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Old 11-19-2015, 02:21 AM   #15
mav1178
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-4.5 is crazy
Not really. I'm currently around -3.8 and I am daily driving the car now.

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Old 11-19-2015, 03:50 AM   #16
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Not really. I'm currently around -3.8 and I am daily driving the car now.

-alex
I'm sure you have the tire budget...
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Old 11-19-2015, 01:24 PM   #17
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I'm sure you have the tire budget...
Camber alone does not kill tires.
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Old 11-19-2015, 01:55 PM   #18
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I actually think I'm having this same problem.

Stock front bar + stock endlinks with MCS singles.

Have shorter endlinks on the way which I suspect will fix it right up.
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Old 11-19-2015, 04:18 PM   #19
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Camber alone does not kill tires.
You mean like actually driving in on roads? lol tell us more, @mav1178
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Old 11-19-2015, 05:58 PM   #20
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I actually think I'm having this same problem.

Stock front bar + stock endlinks with MCS singles.

Have shorter endlinks on the way which I suspect will fix it right up.
Different length endlink will probably not do anything for clearance at the strut mount since the mounting tab position is unchanged on the strut. Although a smaller, less protruding, upper endlink will give more clearance.

A different length endlink may give you more clearance at the control arm/sway bar side.
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Old 11-19-2015, 06:29 PM   #21
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we have the same problem on our race car with RCE tarmac2 (KW) and stock end link. We had to grind as much material as possible on the endlink so it doesn't touch the body of the car. They have been holding on fine so far for the whole season.
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Old 11-19-2015, 07:05 PM   #22
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Different length endlink will probably not do anything for clearance at the strut mount since the mounting tab position is unchanged on the strut. Although a smaller, less protruding, upper endlink will give more clearance.

A different length endlink may give you more clearance at the control arm/sway bar side.

I'm hitting on both sides I think. And I'm going to a shorter and lower profile setup. Will post after it works. I didn't buy off the shelf frs stuff.
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Old 11-19-2015, 10:10 PM   #23
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You mean like actually driving in on roads? lol tell us more, @mav1178
My street tires wore even at -3 with daily driving. That's why I decided to go further.
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Old 11-19-2015, 10:48 PM   #24
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My street tires wore even at -3 with daily driving. That's why I decided to go further.
both front and rear? What kind of tire pressures are you running? @mav1178?
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Old 11-19-2015, 10:49 PM   #25
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we have the same problem on our race car with RCE tarmac2 (KW) and stock end link. We had to grind as much material as possible on the endlink so it doesn't touch the body of the car. They have been holding on fine so far for the whole season.
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I'm hitting on both sides I think. And I'm going to a shorter and lower profile setup. Will post after it works. I didn't buy off the shelf frs stuff.
how much lower than stock are you guys?
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Old 11-20-2015, 02:36 AM   #26
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Maybe 1.5"? I'm honestly not sure.

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Old 11-20-2015, 03:32 AM   #27
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Garage
I had the same problem. Ran max low and max camber and rubbed.I was too lazy to fix it properly so I ended up taking to that part of the body with a ball pein hammer you can't notice it from inside the engine bay. As to whether you rub or not is usually determined by what coils/endlinks you have. Some coil manufacturers offer camber and height adjustibility without taking into account how this may affect the endlinks. The ones who do set their mounts a little further forward. Getting adjustable endlinks CAN help, but it depends mainly on the profile of the knuckle joint. The standard ones stick out quite alot whereas some aftermarket ones have smaller more compact knuckles.
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Old 11-20-2015, 05:02 PM   #28
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^ Hammer fixes everything. lmao!

Bad reception on phone? hit it with hammer. Starter motor not working? Tap firmly with a hammer. Annoying wife won't shut up? Bust out the 10lbs sledge hammer. (edit: tis joke. I do not condone domestic violence) unless dat bitch was axeing fo it
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