Need feedback on JRZ RS Double vs JRZ RS1 vs Tein SRC

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Apex-Apex

I'm still trying to figure this out myself. It's been a few track days but I think I'm getting closer.

Just have ken set up your car, if he can manage to not spin out

Or I can do it.

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by dp1

Of those of you who use(d) JRZ RC1 TWO, what springs and what settings do you use track vs street, out of 14 clicks for compression and 24 clicks for rebound? I don't know if JRZ gives starting recommendations.


For example - made up values you can copy/paste/edit:
Front springs (~500lb/ft or 9kg/mm) + Rear springs (~600 lb/ft or 11 kg/mm)
Sway Bars (front stock 18mm + rear stock 14mm)
Street Front (-12 clicks from full hard compression and -15 clicks from full hard rebound)
Street Rear (-12 c / -15 r)
Rough Track Front (-9 c / -12 r)
Rough Track Rear (-9 c / -12 r)
Smooth Track Front (-8 c / -10 r)
Smooth Track Rear (-8 c / -10 r)


I understand that rough surface at Sebring would benefit from different settings than a brand new and smooth surface at Watkins Glen for example, but I don't yet know which settings I should start with. I have more to read up on, from resources shared by @CSG Mike and web pages like http://www.renntrack.com/forums/show...e-As-requested, https://rideapart.com/articles/suspe...ession-damping, http://www.hyperracing.com/pages/tec...y_no_more.aspx, etc.


Please PM me if you prefer to keep private, thank you.

On my adjustable setups (motorcycle and car), I start with the adjusters in the middle, spend some time getting comfortable, then analyze what the car is doing that I want to correct from there.

[Apex-Apex]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Just have ken set up your car, if he can manage to not spin out

Or I can do it.

Ken will die. We'll be at Buttonwillow on 5/28.

[CSG Mike]

@dp1, @enivid has also gone from Ohlins to JRZ. He may able to shed some light...

[dp1]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

@dp1, @enivid has also gone from Ohlins to JRZ. He may able to shed some light...

Thanks! I've been in touch with @enivid and he's been kind to shed light. Much respect for his TT experience and happy for his lower lap times with JRZs

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by dp1

Thanks! I've been in touch with @enivid and he's been kind to shed light. Much respect for his TT experience and happy for his lower lap times with JRZs

He's been playing with the adjustments, but even with everything out of whack, he was STILL 2 seconds faster than his best time on the Ohlins.

His latest lap time is 6 seconds faster than his best on the Ohlins, on a 100 second lap.

He's also on the same 9k/11k that we got for you, which did have a bit of a learning curve from the understeery biased Ohlins.

[dp1]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

He's been playing with the adjustments, but even with everything out of whack, he was STILL 2 seconds faster than his best time on the Ohlins.

His latest lap time is 6 seconds faster than his best on the Ohlins, on a 100 second lap.

He's also on the same 9k/11k that we got for you, which did have a bit of a learning curve from the understeery biased Ohlins.

Thanks...good times...bye bye comfy understeer...I can see busy hands (in the corners) in my future

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by dp1

Thanks...good times...bye bye comfy understeer...I can see busy hands (in the corners) in my future

Quick hands, quick driver.

[enivid]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

@dp1, @enivid has also gone from Ohlins to JRZ. He may able to shed some light...

We're 50 emails deep already. He's my new best friend.

[dp1]

Recommended settings for JRZ RS double adjustable dampers, out of 14 clicks for compression and 24 clicks for rebound.

These settings from JRZ USA are the starting points for 9k (~500lb) front and 11k (~600lb) rear springs, so ask your vendor or JRZ USA how to go about fine tuning from here on. I bought these through CSG and they gave me recommendations for initial settings (not the same as below) and instructions on how to adjust from baselines based on observed behavior.

First go full clockwise to full soft, then go counterclockwise to the first groove/click - the starting/0 point - then stiffen by going further counterclockwise for a specified number of clicks. Stop at the count of the last groove/click. In other words, C6 below means it refers to the compression knob and once you get to full clockwise/soft, go counterclockwise and stop at the 7th groove/click (fist click is 0 then 6 more from there).
- Street Front C6/R8
- Street Rear C4/R5
- Track Front C8/R12
- Track Rear C7/R8

Please post your settings when you've dialed them in to your liking, and note spring rates if different and sway rates if not stock. Thanks

[dp1]

Anyone knows height of the front vs rear springs on JRZ RS double adjustables? Just the main springs without helper springs. Is it 6" front and 4" rear? @CSG Mike?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by dp1

Anyone knows height of the front vs rear springs on JRZ RS double adjustables? Just the main springs without helper springs. Is it 6" front and 4" rear? @CSG Mike?

That is correct for your setup; use the helper springs in the rear.

[dp1]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

That is correct for your setup; use the helper springs in the rear.

Clarified with @CSG Mike, it's 500lb 4" spring + helper spring in front and 600lb 6" spring + helper spring in rear. Thx

[dp1]

I don't know how much to attribute to the most recent suspension reinforcements vs new JRZ RS vs increasingly feeling more comfortable driving closer to the limit but I'm 4 seconds faster at NJMP Thunderbolt than last year and the mild oversteer with proposed initial JRZ USA track settings is very easy to control. Will try different adjustments. I am easily leaving few more seconds on the table 8). Not cheap but worth every penny.