KPower Industries K24 swap

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

If you guys want a little more feel to the clutch action I recommend the 3/4" slave upgrade. I also removed the assistance spring at the pedal assembly. Both changes make the clutch perfect in my experience.


Link to slave swap

Thanks that's good insight!

[funkjaw]

Ok so question about AC - can I just fill it up (I have one of those AC fill/diagnostic kits with a few cans of refrigerant); or do I need to take it to a shop and actually have them run an evac and fill using their equipment? I bought a used compressor from a junkyard, not sure if it needs oil or what have you.

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

Ok so question about AC - can I just fill it up (I have one of those AC fill/diagnostic kits with a few cans of refrigerant); or do I need to take it to a shop and actually have them run an evac and fill using their equipment? I bought a used compressor from a junkyard, not sure if it needs oil or what have you.

Shop is really the best way if you don't have a vacuum pump and gauge set. Also make sure you install a new desiccant bag in the condenser before you get it filled.



So far I'm not having the best of luck with my AC. I had mine filled by a shop and then have had issues ever since. First was a blown line provided by Kpower but I'm not sure if that was my compressor failing or just bad luck. I just installed a new compressor even though the old one isn't locked up and pretty sure another line is leaking as it won't hold a vacuum. It's really starting to get me aggravated. Someone elsewhere mentioned a Deslugger device since the compressor is mounted so low. I installed that as well so hopefully that will help with my issues? I ended up buying my own gauges and pump so I didn't have to keep going back to the shop. Glad I did as it's helped me learn how all this stuff sorta works but also helps me troubleshoot.

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

Shop is really the best way if you don't have a vacuum pump and gauge set. Also make sure you install a new desiccant bag in the condenser before you get it filled.



So far I'm not having the best of luck with my AC. I had mine filled by a shop and then have had issues ever since. First was a blown line provided by Kpower but I'm not sure if that was my compressor failing or just bad luck. I just installed a new compressor even though the old one isn't locked up and pretty sure another line is leaking as it won't hold a vacuum. It's really starting to get me aggravated. Someone elsewhere mentioned a Deslugger device since the compressor is mounted so low. I installed that as well so hopefully that will help with my issues? I ended up buying my own gauges and pump so I didn't have to keep going back to the shop. Glad I did as it's helped me learn how all this stuff sorta works but also helps me troubleshoot.

Thanks for the input - did you end up getting the 4 seasons deslugger 36140?
https://www.amazon.com/Seasons-36140...ps%2C74&sr=8-1

Was install pretty straight forward?

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

Thanks for the input - did you end up getting the 4 seasons deslugger 36140?
https://www.amazon.com/Seasons-36140...ps%2C74&sr=8-1

Was install pretty straight forward?

That's the one I got. I used to work on old motorcycles so I have a full wiring kit to make bullet type connections. The compressor I got was a GPD and it used the same bullet type so I was able to splice it in there pretty easily. Unfortunately there's not really any great space to mount the part so I zip tied it to the lead/plug coming off the compressor and then zip tied that by the thermostat housing. I think it should hold just fine but will keep an eye on it.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

Ok so question about AC - can I just fill it up (I have one of those AC fill/diagnostic kits with a few cans of refrigerant); or do I need to take it to a shop and actually have them run an evac and fill using their equipment? I bought a used compressor from a junkyard, not sure if it needs oil or what have you.

I did mine myself. I rented the gauge manifold and air pump from AutoZone for free, and then I performed the procedure myself. The local places wanted $250-275, and most didn't want to work on a custom setup.

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

I did mine myself. I rented the gauge manifold and air pump from AutoZone for free, and then I performed the procedure myself. The local places wanted $250-275, and most didn't want to work on a custom setup.

Ahh yeah I didn't think of that but I can imagine I would have a hard time finding a shop to do the work considering how anal Austin can be when it comes to modified cars.

Did you oil the compressor after you evac'd everything?

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

Ahh yeah I didn't think of that but I can imagine I would have a hard time finding a shop to do the work considering how anal Austin can be when it comes to modified cars.

Did you oil the compressor after you evac'd everything?

It came oiled. Check out the build thread. I posted a video I found on Youtube on how to charge the system.

[ML]

Thinking about doing some head work(cams, valves/springs,seals, pNp) to the k24 soon as I believe the valve seals maybe worn out. A whole head job from 4piston for about 3500$ or doing some type of DIY head. Any suggestions?

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by ML

Thinking about doing some head work(cams, valves/springs,seals, pNp) to the k24 soon as I believe the valve seals maybe worn out. A whole head job from 4piston for about 3500$ or doing some type of DIY head. Any suggestions?

Get the 4piston head and call it done. I spent hours researching a more budget friendly option and the only thing I could find was a rare JDM head not sold in the states or the k20z3 head which doesn't net enough HP to justify the work. BUT If you wanna fiddle with the coolant passage differences of a k20a2 head and figure out how to route it, then you could save some coin and add power potential for considerably less.



My invoice from 4piston is $1900 which includes new bronze guides, Ferrea 6000 valves, and Viton valve seals. I plan to assemble myself to save a few bucks and I spent a good amount of time cleaning it before sending off. I'm pairing the head with Drag Cartel stage 4 cams based on other dyno plots from Kpower. My buddy happened to have a brand new set of Supertech springs but was missing the retainers for $200. I bought steel retainers along with new keepers for another $175. There are some deals out there but 4pistons price on these are hard to beat at $380 unless you get lucky. It worked out for me in the end only because I didn't want titanium retainers.



The only thing that sucks about this all is the wait time from 4piston. 4-6 weeks was what I was quoted.

[ML]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

Get the 4piston head and call it done. I spent hours researching a more budget friendly option and the only thing I could find was a rare JDM head not sold in the states or the k20z3 head which doesn't net enough HP to justify the work. BUT If you wanna fiddle with the coolant passage differences of a k20a2 head and figure out how to route it, then you could save some coin and add power potential for considerably less.



My invoice from 4piston is $1900 which includes new bronze guides, Ferrea 6000 valves, and Viton valve seals. I plan to assemble myself to save a few bucks and I spent a good amount of time cleaning it before sending off. I'm pairing the head with Drag Cartel stage 4 cams based on other dyno plots from Kpower. My buddy happened to have a brand new set of Supertech springs but was missing the retainers for $200. I bought steel retainers along with new keepers for another $175. There are some deals out there but 4pistons price on these are hard to beat at $380 unless you get lucky. It worked out for me in the end only because I didn't want titanium retainers.



The only thing that sucks about this all is the wait time from 4piston. 4-6 weeks was what I was quoted.

that is honestly not bad at all time wise. Where did you get the cams from? Drag cartel told me to get their 2.2 cams so why did you go with the stage 4?

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by ML

that is honestly not bad at all time wise. Where did you get the cams from? Drag cartel told me to get their 2.2 cams so why did you go with the stage 4?

I'm upping compression with pistons as well. After seeing the Kpower dyno plot I decided that's the route I wanted to go. Cams were directly from Drag Cartel since they had a sale when I purchased.

[funkjaw]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

... BUT If you wanna fiddle with the coolant passage differences of a k20a2 head and figure out how to route it, then you could save some coin and add power potential for considerably less.

Can you elaborate a little bit on the coolant passage work required to swap on a k20a2 head? I was thinking about going this route to save money...

[captain awesome]

Originally Posted by funkjaw

Can you elaborate a little bit on the coolant passage work required to swap on a k20a2 head? I was thinking about going this route to save money...

You'll need to cut your Kpower intake or buy the proper one for an PRB head. Now you no longer have the water neck on the back of the head. The PRB outlets are located on both the intake and the exhaust side. Unfortunately the larger coolant hose needs to get all the way to the passenger side from the intake area to connect unless you have a custom radiator with an inlet on the driver side. I've done the mental gymnastics on this but it seems like it ends up just costing the same or more than a ported head since the PRB usually ends up between 800-1200 for a good core.


I think it's still possible but don't know if it's worth the effort or cost if you bought the complete kit. Maybe if you pieced your build together it could be a more economical choice?