Swift Spec R Review

[M23]

After doing some simple cost calculations; I think you'd get the most bang for the buck by just getting RCE T0 (cheaper/same-price..and at the same time already built (no down time) and valved perfectly) than re-valving B8/B6s.

Swift Spec-R or Tarmac: $375 or $330
B8 or B6 shocks: $900
Total: $1275
Revalved Total (+$420): $1650-1695

RCE T0: $1700

[Hyper4mance2k]

Originally Posted by M23

After doing some simple cost calculations; I think you'd get the most bang for the buck by just getting RCE T0 (cheaper/same-price..and at the same time already built (no down time) and valved perfectly) than re-valving B8/B6s.

Swift Spec-R or Tarmac: $375 or $330
B8 or B6 shocks: $900
Total: $1275
Revalved Total (+$420): $1650-1695

RCE T0: $1700

I got my Spec R's for $299 shipped through a vender here on the forum. They were $399 with 20mm spacers.
--
I contacted Koni to inquire about specifications on the shocks, and optimal spring rate. This is what i received in reply;

Thank you for contacting us her at KONI NA. The struts and shocks are not shorten and are similar in stroke and min and max length to OE dampers. The optimized valving and rebound adjustable damping allows for the use with lowering spring and increased spring rates. When designed by KONI engineers, the sport valving is selected based on performance and ride using the factory springs. If the car has performance upgrades (springs, wheel/tire packages, etc.) or the driver wants the car a bit more aggressive, most people find the optimum setting in the 1/2 to one full turn from the full soft range. Over the extended life of the damper or if the driver wants a specific firm handling characteristic, the dampers can be adjusted up higher. One of the great advantages of KONI adjustable shocks is that there is no specific spring for matching optimum performance. Instead you can adjust your KONIs to match your springs. Most performance springs have a higher spring rate than the vehicle's original springs.Since the shock controls the motion of the spring, increased spring rates require more rebound damping for control and that is one of the reasons why KONIs are rebound adjustable (and some are double adjustable). The KONI adjustment range is typically about 100% (twice as firm at the full firm settings at the full soft setting) to allow for proper damping of OE springs and high rate performance springs.

[Hyper4mance2k]

I'm getting a weird noise from the rear of my car. It's only on the driver's side. It happens whenever there is weight transfer tot he rear, so when i let the clutch out in gear, when I change gears if I let off the throttle and reapply.
It sounds like spring slap to me, but @Corner3garage doesn't think it is: they think it's an axle. I also thought it may have been a lose spacer, so today I turned some wrenches.
First I lifted the car and loosened all the bolts and nuts, then I put the car on it's full weight and made sure everything was tightened to spec. When I did my spring install I used a pass through set and allen keys, so the struts did not spin.
I removed the 20mm V3 spacer and cleaned the mounting surface. Tested the car with and w/o the spacer. Noise is still present.
Finally I took an old piece of vacuum hose and chopped it up trying to use it as a spring silencer, it's too think, but it stay's on and the noise is still there.
With weight on the car and with the car in the air I checked the axles for any motion. Both axles felt nice and stiff, there was very little to no play in either axle.
Anyway... Here's a video:
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=izM1eUhkPdc"]BRZ Swift Spec R Spring Slap diagnosis - YouTube[/ame]

[dem00n]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

I'm getting a weird noise from the rear of my car. It's only on the driver's side. It happens whenever there is weight transfer tot he rear, so when i let the clutch out in gear, when I change gears if I let off the throttle and reapply.
It sounds like spring slap to me, but @Corner3garage doesn't think it is. They think it's an axle. I also thought it may have been a lose spacer, so todya I turned some wrenches.
First I lifted the car and loosened all the bolts and nuts, then I put the car on it's full weight and made sure everything was tightened to spec. When I did my spring install I used a pass through set and allen keys, so the struts did not spin.
I removed the 20mm V3 spacer and cleaned the mounting surface. Tested the car with and w/o the spacer. Noise is still present.
Finally I took an old piece of vacuum hose and chopped it up trying to use it as a spring silencer, it's too think, but it stay's on and the noise is still there.
With weight on the car and with the car in the air I checked the axles for any motion. Both axles felt nice and stiff, there was very little play in either axle.
Anyway... Here's a video:

Might wanna check the handbrake as well, my assembly broke and was making a clicking noise as well. Though i have to say, it does sound like the axle noise that the other videos are making...

[Hyper4mance2k]

Thanks. UGH!!! This would be the 5th time I've had to take this hoopdie to the dealer.

[dem00n]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

Thanks. UGH!!! This would be the 5th time I've had to take this hoopdie to the dealer.

Actually, when my assembly broke, it also "sealed" the handbrake so that it was stuck on the driver side, thus always braking. See how well your handbrake works. Mine felt fine at the time.

Sadly, i had the dealer fix it (fucking snow), so I'm not 100% on the handbrake system on these cars. They magically found it broken the day i picked up for other warranty work.

Take what i say with a grain of salt however, I'm by no means an expert.

[CSG David]

Axle.

[Hyper4mance2k]

Originally Posted by CSG David

Axle.

Off to the dealer... Let's hope they don't try to claim it's the springs. The threads on the forum seem to be 50/50 on the dealer honoring waranty repairs.

[CSG David]

Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k

Off to the dealer... Let's hope they don't try to claim it's the springs. The threads on the forum seem to be 50/50 on the dealer honoring waranty repairs.

The repair is to replace. The different ways to prolong the life of that axle is to drive super smooth, rebuild the axle constantly, and constantly ensure the axle nut is tight so the stake is still centered properly.

This kept our axle alive for a year, but going to the DSS "600HP" axle is inevitable. We've sold 15 sets in a span of 2 weeks simply due to the start of the race season. 12 of them went to NA setup cars.

[Corner3garage]

Glad we were able to listen to it, along with our Master Tech Steve, and determine it was more of an axle click than anything else.

How did the dealership end up treating you?

Thanks,
Mike

[Hyper4mance2k]

Originally Posted by Corner3garage

Glad we were able to listen to it, along with our Master Tech Steve, and determine it was more of an axle click than anything else.

How did the dealership end up treating you?

Thanks,
Mike

Thanks again for the help. I have an appointment on Monday. We shall see. I'm considering swapping back to stock. just. in. case. But, being disabled makes aging & wrenching difficult. I can't wait until stem cells can grow me a new back.

[*KID*]

Im getting the same noise.

[Hyper4mance2k]

Went to the dealer today, and they replaced the axle nut. Knocking is gone... for now. Odd because I checked the stock nut and it looked fine and it appeared to be torqued to spec: it didn't budge a mm at 140 ftlbs and the crimp was spot on, so I thought it was fine. Further investigation has led me to believe there might be an issue with lose and worn axle nuts. STi guys seem to replace them regularly once they get clicking.

[Hyper4mance2k]

So I thought I would update this with some more impressions. After a few days back on the stock springs I will tell you this: the Swifts on stock shocks are not very well sorted. At low speeds they inspire a ton of confidence, but at higher speeds the rear struts aren't anywhere close to enough in dampening to control the rear 5.2k spring rates. Any large bumps and it will jounce all over the place. There's a large bump on a local track that would unsettle the car at 95 and scare the crap out of me. With the stock springs and my sway bars the same spot was smooth and clean at well over 100. When I got home from work I put the Swifts back in and another addition.

For now I only did the rears, and it's already a noticeable difference. My impressions from driving for a month w/o a strut upgrade was that the fronts were livable, but the rears needed serious help. Since the fronts are 4.4k I guessed that they would be okay as the RCE Yellows are near identical and RCE and everyone who has run the yellows talks about how well they work with the stock struts.

**Disclaimer** This is only temporary the fronts will get Bilsteins as well once funds allow for them, but as of now I am shocked at how well they are working with stock fronts. More info to come as I put more miles on them. Gotta love a 130 mile commute. It makes for quick suspension reviews.