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Old 05-13-2015, 08:37 PM   #6357
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So when vacuum is applied (idle) it should look like your second photo? Or the first photo? Sorry I'm just not following.
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Old 05-13-2015, 09:22 PM   #6358
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Okay I think I'm understanding this now. So you just loosened the bottom bolt on the actuator bracket to re-position the actuator so it doesn't lock in that over center position when vacuum is applied.
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Old 05-13-2015, 10:06 PM   #6359
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Correct!
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Old 05-13-2015, 11:19 PM   #6360
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You're actually all really close. The recirc valve is clockable with the upper and lower bolts. Clock that particular one more counter-clockwise.



You want a mild bit of preload on the steel rod and you get that with clocking the slots holes. I think you set that one a little too loose. They over rotate with no preload. That's part of our quality checks.

The cam is for adjusting the closed position of the butterfly inside. That has to be in the right place for it to seal correctly in a seated position. The steel arm does that.

The diaphragm runs off of vacuum like several other stock recirc configurations. It's not exactly like a wastegate actuator, even though it does look really similar.

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Old 05-14-2015, 07:37 AM   #6361
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Any photos of correct positioning @SprintexUSA
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Old 05-14-2015, 11:28 AM   #6362
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Here you go. I think you can see the preload in the first pic and the different hole slot position relative to the above pics. In the bottom pic, I'm pulling on the stamped arm and can't physically make it over-center. You get that with proper clocking of the recirc diaphragm.
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Old 05-14-2015, 11:58 AM   #6363
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Awesome, Thanks
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Old 05-15-2015, 02:08 PM   #6364
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Originally Posted by SprintexUSA View Post
Here you go. I think you can see the preload in the first pic and the different hole slot position relative to the above pics. In the bottom pic, I'm pulling on the stamped arm and can't physically make it over-center. You get that with proper clocking of the recirc diaphragm.
Can I safely remove the blower from the manifold in order to get to these parts, so I don't have to endure the difficulty that is removing the entire thing?
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Old 05-15-2015, 02:38 PM   #6365
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Another minor weak point on the Sprintex

I noticed that my fuel economy had been dropping over the last few weeks. Eventually I traced it to a split in the rubber elbow that connects to the tube going to the actuator. Under idle conditions I could hear a slight hiss. Net result was that the recirc valve was not opening fully. I managed to get a replacement at O'Reilly. Now economy is back to normal
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Old 05-15-2015, 03:16 PM   #6366
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Can I safely remove the blower from the manifold in order to get to these parts, so I don't have to endure the difficulty that is removing the entire thing?
It's actually best to do with the blower off. You aren't forced to, but that does make it easier.

Just to say it:
-Get some 3/32 o-ring cord from a rubber supply store.
-No need to use OR get greedy with sealant. We don't use any on that part of the unit.
-Don't get greedy with torque on the 6x20 bolts (8ft.lbs. Snugged tight with a wrench, basically.)

As for that rubber elbow, it's a tight fit. If you don't lube it then you can indeed tear it.
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Old 05-15-2015, 05:15 PM   #6367
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SprintexUSA View Post
It's actually best to do with the blower off. You aren't forced to, but that does make it easier.

Just to say it:
-Get some 3/32 o-ring cord from a rubber supply store.
-No need to use OR get greedy with sealant. We don't use any on that part of the unit.
-Don't get greedy with torque on the 6x20 bolts (8ft.lbs. Snugged tight with a wrench, basically.)

As for that rubber elbow, it's a tight fit. If you don't lube it then you can indeed tear it.
What is the "3/32 o-ring cord" for?
Someone earlier removed the throttle elbow assembly to replace the plastic fittings. I think this would also give access to the actuator components. Would this be advised, or are there some other complications with this approach?
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Old 05-16-2015, 12:23 PM   #6368
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Originally Posted by SprintexUSA View Post
It's actually best to do with the blower off. You aren't forced to, but that does make it easier.

Just to say it:
-Get some 3/32 o-ring cord from a rubber supply store.
-No need to use OR get greedy with sealant. We don't use any on that part of the unit.
-Don't get greedy with torque on the 6x20 bolts (8ft.lbs. Snugged tight with a wrench, basically.)

As for that rubber elbow, it's a tight fit. If you don't lube it then you can indeed tear it.
So, holy cow this was just great timing. I'd been having trouble with too lean DTC codes. Fixed the bypass valve this morning and the codes are gone and the car is so much faster it's UNREAL.

Guys, check your valve! If you can turn it all the way around, something is wrong.
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Old 05-18-2015, 02:41 PM   #6369
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What is the "3/32 o-ring cord" for?
Someone earlier removed the throttle elbow assembly to replace the plastic fittings. I think this would also give access to the actuator components. Would this be advised, or are there some other complications with this approach?
No need to remove that casting. The less you take apart of the system, the better. I think it's our fault for not clarifying assembly/disassembly for the general public. We're working on that and making picture albums on Facebook.

We call that "elbow" the "inlet casting", BTW. (You'd be surprised the at the translation issues, even when both sides of the pond speak their version of English.)

The 3/32 cord is just for the blower/mounting plate cutout. Trim it to 820mm and it will fit right in. Laying a large o-ring in that cutout is nearly impossible. The cord lays in there without a fuss.
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Old 05-18-2015, 02:47 PM   #6370
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SprintexUSA View Post
No need to remove that casting. The less you take apart of the system, the better. I think it's our fault for not clarifying assembly/disassembly for the general public. We're working on that and making picture albums on Facebook.

We call that "elbow" the "inlet casting", BTW. (You'd be surprised the at the translation issues, even when both sides of the pond speak their version of English.)

The 3/32 cord is just for the blower/mounting plate cutout. Trim it to 820mm and it will fit right in. Laying a large o-ring in that cutout is nearly impossible. The cord lays in there without a fuss.
LOL -- I am a Brit living in Texas, so I sympathize Thanks for clarifying the cord purpose.
I must admit I am still a bit puzzled. I thought it would be easier to remove the "inlet casting" in-situ (6 bolts), rather than the blower assembly from the manifold???
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