fork whatsoever. It's an expensive and laborious mistake to fix. Performance shop who I had do the work states they seen the issue several times.

I was pretty chapped about the shop that did the work thinking they slipped the fork using it as a handle installing. But they didn't, the Verus part was just shit. The original shop did sloppy work elsewhere and lost my business, but they did not screw this one up, I did with the Verus clutch fork.

[soundman98]

which part of the verus fork is sloppy?

i just find it odd this is the first time i'm hearing of any issue with it. it's not like there's many other options for clutch forks.

[EndlessAzure]

Hate to break it to you, but the Exedy-kit TOBs are often the same ones as OEM

[radroach]

@EndlessAzure they may be the same, but you don't have a guarantee that you have the updated bearing. You might get a clutch kit from pre-2017, like I did back in 2015 at 55k miles and that bearing was only good for another 55k miles.

[radroach]

It's sad to hear that the verus fork didn't work out for you. It was something I've been looking towards getting.

But it makes me wonder if if you had done your clutch adjustment correctly. I know I've raised it like 50 times in the thread before, but anyway. I've found that a small quarter-turn of the clutch adjustment makes all the difference when you've got the clearance set super close. And I've found that its not always the same, and sometimes I have to re-adjust it every few months or seasonal change or after a hard drive.

[EndlessAzure]

Originally Posted by radroach

@EndlessAzure they may be the same, but you don't have a guarantee that you have the updated bearing. You might get a clutch kit from pre-2017, like I did back in 2015 at 55k miles and that bearing was only good for another 55k miles.

That's true and it's easy to check. The updated bearings have a different tab shape and a white paint dot.


Though the OP's lamentation in general was application of any OEM TOB. Just letting him know that it's likely that, if the TOB was provided as part of an Exedy kit, it's going to be an OEM TOB (either the old or revised version)

[blsfrs]

I have a Verus fork in my 13 FRS. Because the fork is much thicker than the stock, I had to modify the dust boot so the fork would move freely. I also installed a small return spring to eliminate the slight squeak of the TOB/CRB/CTB rubbing the clutch fingers.

[FrickingReallySlow]

btw you could always get the new OEM fork that's on the 2023 Gen2s. 30531AA220 supersedes all the pervious versions

[soundman98]

is there anything different about the gen 2 fork?

[jeepmor]

I had the clutch opened back up and I was told my Verus clutch fork was the issue. My clutch was never entirely disengaged which caused my standing still shifting issues. It was bad in 1,2,R when still, but didn't grind, just wouldn't engage. I ran 30k like this thinking it was normal after a clutch change, then tried a performance shop.

They replaced my Verus fork with an OEM fork and also the pivot and it's back to normal. They stated they have seen it before with the same Verus part. Now it's fixed. I discuss elsewhere on the finer points of the self adjusting clutch these things have and the clearances. And get finger wagged by a Karen, but such is life. Look past that if you dig.

Fork changed, problem resolved. Yet the Verus fans insist the install wasn't correct install somehow while not being able to say what even could have gone wrong on install. Performance shop stated nothing was dorked on previous install when they pulled it apart. I asked some pointed questions. They handed me the Verus fork and a prematurely worn subi TOB (TSB approved) with rust signature, not grease. Ran itself dry already, system was just too tight semi-engaging the clutch fingers all the time.

Conclusion, OEM fixed it, something was wrong with the fork. Can't play the worn parts excuse on a part that's too tight on a different clutch when OEM swap fixes it. But it also means, the fork is probably still good and needs more pocket work. Or I got the worst tolerance spec range stack on my car's clutch assembly somehow that a stock fork fixed.