Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[silent runner]

Originally Posted by raven1231

Anyone else notice the system having sporadic power differences? What I mean is one day it will pull great and push you back in your seat, and other days it will make noise like you're going somewhere but feel significantly slower with no "pull" feeling at all. I thought maybe it was just differences in temperature and or humidity but starting to wonder if something might be loose of have a bad connection???

I wonder if it might be a combination of factors..., after you check out the connections, thing. I have noticed very significant differences in "pull", when you combine a couple of things like this. If It's a really hot day, and I haven't done a couple of pulls within a near time range (to condition the batteries), it can feel quite flat compared to peak situations. Heat though is the enemy of all FI, my old Mazda 626Turbo (boosting at 12psi), used to really fall on it's face on 80-90 degree farenheight days, with a very small intercooler. It was a totally different car at 40-50 degrees.

That old Mazda had a 7.8:1 compression ratio, My Camry V-6, has 9.7:1, you guys are massively higher than this. With no charge cooling, heat is going to play a big factor in what kind of power your engines are going to make with any FI.

My best results to date have been in quickly taking the car out of my heated garage, into near freezing temperatures, making a couple of quick boosted runs to condition the batteries, and then cutting it loose to do a 0-60 run of about 6 seconds flat. (and traction limited) - Not bad for a car that takes about 8.5 seconds to do that without Phantom supercharger boosting.

That last peice from the tuners, was a neat read, but I thought I might steer it back to the results of the guys driving this system for a second.

[raven1231]

Originally Posted by silent runner

I wonder if it might be a combination of factors..., after you check out the connections, thing. I have noticed very significant differences in "pull", when you combine a couple of things like this. If It's a really hot day, and I haven't done a couple of pulls within a near time range (to condition the batteries), it can feel quite flat compared to peak situations. Heat though is the enemy of all FI, my old Mazda 626Turbo (boosting at 12psi), used to really fall on it's face on 80-90 degree farenheight days, with a very small intercooler. It was a totally different car at 40-50 degrees.

That old Mazda had a 7.8:1 compression ratio, My Camry V-6, has 9.7:1, you guys are massively higher than this. With no charge cooling, heat is going to play a big factor in what kind of power your engines are going to make with any FI.

My best results to date have been in quickly taking the car out of my heated garage, into near freezing temperatures, making a couple of quick boosted runs to condition the batteries, and then cutting it loose to do a 0-60 run of about 6 seconds flat. (and traction limited) - Not bad for a car that takes about 8.5 seconds to do that without Phantom supercharger boosting.

That last peice from the tuners, was a neat read, but I thought I might steer it back to the results of the guys driving this system for a second.

Thanks for the input! I orginally thought it might have been temperature as it has been right around 90 almost everyday. I'll be taking the whole thing apart on Thursday. Hopefully ill know more then.

[Boofneenee]

Originally Posted by raven1231

Thanks for the input! I orginally thought it might have been temperature as it has been right around 90 almost everyday. I'll be taking the whole thing apart on Thursday. Hopefully ill know more then.

Advanced. Mult running at a 1?

[raven1231]

Originally Posted by Boofneenee

Advanced. Mult running at a 1?

Yes sir

[enwave]

Y'all, I've noticed that the 1.0tune seems to be performing better than the 1.5tune for me in terms of power. Drive ability is much better on the1.5pack tune though. I'm curious if the fact that I live at pretty high altitude might be affecting my AFR/boost levels, making my high-altitude 1.5 feel like a low altitude 1.0, making the 1.0 tune the more accurate one for me.

Should I go back to using the 1.00pack tune on my 1.5pack setup? Just curious what you all think.


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[fenton]

Originally Posted by enwave

Y'all, I've noticed that the 1.0tune seems to be performing better than the 1.5tune for me in terms of power. Drive ability is much better on the1.5pack tune though. I'm curious if the fact that I live at pretty high altitude might be affecting my AFR/boost levels, making my high-altitude 1.5 feel like a low altitude 1.0, making the 1.0 tune the more accurate one for me.

Should I go back to using the 1.00pack tune on my 1.5pack setup? Just curious what you all think.


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I've thought maybe our altitude was a factor in getting the right afrs... Do you bottom out the sensor at 11.x for the whole wot run too?

It is probably best for us to just get a protune for our altitude. I'm at 3500ft.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by enwave

Y'all, I've noticed that the 1.0tune seems to be performing better than the 1.5tune for me in terms of power. Drive ability is much better on the1.5pack tune though. I'm curious if the fact that I live at pretty high altitude might be affecting my AFR/boost levels, making my high-altitude 1.5 feel like a low altitude 1.0, making the 1.0 tune the more accurate one for me.

Should I go back to using the 1.00pack tune on my 1.5pack setup? Just curious what you all think.


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That's weird. I love the 2.0 tune. Are you an at or mt?

[enwave]

AT at 4500ft -- AFR did look like it was in the 11.x range at WOT. I'll have to see if it is bottoming out or not.


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[Thobjo]

Sorry if this is not the right place but kinda frustrated.
Have tried several PMs and mails directly but no answer.
Really would like to get my name on the list as I am interested in the product

[fenton]

Originally Posted by Thobjo

Sorry if this is not the right place but kinda frustrated.
Have tried several PMs and mails directly but no answer.
Really would like to get my name on the list as I am interested in the product

If you have pmd Rob your name is on the list. Rob doesn't come on the forum too much as he owns and operates a heavy duty machine shop as well as a almost second full job of creating and supporting the phantoms sc's.

Us members on this forum try to help answer as many questions as we can and only when we can't answer them do I engage Rob so he doesn't burn up too much of his time.

The list is now exceedingly long and supply is way below demand. Rob is doing his best to push out kits in a timely manner but constant hold ups with custom parts coming in is slowing things down a bit.

This is one of the main reasons that Rob will never take anyone's money until their supercharger is packed up with a shipping label on it.

[Robftss]

Originally Posted by fenton

If you have pmd Rob your name is on the list. Rob doesn't come on the forum too much as he owns and operates a heavy duty machine shop as well as a almost second full job of creating and supporting the phantoms sc's.

Us members on this forum try to help answer as many questions as we can and only when we can't answer them do I engage Rob so he doesn't burn up too much of his time.

The list is now exceedingly long and supply is way below demand. Rob is doing his best to push out kits in a timely manner but constant hold ups with custom parts coming in is slowing things down a bit.

This is one of the main reasons that Rob will never take anyone's money until their supercharger is packed up with a shipping label on it.

Thks Fenton and all the new interested people.
I will be revising the installl manual, after ~30 kits it looks like step by step, circles/arrows, and check boxes are required. I may tag wires and reference them to a # operation, torque specs as well... since 'tighten' is to subjective. I need to evaluate one re-charge board failure and a control board failure. This is ALL new stuff and is primarily a development product not a mass produced product... it can't be... there is 'more' potential here. I'm excited

Rob.

[raven1231]

Originally Posted by Robftss

Thks Fenton and all the new interested people.
I will be revising the installl manual, after ~30 kits it looks like step by step, circles/arrows, and check boxes are required. I may tag wires and reference them to a # operation, torque specs as well... since 'tighten' is to subjective. I need to evaluate one re-charge board failure and a control board failure. This is ALL new stuff and is primarily a development product not a mass produced product... it can't be... there is 'more' potential here. I'm excited

Rob.

We appreciate all your hard work Rob as well as the contribution to this platform!

[enwave]

Originally Posted by Robftss

Thks Fenton and all the new interested people.
I will be revising the installl manual, after ~30 kits it looks like step by step, circles/arrows, and check boxes are required. I may tag wires and reference them to a # operation, torque specs as well... since 'tighten' is to subjective. I need to evaluate one re-charge board failure and a control board failure. This is ALL new stuff and is primarily a development product not a mass produced product... it can't be... there is 'more' potential here. I'm excited

Rob.

Sounds good to me! If I can put in one piece of feedback, it would be suggestions on how to optimally route wires, particularly the voltmeter/throttle switch pair. It took me a bit to route them correctly keeping them away from snag points and exhaust components, and I bet that could be super helpful for some of the less creative installers.

I might also add little things like facing the controller eyelets toward the controller when attaching to post rings, as that helps the battery cover sit better and makes battery tie down and battery positioning much easier.

Just a few minor suggestions for people who buy in the future!

Thanks Rob! Gotta dumb it down for some of us


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[Gary in NJ]

Originally Posted by enwave

Sounds good to me! If I can put in one piece of feedback, it would be suggestions on how to optimally route wires, particularly the voltmeter/throttle switch pair. It took me a bit to route them correctly keeping them away from snag points and exhaust components, and I bet that could be super helpful for some of the less creative installers.

I've had the opportunity to install a few of the cockpit/control harnesses. By far, the best route is to keep the harness "high in the dash". By this I mean do not simply stay low above the transmission hump, but rather go high in the dash behind the radio and high behind the glove box. Going this way it's easy to install (and uninstall) with no slack to tie up.