10-14-2016, 04:01 PM | #407 |
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Seriously, it's amazing that anything over 2,500 lbs gets called a sports car. Such a shame how we've lost what makes a sports car a sports car.
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10-14-2016, 04:03 PM | #408 | |
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OEM recommendation is "An oil of higher viscosity is recommended if vehicle is used as high speeds and loads" or similar wording in Australian vehicle manual. see here different wording in vehicle manuals different countries http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=40 |
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10-14-2016, 04:05 PM | #409 |
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If i hearken back to my powertrain systems class, think about the power output of those engines and less about the displacement. power out has to be more or less scaled by power in. the differences between engines that have better or worse ratios of this has to do with the vehicle's overall efficiency (engine losses, drivetrain losses, aerodynamics) a 90's camry v6 for example: just over 180 at the crank if i remember right. the japanese automakers were pretty good at making efficient engines so this is a decent enough comparison. the amount of power in (amount of fuel in) is indicative of the power out. so similar or better numbers than a car outputting 200 hp isnt too surprising. (setting aside weight, Cd, drivetrain configuration, engine tuning goals)
Edit: i read that post back after posting...im not sure if i make much sense, or if im just rambling again
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10-14-2016, 04:11 PM | #410 |
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It's really more a combination of driver and road's driven. If you give any vehicle to the same group of drivers you will have an almost exact equal distribution of fuel mileage we see here. That's because real world is just that, real world, and that is different for everyone.
For example, nearly every car I have had as a DD I get at or above the "combined" EPA rating. That's because my commute almost mirrors the standard used for the combined. It is pretty constant for me, and would be regardless of what I drive. Others that drive in the city, or stop and go, are going to get lower, no matter what they drive. On the FR-S, I get above the highway rating on average which is an anomaly I admit. I remain amazed at the MPG I get because I do NOTHING to earn it other than not drive in stop and go. I really expected to be around 28 (the combined) at best. As far as the "its a sports car, why do you care?". Well, after having driven well over a million documented miles in my life, I have found that regardless of what you drive paying attention to the fuel mileage tells you how the car is performing. If I was driving a Lambo or a Ferrari I would still "care", I just have realistic expectations of what I'm caring about. For example, a Aventador is rated at 11/18. I would want to get in the middle but would only be concerned if it dropped below 11, assuming my current driving habits. Heck, I even do that with my lawn mower. I know I can cut my grass twice on a single tank of fuel. If suddenly I had to refuel after once, I'd be looking for a leak.
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10-14-2016, 04:25 PM | #411 | |
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10-14-2016, 08:14 PM | #412 | |
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Bottom line is 5W-30 is OK , so I will switch to Castrol Edge 5W-30 SN synthetic, especially as it never gets very cold where I live and it was on special at half the price of Toyota's and Subaru 0W-20. (Actually I have been Honda's 0W-20 synth SN GF5 at $55 for 5L.) Pity I did an oil change only 2 days ago. BTW , this time I used a Ryco Z79AST which uses a synthetic medium claimed to filter 99.8% of particles >25microns and suitable for extended changes to 15000km and has teflon on the seal. It only costs a few dollars more so I will change it every second change at around 9000km. Another thing I noted with this Ryco was a plating on the metal part with the thread. I always run my finger around the thread to remove machining-metal shards which I always found ... but not this time!!
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10-15-2016, 05:18 PM | #413 | |
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The other statement in Aussie manual is " 0W20 is filled into your Subaru vehicle at manufacturing and the best choice for good fuel economy and starting is cold weather" so you can deduct from the two statements that if you want best economy and easy starting in cold (their likely taking sub zero temps) weather go 0w20. If you drive hard/track in hot climate then 5W30 is likely the better choice if you don't run oil cooler as you going to see oil temps in 120C plus region |
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10-15-2016, 09:17 PM | #414 |
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I am getting about 15 mpg with e85, but boy is it a fun 15 miles.
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10-15-2016, 09:37 PM | #415 |
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It has just occurred to me that running thicker oil will cause the engine to heat up faster, thus reducing fuel consumption during the warmup period. These cars warm up more slowly than my previous under the same conditions and the thin oil may be a reason. The previous car used 10W-40. For people who do a higher proportion of short trips from cold, e.g. < 7Km back and forth to work 5 days a week, 5W-30 might actually reduce their consumption a bit.
Over time these considerations add up.
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10-15-2016, 09:51 PM | #416 | |
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10-15-2016, 11:41 PM | #417 | |
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10-16-2016, 02:59 AM | #418 | |
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It would seem to me to be just the opposite. Then you site an apple / orange thing ....... YIKES! I know that water swirls in a different direction going down the sink down there, but give me a break ....... humfrz |
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10-16-2016, 04:03 PM | #419 |
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This thread started as nonsense and getting worse everyday. Lock or delete it please.
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10-16-2016, 04:10 PM | #420 |
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The small amount of research I did states that thinner oil is used to increase fuel economy. Going to a thicker oil would do just the opposite
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