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Old 12-28-2020, 06:42 PM   #5587
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Does the c38 kit use this same belt?

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Yes
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Old 12-30-2020, 08:43 AM   #5588
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Yes
As always CSG Mike is here with the answer. Thank you sir and Happy New Year!

Here is the link to JR belt
https://jacksonracing.com/product/fr...rcharger-belt/
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Old 12-30-2020, 02:52 PM   #5589
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Should you feel like supporting CSG, also available here

https://www.counterspacegarage.com/j...rger-belt-gt86
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Old 12-31-2020, 09:48 PM   #5590
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Canadian JRSC BRZ :)

Warning: big wall of text! Hopefully some people find this helpful as this was some information I was definitely looking for haha.

Thanks to everyone's comments on this thread and direction from CSG_Mike I bit the bullet and purchased and tuned through CSG, and the final product is way beyond my expectations! My only regret was not doing it sooner because shortly after finishing the tune our winter started and I had to park the car lol... but I am anxiously waiting for spring to bring it back out!

One thing I haven't seen much in this thread that I can provide some perspective on is the experience as a Canadian (specifically located near Toronto). I tried my best to source things locally to reduce costs and have a physical local tuner to visit, however all of the highly regarded performance shops in the area had such a ridiculous markup. Given some worst case estimate on shipping, duties, USD-CAD conversion, etc. I figured CSG's expertise and support would be worth the extra cost. To my surprise the shipping and duties was incredibly low, and my overall cost beat out my local suppliers by $1-3k CAD!! Prep of the kit and shipping was pretty quick despite COVID slowdowns.

I ended up getting the C30 kit, 4 bar map sensor, track oil cooler, and ecutek kit for the remote tune. The installation itself was super easy, it would definitely be helpful to have a 2nd person in two cases: installing the blower and bracket assembly while releasing tension on the belt, and for helping to mount the intercooler on the bumper bar. Another note, if you're installing the track oil cooler with your kit just start its installation process while building the intercooler assembly. I came back to it after for some reason and it wasted a lot of time and undid a couple hours of work. All in all the installation went very smoothly, I spent time double and triple checking things as I went and came out with no leaks or fitment issues.

As for the remote tune, overall it went really smoothly and Zach absolutely killed it! He did tune revisions very quickly and responded with detailed answers to all of my questions. Unfortunately due to the time difference and my work schedule we usually did 1 exchange per day. I think we did 9-10 revisions on top of the base tune, but the car felt amazing from the get go and just improved at every revision. There's power on tap, with smooth linear delivery and a really sharp throttle response. The car feels absolutely incredible and so much more fun than NA - I've taken some friends and family out and they have thoroughly enjoyed it too haha.

I think I've put on about 1500km during the remote tune and joy riding until I was forced to park it for winter, and I'm really excited for spring to take it back out. I want to take it to a dyno just to get a power figure, I'll find a place where a stock car has been tested so I can get a baseline and percentage gain just for some fun.

Quick summary of my build:
- Jackson Racing C30 Supercharger, track oil cooler, 4 bar map sensor, ecutek tuned by CSG
- Exhaust: Gruppe-S UEL catless header and overpipe, HKS dual-resonated catless front pipe, Greddy Revolution RS 3" single exit catback exhaust
- Suspension: BC Racing BR series coilovers, Whiteline adjustable end links, SPC rear lower control arms and toe arms
- Wheels: Aodhan AH02 -18x9.5 +30
- Tires: Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 - 255/35/18
- Engine, clutch, fuel pump, injectors, spark plugs - original/stock

Hopefully this info will be useful to others. The tipping point for me was finding someone in my local 86/FRS/BRZ facebook group to give me a ride and just talk about their build. MAJOR shoutout to him, he knows who he is if he reads this! I would highly recommend if anyone is on the fence, try going that route and experience it before you decide either way. I'm really glad I did

Note: I was not paid nor given any discount by CSG to make this post, I really just appreciate their work and support in my build and love the end product that much

I've tried to document a lot of mods and this is no exception, if anyone's interested they can see an imgur album with pics of the installation at various stages. I've also filmed a LOT of supercharger installation, tuning, and joy riding content to help others experience it, that content is on my yt channel that I started recently. Feel free to check it out if you're interested, if not no worries, I'm glad you read this far into the post!

Installation pictures:
http://imgur.com/a/vNl9eye

Youtube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/user/LivingAsleepHD

Happy holidays and new years to everyone and thanks to the CSG team for the incredible support!

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Last edited by livingasleep; 01-01-2021 at 01:02 AM. Reason: photo links broke :(
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Old 12-31-2020, 10:21 PM   #5591
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^^ Nice! Your Mom is a good sport!
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Old 01-01-2021, 12:49 AM   #5592
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^^ Nice! Your Mom is a good sport!
100% haha. She has learned to enjoy the car as much as me On the other hand my dad will not get in the car until I quiet it down so I may have a custom valved exhaust made
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Old 01-01-2021, 07:32 AM   #5593
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Another youtuber ad.

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Old 01-01-2021, 07:36 AM   #5594
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Another youtuber ad.

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Who's been a member for quite some time. So, people aren't allowed to post a link to IG or you tube?
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Old 01-01-2021, 12:17 PM   #5595
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Hoping for some advice... 2013 FRS race car with a C38 kit. I blew the "original" engine in it shortly after purchase- suspect oil starve on long turns, but not the point right now.
I installed a 2017 engine and using the timing cover from the 2017-- I learned (the hard way) to cut away the boss for the idler pulley just behind the S/C so the belt doesn't rub.

The thing eats S/C belts every couple hours of track time- strips the rib closest to the engine. all idler pulleys have been checked/replaced if they had any play in them, and I can't see any clearance issues.

I *assume* all the JRSC kits are the same between 2013 and 2017 engines- at least regarding installation hardware.. ??
Any other ideas to look at on this car? next step is to attempt to take a laser level thingy and try to check pulley alignment, but that won't be easy and likely not accurate. hoping someone has some ideas where to look.
thanks!
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Old 01-01-2021, 01:53 PM   #5596
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Another youtuber ad.

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Sure, just ignore 99% of the post and call out an insignificant youtube link lol. You may not like it but trust me, people are looking for that information - I definitely was. And I still get these questions, so this will be a place I can link people back to easily.

I'm just trying to provide some different accessible sources of information because honestly there isn't a ton of video out there for visual learners for this kit. I pieced together my expectations from probably 50 different posts and sources other than this thread over months and am happy if what info I can provide helps someone else in my situation.

Sorry if you don't approve

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Who's been a member for quite some time. So, people aren't allowed to post a link to IG or you tube?
Lol yeah I don't post often but I have been using the forums for a long time now and have something worth giving back to help others. I know it'll help someone. I appreciate all the content and information I've found on the forum and subreddit - this community always impresses me!
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Old 01-01-2021, 04:04 PM   #5597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt93SE View Post
Hoping for some advice... 2013 FRS race car with a C38 kit. I blew the "original" engine in it shortly after purchase- suspect oil starve on long turns, but not the point right now.
I installed a 2017 engine and using the timing cover from the 2017-- I learned (the hard way) to cut away the boss for the idler pulley just behind the S/C so the belt doesn't rub.

The thing eats S/C belts every couple hours of track time- strips the rib closest to the engine. all idler pulleys have been checked/replaced if they had any play in them, and I can't see any clearance issues.

I *assume* all the JRSC kits are the same between 2013 and 2017 engines- at least regarding installation hardware.. ??
Any other ideas to look at on this car? next step is to attempt to take a laser level thingy and try to check pulley alignment, but that won't be easy and likely not accurate. hoping someone has some ideas where to look.
thanks!
I've spent hundreds of hours on track with various JRSCs without belt issues.

Change your idler pulleys regularly, check for play, and make sure your belt is properly aligned.

Shock loads with jarring shifts can cause the belt to jump, when the tensioner can't keep up with the abusive shift.

All kits 13-20 are identical in belt placement/orientation/alignment.
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Old 01-01-2021, 04:25 PM   #5598
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I had a belt issue for a while and then going over pictures of installs realized I had a stock ribbed pulley where I should of had a smooth 73mm pulley that came with the kit. after I added all the right pulleys I never had another belt issue.
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I swear I will punch your car if you put these on. Right in the face.
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Old 01-01-2021, 06:49 PM   #5599
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Thanks gents. I'll check all the pulleys again. Most/all of them were replaced when I put the engine in over the summer. I'll go over them all and check again vs. the install manual
might also change the tensioner just to be sure.
I did miss a shift during the race and that may have shocked/overspun the assembly and caused the belt to jump. BUT this is the 2nd belt that's done it in 2 race weekends so I suspect another problem may be hiding somewhere.
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Old 01-02-2021, 09:31 AM   #5600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt93SE View Post
Thanks gents. I'll check all the pulleys again. Most/all of them were replaced when I put the engine in over the summer. I'll go over them all and check again vs. the install manual
might also change the tensioner just to be sure.
I did miss a shift during the race and that may have shocked/overspun the assembly and caused the belt to jump. BUT this is the 2nd belt that's done it in 2 race weekends so I suspect another problem may be hiding somewhere.
Make sure you use the stock pulleys, my belt was slipping because I had aftermarket lighter pulleys. The issue was resolved when I put the stock ones back on.
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