Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[Wraithrider]

I've bin reading this thread since the first post. It was a long winter in Illinois. We will be installing our E Force kit in the next few weeks, I've noticed all the intake vacuum leaks . Has anyone tried using studs in place of the button head bolts ? I was thinking that might keep installers from rolling those thin silicone seals.

[Luftwaffel]

Originally Posted by spicyricecake

You'll be surprised how often I was requested for the operation during this install. Definitely need a friend with small hands

Admittedly I do have girl hands. That might be why things went fairly smooth.

[Luftwaffel]

Originally Posted by Wraithrider

I've bin reading this thread since the first post. It was a long winter in Illinois. We will be installing our E Force kit in the next few weeks, I've noticed all the intake vacuum leaks . Has anyone tried using studs in place of the button head bolts ? I was thinking that might keep installers from rolling those thin silicone seals.

Are you talking about the intake filter box? You can't really have a vacuum leak there in the first place. That being said, fuck the intake filter box. It's a bastard to get it together. Edelbrock please fix.

[Luftwaffel]

Originally Posted by Cockatoo

The hose clamps that come with the kit (while they hold really well) are GARBAGE, do yourself a favor a buy some OEM style ones that are easier to work with

While I agree that they're stupidly impossible to attach, you can't beat them for tension clamps. Screw type would likely hold stronger but trying to place them and screw them down has a high likelihood of being just as stupidly impossible to accomplish.

Originally Posted by Cockatoo

The head on the rear 14mm bolt holding the A/C compressor on is not very tall, we pretty much rounded the damm thing before we just decided we didn’t need to remove the compressor and someone with small hands was able to clamp the new PCV line in

Some of the bolts are a pain, helps to give things a squirt of penetrating oil.

Originally Posted by Cockatoo

We opted to pre-install the coolant lines on the back of the supercharger unit before setting it down on the engine, THIS WORKED BEAUTIFULLY, DEFINITELY DO THIS!!

YES! Was I right or was I right? Thanks for testing this out for future self-installs!

@CSG Mike - Would it be reasonable to add an install tips blurb to the main post?

Originally Posted by Cockatoo

Once you get to the intake portion of the install, the install references button head bolts sizes that don’t cross-reference with the parts list (they are there though)

Yeah agreed, there's some weirdness at the end of the manual. It's almost like the last page or two the guy writing it got tired or lazy.

Originally Posted by Cockatoo

MAF sensor screws didn’t screw down all the way for some reason, had to put some spacers in to make it tight

That's weird. I didn't have this issue. You sure you used the right screws? Didn't someone else have an issue with MAF screws being too long?

Originally Posted by Cockatoo

The ¾ inch hose clamp used to secure the PCV line is also GARBAGE, it’s made of plastic and twists and bends when putting any torque on it

You're not supposed to put torque on it, it's just to loosely hold the hose like many of the other plastic clamps around the car.

[spicyricecake]

Originally Posted by Luftwaffel

You're not supposed to put torque on it, it's just to loosely hold the hose like many of the other plastic clamps around the car.

he meant putting force on it in general to loosen it. we didnt even get to undo the bolt to begin with

[Cockatoo]

Originally Posted by Luftwaffel

That's weird. I didn't have this issue. You sure you used the right screws? Didn't someone else have an issue with MAF screws being too long?

Well those were the only MAF sized button head screws in the bag. In fact they seemed to be the exact same size as the oem ones... So either they were supposed to be shorter screws, or the threads in the MAF pipe were not correctly drilled

[CSG Mike]

@Luftwaffel The only reason I don't is that if you pre-attach the hoses, you have to be very careful when you put the manifold on the car to not scratch the plastic trim. Not having it on will guarantee no contact.

[scudzey]

Originally Posted by Cockatoo

Well those were the only MAF sized button head screws in the bag. In fact they seemed to be the exact same size as the oem ones... So either they were supposed to be shorter screws, or the threads in the MAF pipe were not correctly drilled

I had the same issue during my install. I took a dremel to the screws to make them shorter.

[Luftwaffel]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

@Luftwaffel The only reason I don't is that if you pre-attach the hoses, you have to be very careful when you put the manifold on the car to not scratch the plastic trim. Not having it on will guarantee no contact.

If the clamps are angled toward the manifold it won't matter regardless, though.

[Wraithrider]

I was referring to the bolts holding the super charger assembly to the cylinder heads. I'm thinking of installing studs as that is what we use on the alcohol funny-car ( aluminum block, heads, and intake ) which uses regular gaskets with o-ring inserts.

[Wraithrider]

We are limited to a 75 min turn-around at a NHRA event never had a vacuum leak I can remember and that supercharger weighs approx 100 lbs

[Luftwaffel]

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm_QF9XHSko"]Edelbrock Supercharged BRZ on the Dyno - YouTube[/ame]

So, I made 258/206 but it looks like I have a coil pack or spark plug going, because the power breaks up really bad after 6000 RPM. My tuner will be leaving on Monday though, so I probably won't have time to get the parts and fix it before he's out.

Oh well, part of the game I guess.

[armstrom]

Originally Posted by Luftwaffel

So, I made 258/206 but it looks like I have a coil pack or spark plug going, because the power breaks up really bad after 6000 RPM. My tuner will be leaving on Monday though, so I probably won't have time to get the parts and fix it before he's out.

Oh well, part of the game I guess.

Did you check the gap on your plugs? You should also consider gapping them down a few thou. The stock gap is 0.8mm or 0.032". Maybe something closer to 0.028" or 0.030" would correct the issue? Of course, you should inspect your plugs first since damaged electrodes will cause issues like this as well. As a general rule forced induction engines require a slightly smaller spark gap since the resistance of air increases with the pressure. Just make sure you don't gap down too much or the car will stumble at idle.

[Luftwaffel]

Originally Posted by armstrom

Did you check the gap on your plugs? You should also consider gapping them down a few thou. The stock gap is 0.8mm or 0.032". Maybe something closer to 0.028" or 0.030" would correct the issue? Of course, you should inspect your plugs first since damaged electrodes will cause issues like this as well. As a general rule forced induction engines require a slightly smaller spark gap since the resistance of air increases with the pressure. Just make sure you don't gap down too much or the car will stumble at idle.

Already part of the plan. I doubt this is the issue since I haven't really seen anyone else have this problem though. Failing coil packs on the other hand I've seen a fair amount of. Most likely I'll be ordering new plugs and gapping them tighter, and go from there.

I can't believe how expensive coil packs are for this car. BMW coil packs? $120-250 for a set of 6. Audi R8 coil packs? $100 for a set of 4. BRZ coil packs? $100+ a piece, because fuck you.