2013 FRS | Documented LS2 Swap | How to DIY + Parts List + CANBUS

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by spitsnaugle

Sportsguy - I assume them is Vorshlag? If so, I was curious about your master cyl firewall adapter, and that answers that. I plan to drill and put a plate with studs on the inside of the firewall. I have taller valve covers than OEM, so I am quite nervous about that clearance.

gtpvette - If I didnt already have that adapter I would give it a shot, I just plan to use a 90* -3an female to -4an female fitting to join it.

By them I mean McLeod Racing which is the brand of those adapters you linked. I think even with taller valve covers as long as they don’t extend farther out than stock you should be fine.

For the firewall adapter plate I used a Rywire S2000 Tilton/Wilwood adapter plate. Bolt pattern is very similar to ours just need minor modification.

[spitsnaugle]

Shipped out headers to JET HOT today to get ceramic coated, trying to keep temps down.

[spitsnaugle]

MOVED THIS POST EARLIER

[VR4EVER]

Love the updates. I'm local as well (PM sent) and hope to see you around! I look forward to doing this swap next year. Your test rig is sweet!

[spitsnaugle]

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[spitsnaugle]

(Update: This post may seem out of order, I have re-arranged posts in this thread for a better flow, but did not move this post because of its date and significance.)


Unfortunately I haven't had time to work on the car the two weeks, my Dad passed away unexpectedly August 6th. He was a great car guy, got me in to racing, and even built my LS engine, but never got to drive it.

Since getting back home this week, I've started removing the front cross member, hoping to test fit the engine in from below this weekend, also installed AC in my garage, it'll make some of the upcoming work a bit more comfortable.

Untill then, the car sits, waiting:

[VR4EVER]

Jealous of your shop! I've shared my condolences once, but again, really hate to hear about your Dad. That is brutal.

[spitsnaugle]

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[spitsnaugle]

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[VR4EVER]

3 questions:

- What did you have to trim to keep the swaybar? Looks like it's fine as is... little tight to the steering rack maybe? Maybe trim that molded transmission support a hair?

- You have "bend AC lines" as a to-do. Where did you get AC lines to bend? Any local places to supply?

- You using a T56 or TR6060? Which shifter? Your first post doesn't have the transmission listed.

[spitsnaugle]

Originally Posted by VR4EVER

3 questions:

- What did you have to trim to keep the swaybar? Looks like it's fine as is... little tight to the steering rack maybe? Maybe trim that molded transmission support a hair?

- You have "bend AC lines" as a to-do. Where did you get AC lines to bend? Any local places to supply?

- You using a T56 or TR6060? Which shifter? Your first post doesn't have the transmission listed.

-- I have not trimmed the oil pan yet. But I'll need to lightly notch it for the sway bar-- it makes contact as I move the swaybar. I did have to cut a notch in the motor mount for the driverside front plug. Cant alter where the steering rack is.

--Bending AC lines-- OEM lines. I can reuse the smaller line to the front condenser. Looking for work arounds for the larger line to the compressor, I've heard of some folks using AN lines.

--GTO T56 (m12) It has the shifter a few inches behind the transmission, using the third hole in the CX racing mount should be just 1" back of the original location.

[VR4EVER]

Originally Posted by spitsnaugle

-- I have not trimmed the oil pan yet. But I'll need to lightly notch it for the sway bar-- it makes contact as I move the swaybar. I did have to cut a notch in the motor mount for the driverside front plug. Cant alter where the steering rack is.

--Bending AC lines-- OEM lines. I can reuse the smaller line to the front condenser. Looking for work arounds for the larger line to the compressor, I've heard of some folks using AN lines.

--GTO T56 (m12) It has the shifter a few inches behind the transmission, should be just 1"-2" back of the original location.

If you wouldn't mind sharing your fix for the AC lines, I have another car that needs AC lines made too, and I haven't found any solutions I feel comfortable with yet.

[spitsnaugle]

Getting closer.


GTO AC compressor and GTO alternator pulley wouldnt clear the lower radiator support. Luckily I had a East Coast Electrics alternator from my other LS build.

Dirty Dingo MINI AC Sanden SD7B10 Kit ordered to give me more clearance. **UPDATE: GET HOLLEY BRACKET - dingo alignment continuously threw belts.

[gtpvette]

Originally Posted by spitsnaugle

I dropped the crossmember out. I'll try to document the bolts MM later.

• One Plastic rivet each side at rear of crossmember
• One nut/bold to each to the LCA.
• Disconnected steering outer tie rods from hubs (at Castellated nut)
• Disconnected steering column, marked lines on column and rack to re-align splines.
• Disconnected sway bar from struts.
• Two bolts each side at rear of sway bar bracket.
• Two bolts each side of crossmember above LCA mount.

Quick question regarding the cross member. Nothing there that would melt if I did some welding on it in place is there??? Need a couple of brackets on the front.