Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[BlOody_BoOger]

[QUOTE=Legend1515;3393932]I will probably be selling my car soon. Trying to get a 2011-2014 wrx. So my ESC kit and procede controller might be for sale soon if i ended up selling it stock.[/QUOTE @geraldjust need just the snail and @zc06_kisstherain only needs the controller maybe you can make a deal with them.

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[BlOody_BoOger]

Check out this run guys went up against a mustang GT

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[WNDSRFR]

I can't believe how great this thing works in the cold weather. Every time the temperature drops below 50 degrees you can really feel the difference. It's 45 degrees this morning and I'll bet the ESC has at least 25 percent more torque than at 90 degrees. I know the air is more dense when it's cold, but I'm thinking maybe the batteries are more efficient when they're cold?
Anybody else notice this?

[WNDSRFR]

I just noticed that this topic has more views than any other. 2,688,406. For a product that HAD very limited availability. That is no longer available.
Wow
Now I feel really special.

[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

I can't believe how great this thing works in the cold weather. Every time the temperature drops below 50 degrees you can really feel the difference. It's 45 degrees this morning and I'll bet the ESC has at least 25 percent more torque than at 90 degrees. I know the air is more dense when it's cold, but I'm thinking maybe the batteries are more efficient when they're cold?

Anybody else notice this?

Yea wel the batteries do get warm when u start using them. But yea I notice the difference when it's cold it just pulls harder. And there's no worry of producing knock when its cold.

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[zc06_kisstherain]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

I can't believe how great this thing works in the cold weather. Every time the temperature drops below 50 degrees you can really feel the difference. It's 45 degrees this morning and I'll bet the ESC has at least 25 percent more torque than at 90 degrees. I know the air is more dense when it's cold, but I'm thinking maybe the batteries are more efficient when they're cold?

Anybody else notice this?

Thats normal and i know that feeling. Give me your kit now so i can enjoy again lol

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[jflogerzi]

Any boost will always be stronger in cold weather due to the denser air and more importantly will stay consistent due to charge temps staying at ambient or close to it

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[rhythmM]

Hi everyone. I just listed my rev3 kit for sale. Everything still works. Here's a link to the for sale page if anyone is interested.


https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143755

[geraldjust]

hey guys! hopefully you guys don't think i have forgotten about this. but ive made some progress in the electronics. As for improving the original electronics as it was mostly pieced together from some off the shell parts we could not get 100% specifications for. But for the most part it looked to be the following:

ESC capable of 120A but most likely a 200A esc would be better (depending on the current capability of the actual motor used)

A dump pack with a higher voltage would probably be better (higher voltage means less current needed for same amount energy imposed. But with higher voltage means higher RPM on the motor = possibly more PSI. Me thinking something like 3 nissan leaf batteries in series can give you a very nice amount of current and high capacity.

and a design to be able to step up the 12-14v car voltage to 24+ volts.

something like this for the DC-DC step converter. its rated at 1.8kw but in reality im sure its closer to 1.6~1.4kw



As for a display or a way to configure the device i was already working on a side project but it can be repurposed to use it here too. Since we are using can bus to communicate, there is no need for a foot pedal. We could even do fancy thing like set RPM to boots or how far % we should boost the turbo. Ramp up curves.. based on vehicle speed?.... ETC...

i already have a prototype board for the ESC controller. Doing some bench testing and sinal wize looks very good. Hopefully pared up with that 1.8k watt DC-DC charger should help. and some nissan leaf batteries as a test device.

But before i get any deeper you guys think something like this would be beneficial? or just too much work for just replacing the "electronic Box" on the phantom stuff?

Now i just need the Snail to do some real world testing lol.

[churchx]

Phantom was wished product with higher demand then offer. While alternative controller development might be of little use to original phantom esc owners, except those, whose controller got fried for whatever reason, i guess there were many that skipped this product only because limited availability & long wait list. Though if you decide to develop alternative .. hmm .. maybe it might be worth to make separate/own thread dedicated to it, as i'm guessing that it may have it's own specifics/quirks/users and so on..

[zc06_kisstherain]

Originally Posted by geraldjust

hey guys! hopefully you guys don't think i have forgotten about this. but ive made some progress in the electronics. As for improving the original electronics as it was mostly pieced together from some off the shell parts we could not get 100% specifications for. But for the most part it looked to be the following:

ESC capable of 120A but most likely a 200A esc would be better (depending on the current capability of the actual motor used)

A dump pack with a higher voltage would probably be better (higher voltage means less current needed for same amount energy imposed. But with higher voltage means higher RPM on the motor = possibly more PSI. Me thinking something like 3 nissan leaf batteries in series can give you a very nice amount of current and high capacity.

and a design to be able to step up the 12-14v car voltage to 24+ volts.

something like this for the DC-DC step converter. its rated at 1.8kw but in reality im sure its closer to 1.6~1.4kw



As for a display or a way to configure the device i was already working on a side project but it can be repurposed to use it here too. Since we are using can bus to communicate, there is no need for a foot pedal. We could even do fancy thing like set RPM to boots or how far % we should boost the turbo. Ramp up curves.. based on vehicle speed?.... ETC...

i already have a prototype board for the ESC controller. Doing some bench testing and sinal wize looks very good. Hopefully pared up with that 1.8k watt DC-DC charger should help. and some nissan leaf batteries as a test device.

But before i get any deeper you guys think something like this would be beneficial? or just too much work for just replacing the "electronic Box" on the phantom stuff?

Now i just need the Snail to do some real world testing lol.

You can get my snail since i cannot use it. Let me know if you are interested

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[mrjj]

I removed my supercharger today and noticed burn-mark on the red bullet plug. The red heat-shrink tubing was partly melted as well.
Only the red connector was affected, the black and blue look fine.


Do you know what can cause this? The supercharger is working fine (I think).

[zc06_kisstherain]

Originally Posted by mrjj

I removed my supercharger today and noticed burn-mark on the red bullet plug. The red heat-shrink tubing was partly melted as well.
Only the red connector was affected, the black and blue look fine.


Do you know what can cause this? The supercharger is working fine (I think).

It doesnt look like melt to me. Looks like part of red shrink wrap broke and fell off

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[mrjj]

Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain

It doesnt look like melt to me. Looks like part of red shrink wrap broke and fell off

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Sorry, I didn't get the best picture.
It is however melted for sure. I can see the female connector is sooted on both the inside and outside. You should be able to see some of the black marks where the heat-shrink tubing melted. The connector is all black on the inside.
The two connectors (male/female) was very hard to separate. They were almost "welded" together because of the excessive heat.
I can't figure out why the red cable is worse than the other two.
What could cause extra high current on this cable? Or maybe the cable/connector has a bad weld causing high resistance?


EDIT:
Found this. It looks like the same problem!

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...83#post2937683