Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[jacobe38]

Originally Posted by AllThePeat

Anyone else running the PTuning flex fuel kit and the JRSC — running into some fitment issues with the ethanol sensor and the oil reservoir needing much of the same space. Going to look at modifying the sensor bracket to give more room for the oil line and reservoir, but curious if others have solved in other ways.

i mounted my ptuning stuff to the back of the manifold, bolted it to this tab. works fine - been that way for a year and ~13 track days.

passenger side reservoir seems fine too, as long as having that long of a hose isnt a concern. i didnt think of that. i really wanted to use the filter mounting location though.

btw, and not trying to be rude, but your intercooler tube rubber coupling is not installed correctly (should be over the molded ridge in the rotrex with the clamp on the rotrex side of the molded ridge, right up against it) how you have it may not cause issues, though. but you can see you have extra rubber squished together there

[dynarun55]

Hey guys, I just installed a new Rotrex C-30 in my JRSC. I would really like to clear up the procedure for checking the rotrex oil level. So the rotrex manual that came with the box had the following procedure clearly laid out:

Rotrex method - (also Latest version available on website)

Oil level checking procedure
Check the oil level using the correct oil level checking procedure as described below.
• Set the engine speed between 2 and 3000 rpm.
• Remove the dipstick and wipe it clean.
• Check the oil level while the engine is kept running at 2 – 3000 rpm.
• The correct oil level is between the min and max marking of the dipstick
measured with the thread of the cap fully engaged.
IMPORTANT!
The procedure above is the correct and only way to check the oil level (checking the oil
level with the system turned off does not give a correct reading).


Now comparing this to the procedure mentioned in the JRSC manual:

- To check the oil level, make sure the car is completely warmed up.
- Hold the throttle at 2000-2500rpm for approximately 1 minute.
- Let the idle come back to normal and then unscrew the dipstick, wipe it dry, and then reinsert it into the reservoir without threading it back in. The oil level should be between the low and high marks.
- This way of reading the oil level will give you a more accurate “real world” reading of what the oil level is while driving than simply checking it first thing in the morning.

So two key differences to me is the dip stick fully engaged per Rotrex and not letting it return to idle while checking.

So I just did these methods back to back on a flat surface after the car was up to temperature. Had my buddy hold the car between 2 and 3k.

Rotrex method --> The dip stick reads a hair below max.

JRSC method --> The dip stick is at the first level above min.

Checked the whole system for any leaks and loose fittings..everything is good and the car runs great... But I'm really anxious about the rotrex unit failing due to lack of oil or overfilling the reservoir..

What are your thoughts about these 2 different procedures and which one do you follow ?

P.S. The previous Rotrex version (also available on website) did not have the warning that insists theirs is the only way to correctly measure the oil level!! So something must have prompted that revision in their leaflet.

[AllThePeat]

Originally Posted by jacobe38

i mounted my ptuning stuff to the back of the manifold, bolted it to this tab. works fine - been that way for a year and ~13 track days.

passenger side reservoir seems fine too, as long as having that long of a hose isnt a concern. i didnt think of that. i really wanted to use the filter mounting location though.

btw, and not trying to be rude, but your intercooler tube rubber coupling is not installed correctly (should be over the molded ridge in the rotrex with the clamp on the rotrex side of the molded ridge, right up against it) how you have it may not cause issues, though. but you can see you have extra rubber squished together there

No rudeness taken — and I’d rather be wrong and learn, than be ignorant — so appreciate the feedback! Not fully understanding — are you referring to what is connected to the throttle body or the MAF? And possibly it’s the angle I took the picture. I’ll have to take another look at it later this week when I finalize everything before the first startup. Freaking snowed today in Wisconsin

Again, appreciate the info!

And with regard to the hose length, I was also thinking through that when I was adjusting the placement. I only added about 18” to the overall length — created a new hose that was 18” longer than the longest provided hose. The rest were adjusted in position, but no additional length. Considering the percentage added wasn’t a lot — IMO — I thought it was worth the modification. Like the way it turned out, so we shall see!

[jacobe38]

Originally Posted by AllThePeat

No rudeness taken — and I’d rather be wrong and learn, than be ignorant — so appreciate the feedback! Not fully understanding — are you referring to what is connected to the throttle body or the MAF? And possibly it’s the angle I took the picture. I’ll have to take another look at it later this week when I finalize everything before the first startup. Freaking snowed today in Wisconsin

Again, appreciate the info!

And with regard to the hose length, I was also thinking through that when I was adjusting the placement. I only added about 18” to the overall length — created a new hose that was 18” longer than the longest provided hose. The rest were adjusted in position, but no additional length. Considering the percentage added wasn’t a lot — IMO — I thought it was worth the modification. Like the way it turned out, so we shall see!

sure, i was referring to this area

[jacobe38]

Originally Posted by dynarun55

Hey guys, I just installed a new Rotrex C-30 in my JRSC. I would really like to clear up the procedure for checking the rotrex oil level. So the rotrex manual that came with the box had the following procedure clearly laid out:

Rotrex method - (also Latest version available on website)

Oil level checking procedure
Check the oil level using the correct oil level checking procedure as described below.
• Set the engine speed between 2 and 3000 rpm.
• Remove the dipstick and wipe it clean.
• Check the oil level while the engine is kept running at 2 – 3000 rpm.
• The correct oil level is between the min and max marking of the dipstick
measured with the thread of the cap fully engaged.
IMPORTANT!
The procedure above is the correct and only way to check the oil level (checking the oil
level with the system turned off does not give a correct reading).


Now comparing this to the procedure mentioned in the JRSC manual:

- To check the oil level, make sure the car is completely warmed up.
- Hold the throttle at 2000-2500rpm for approximately 1 minute.
- Let the idle come back to normal and then unscrew the dipstick, wipe it dry, and then reinsert it into the reservoir without threading it back in. The oil level should be between the low and high marks.
- This way of reading the oil level will give you a more accurate “real world” reading of what the oil level is while driving than simply checking it first thing in the morning.

So two key differences to me is the dip stick fully engaged per Rotrex and not letting it return to idle while checking.

So I just did these methods back to back on a flat surface after the car was up to temperature. Had my buddy hold the car between 2 and 3k.

Rotrex method --> The dip stick reads a hair below max.

JRSC method --> The dip stick is at the first level above min.

Checked the whole system for any leaks and loose fittings..everything is good and the car runs great... But I'm really anxious about the rotrex unit failing due to lack of oil or overfilling the reservoir..

What are your thoughts about these 2 different procedures and which one do you follow ?

P.S. The previous Rotrex version (also available on website) did not have the warning that insists theirs is the only way to correctly measure the oil level!! So something must have prompted that revision in their leaflet.

i would follow Jackson's method. my reasoning is that their directions are kit/car specific and in theory are more accurate than rotrex's more generalized instructions. not an expert though.

I've gotten to the point where I've learned where the 'proper' reading correlates to the cold level and just check the cold level. if its right, and you have no leaks, i check it a few times a year

[dynarun55]

Originally Posted by jacobe38

i would follow Jackson's method. my reasoning is that their directions are kit/car specific and in theory are more accurate than rotrex's more generalized instructions. not an expert though.

I've gotten to the point where I've learned where the 'proper' reading correlates to the cold level and just check the cold level. if its right, and you have no leaks, i check it a few times a year

I hear what you're saying...but I feel like using the JR method on initial startup slightly overfills the system. I am curious if someone has checked the oil level once after things have leveled out..say after a week of driving. The reservoir is a vented cap, I suspect the oil eventually seeps out and if you measure again using the JR method it will read low.

What really bothers me is, just in theory, the Rotrex method will most definitely result in a higher reading coz of more scavenging at higher rpm + thread fully engaged...and JR's read at idle rpm without the dip stick thread engaged.

Anyone else weigh in on this ? I already burnt up a unit and I really really love this setup and I do not want to lose another one. Would appreciate any input.. TIA

[jacobe38]

Originally Posted by dynarun55

I hear what you're saying...but I feel like using the JR method on initial startup slightly overfills the system. I am curious if someone has checked the oil level once after things have leveled out..say after a week of driving. The reservoir is a vented cap, I suspect the oil eventually seeps out and if you measure again using the JR method it will read low.

What really bothers me is, just in theory, the Rotrex method will most definitely result in a higher reading coz of more scavenging at higher rpm + thread fully engaged...and JR's read at idle rpm without the dip stick thread engaged.

Anyone else weigh in on this ? I already burnt up a unit and I really really love this setup and I do not want to lose another one. Would appreciate any input.. TIA

consistent method is more important than which method used

the JRSC method does overfill at first start, b/c a ton of fluid gets sucked into the system. hoses, cooler, etc, all hold fluid. priming the unit is a critical part of the start up too. and even after that first crank, you have to add more fluid still, and quickly, b/c it will empty the reservoir on first start (i accidentally ran my reservoir dry for a couple minutes). unless you did something like pre-filling the cooler, you do have to add and/or remove fluid at first until you find the right level.

the oil does not eventually seep out. the total fluid in the system will remain the same, assuming no leaks or issues

I added/removed fluid until mine read full using the jackson method and called it a day cause i can do that one alone. been a year, many trackdays of hard driving, and no problems.

[dynarun55]

Yes total fluid remains the same but if you are over-full. the oil will seep out from the vented cap at higher rpms when there is greater scavenging. Rotrex seems to equally paranoid about over-filling in their manual. I am glad to hear your rotrex is working well and good to know you used the JR method to fill it to full.

Originally Posted by jacobe38

consistent method is more important than which method used

the JRSC method does overfill at first start, b/c a ton of fluid gets sucked into the system. hoses, cooler, etc, all hold fluid. priming the unit is a critical part of the start up too. and even after that first crank, you have to add more fluid still, and quickly, b/c it will empty the reservoir on first start (i accidentally ran my reservoir dry for a couple minutes). unless you did something like pre-filling the cooler, you do have to add and/or remove fluid at first until you find the right level.

the oil does not eventually seep out. the total fluid in the system will remain the same, assuming no leaks or issues

I added/removed fluid until mine read full using the jackson method and called it a day cause i can do that one alone. been a year, many trackdays of hard driving, and no problems.

[dynarun55]

Originally Posted by jacobe38

consistent method is more important than which method used

the JRSC method does overfill at first start, b/c a ton of fluid gets sucked into the system. hoses, cooler, etc, all hold fluid. priming the unit is a critical part of the start up too. and even after that first crank, you have to add more fluid still, and quickly, b/c it will empty the reservoir on first start (i accidentally ran my reservoir dry for a couple minutes). unless you did something like pre-filling the cooler, you do have to add and/or remove fluid at first until you find the right level.

the oil does not eventually seep out. the total fluid in the system will remain the same, assuming no leaks or issues

I added/removed fluid until mine read full using the jackson method and called it a day cause i can do that one alone. been a year, many trackdays of hard driving, and no problems.

Don't mean to be annoying but when you get a chance can you check what your dip stick shows using the JR method right now please ?

[jacobe38]

Originally Posted by dynarun55

Don't mean to be annoying but when you get a chance can you check what your dip stick shows using the JR method right now please ?

sorry i can't now, but i can tomorrow

[dynarun55]

Originally Posted by jacobe38

sorry i can't now, but i can tomorrow

Thanks a ton..

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[jacobe38]

Originally Posted by dynarun55

Thanks a ton..

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

wasnt able to until today, but heres the reading using JSRC method

looks like im over full, up to the L in the word Level, LOL. i ran it like this for 13 track days so, i think its fine....but im gonna pull some out just in case.

at the very least, this should tell you not to worry TOO much about over filling.

[dynarun55]

Originally Posted by jacobe38

wasnt able to until today, but heres the reading using JSRC method

looks like im over full, up to the L in the word Level, LOL. i ran it like this for 13 track days so, i think its fine....but im gonna pull some out just in case.

at the very least, this should tell you not to worry TOO much about over filling.

Oh wow! That is the level on the stick without the thread of the cap engaged ?? If it is that then yeah you are over full lol. .. but seriously thanks for checking... Got to know you're issue free.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[jacobe38]

Originally Posted by dynarun55

Oh wow! That is the level on the stick without the thread of the cap engaged ?? If it is that then yeah you are over full lol. .. but seriously thanks for checking... Got to know you're issue free.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

yep, without threads engaged.

and no worries...it was good for me to check regardless. problem is i have no effective way to pull fluid out. i just dipped the stick like 50 times and wiped off the excess.

some really high level scientific stuff happening in my garage as you can tell