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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 02-15-2016, 08:38 AM   #421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by semis View Post
Cheers for the complete info!
Did you find it still shift gear at the same rpm every gear as with stock FD, Or the ECU shifts based on speed (higher rpm)?
just want to make sure if there's a need for ECU adjustment after the installment
I have not touched the ECU in any way. For me this one important detail put my mind at ease and made me feel comfortable to do this while the car was still under warranty.

Think about this FD mod for a moment. Here is a mod that is relatively inexpensive, virtually impossible to detect, requires no adjustment to your ECU, not even to your speedometer. It doesn't mess with emissions tests as its not a tune or exhaust related mod ie you still have both cats.

Depending on the ratio you select you improve acceleration by .5 to a full second. It almost seems too good to be true right? I can understand people looking under every rock to find a catch.

The one and only catch (do your research) is I recall there being a need to also replace your LSD as it becomes no-longer compatible if you go much higher in ratio's than 4.5/4.6 or so. Some of the others who have, can chime in on this one. That said, with the 4.556 Cusco I went with, I had no such issues.

Must admit I'm enjoying the mild sleeper feel to the car now. Stock wheels / suspension probably helps that image along.

Talking to your other point. the ECU appears to still shift at the same points, but as each gear is faster it feels like it shifts earlier than prior. Hope that made sense.
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Old 02-15-2016, 11:16 AM   #422
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Originally Posted by Mim View Post
I have not touched the ECU in any way. For me this one important detail put my mind at ease and made me feel comfortable to do this while the car was still under warranty.

Think about this FD mod for a moment. Here is a mod that is relatively inexpensive, virtually impossible to detect, requires no adjustment to your ECU, not even to your speedometer. It doesn't mess with emissions tests as its not a tune or exhaust related mod ie you still have both cats.

Depending on the ratio you select you improve acceleration by .5 to a full second. It almost seems too good to be true right? I can understand people looking under every rock to find a catch.

The one and only catch (do your research) is I recall there being a need to also replace your LSD as it becomes no-longer compatible if you go much higher in ratio's than 4.5/4.6 or so. Some of the others who have, can chime in on this one. That said, with the 4.556 Cusco I went with, I had no such issues.

Must admit I'm enjoying the mild sleeper feel to the car now. Stock wheels / suspension probably helps that image along.

Talking to your other point. the ECU appears to still shift at the same points, but as each gear is faster it feels like it shifts earlier than prior. Hope that made sense.
Well, that was very informative! I plan to do this in the future when i get some other mods out of the way since I don't plan to do headers
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Old 02-17-2016, 01:31 AM   #423
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Well that's good to hear!
I agree this mod is so attractive but have never done FD before so just want to minimise future surprises.
Im almost ready to order the 4.88 either Revolution JDM or Weir from US.
Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mim View Post
I have not touched the ECU in any way. For me this one important detail put my mind at ease and made me feel comfortable to do this while the car was still under warranty.

Think about this FD mod for a moment. Here is a mod that is relatively inexpensive, virtually impossible to detect, requires no adjustment to your ECU, not even to your speedometer. It doesn't mess with emissions tests as its not a tune or exhaust related mod ie you still have both cats.

Depending on the ratio you select you improve acceleration by .5 to a full second. It almost seems too good to be true right? I can understand people looking under every rock to find a catch.

The one and only catch (do your research) is I recall there being a need to also replace your LSD as it becomes no-longer compatible if you go much higher in ratio's than 4.5/4.6 or so. Some of the others who have, can chime in on this one. That said, with the 4.556 Cusco I went with, I had no such issues.

Must admit I'm enjoying the mild sleeper feel to the car now. Stock wheels / suspension probably helps that image along.

Talking to your other point. the ECU appears to still shift at the same points, but as each gear is faster it feels like it shifts earlier than prior. Hope that made sense.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:25 AM   #424
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pinion seal question on 4.30 rear

In post #65 of this thread back on Jan 30 of 2013, member 03Z33 has a great list of rears that includes a Toyota OEM 41201-29606 4.30 rear originally for a Supra. There is a comment saying the included pinion seal will not fit. What do I use for a seal? Will this r&p work with the Torsen diff in the twins? I was not able to get my computer to quote the mentioned post. Thanx!

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Old 03-06-2016, 10:18 AM   #425
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Originally Posted by swarb View Post
For manual transmission it would be probably slightly faster.
My guesstimate is .5-1 second faster. Some of the time gained is loss because you would need to shift to 3rd. BUT after 62mph the 4.10's would need to shift(lost time) to 3rd and the 4.56 would already be ahead and in 3rd pulling further away.

I forgot where I read it, but someone mentioned 4.88's in an auto, 30-90mph they gained something like 2 seconds.
Assuming both cars are in the power band, mathematically they cancel out. In other words, the extra distance gained by the lower PD car is lost completely during the time when it upshifts and the higher FD car stays in gear. In real world, you'll see advantages in the lower FD car as it:

1) spends less time in the sub-optimal power band when accelerating from a start
and
2) at any point in time will either be even or have a lead assuming all other factors are equal, even if at some points the higher FD car is gaining.

If you're seeing 2 second advantages, it's probably over a span optimized for the lower FD car, i.e. lower FD car is at or near redline right before it has to upshift.
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Old 03-06-2016, 12:21 PM   #426
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcw99 View Post
In post #65 of this thread back on Jan 30 of 2013, member 03Z33 has a great list of rears that includes a Toyota OEM 41201-29606 4.30 rear originally for a Supra. There is a comment saying the included pinion seal will not fit. What do I use for a seal? Will this r&p work with the Torsen diff in the twins? I was not able to get my computer to quote the mentioned post. Thanx!
I think I just found the answer on another thread posting by 37 who in turn referenced Jeff Lange. part # 90311-38070
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:21 PM   #427
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Is it a bad idea (waste of money) to change FD (4.556 or 4.88) on an AT if I plan to go FI?
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:35 PM   #428
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Is it a bad idea (waste of money) to change FD (4.556 or 4.88) on an AT if I plan to go FI?
@whataboutbob did it

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Old 06-02-2016, 01:08 AM   #429
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@whataboutbob did it

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It'll get you out of 1st gear sooner. It also gets you into a higher rpm at a lower speed, which can help boost. The downside is that it can throw off the speed/rpm/gear tables in the car, which can lead to a higher rpm on downshift.
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Old 06-02-2016, 02:10 PM   #430
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what turbo (horsepower) do you have and what fd?
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Old 06-02-2016, 04:56 PM   #431
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late sub'd
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Old 06-04-2016, 03:11 PM   #432
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Is it a bad idea (waste of money) to change FD (4.556 or 4.88) on an AT if I plan to go FI?
I probably wouldn't do it if you plan to go FI.
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Old 06-05-2016, 11:14 AM   #433
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I have a Cusco 4.5 installed in a spare stock differential. I may be looking to sell it this summer. Does anyone have any idea what it's worth? I'd sell the entire thing as a unit.
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Old 06-05-2016, 03:17 PM   #434
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I have a Cusco 4.5 installed in a spare stock differential. I may be looking to sell it this summer. Does anyone have any idea what it's worth? I'd sell the entire thing as a unit.
Look at the price that Spencer Fab. charges, then add in a core charge and work from there?
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