JUN GT SURGE TANK FOR FT86/BRZ

[Spartarus]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

Are these build to handle boost or high revs? There is a difference between these two things.

JE 315120. They're not built for turbo. They're actually footnoted for nitrous applications...

Theyre only 13 grams heavier than stock.. 4%.

They'll rev just fine... but good luck running pump gas. This engine is already knock limited well before MBT.

You'd have to hope the power rises more than the knock threshold falls, because you'll be pulling some timing no matter what.

With E85 though? Ooh man that's a whole other ballgame.

Speaking of revs, the oil pressure will give up sharply somewhere not far from 8250. Don't push it when you find it. The oil pressure limit is absolute.

[stevo_12v]

Originally Posted by Cybmx

Hi Stevo, what kind of reverse light is that? Could you post a link to that light? I like it quite a lot. TIA

https://www.autobarn.com.au/ledautol...smd-leds-135wm

Part number is : 135WM

[Reamer]

Can't wait to compare @celek 's ITB setup to this, as I would expect ITB's to be targeting the same goal but I'm not 100% about that. I've heard tuning for ITB's is more difficult but that's only stepping further into the abyss of the unknown to me.

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[celek]

Originally Posted by Reamer

Can't wait to compare @celek 's ITB setup to this, as I would expect ITB's to be targeting the same goal but I'm not 100% about that. I've heard tuning for ITB's is more difficult but that's only stepping further into the abyss of the unknown to me.

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Speaking with Moto East at SEMA he encouraged the ability to tune ITBs with no MAF.
Should be fine for tuning. As for Daily use the problem with ITBs is how open they are to the elements with lack of filtration. This is something I have to work on.

[Teseo]

Originally Posted by celek

Speaking with Moto East at SEMA he encouraged the ability to tune ITBs with no MAF.
Should be fine for tuning. As for Daily use the problem with ITBs is how open they are to the elements with lack of filtration. This is something I have to work on.

What about those plenum with filters? Better this than nothing imo.

[FRS Justin]

I would like to see the results with a decent set of cams,,,,,
I just cant justify 3100 bucks for 12hp

[Reamer]

Originally Posted by Teseo

What about those plenum with filters? Better this than nothing imo.

Or something like what JUN did with the Synergy build, where it was ITB's contained within an intake, but this increases the amount of custom work to be done and few people have the same budget as JUN.

Didn't mean to thread jack, just interested in both options.

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[Traktor]

I note with the Crawford blocks installed peak power still only comes in at 6700 rpm. I'd be keen to see what happens if they are removed as presumably the power may only peak a few hundred rpm higher, but within the factory rev limiter?
As in there may be no real need to rev to 8000, even if that is where the "resonance" is?


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[Dr. BRZ]

Originally Posted by stevo_12v

I forgot to add this photo, thought I put it up, but must have been on my FB page. Has the torque marked on this

Update? New dyno? E85?

[stevo_12v]

Originally Posted by Dr. BRZ

Update? New dyno? E85?

Nah not yet. Car's been off the road for a while.. maybe in a couple of weeks. Going for a full rebuild, HKS turbo kit, E85, bigger injectors, 10.5 CR, titanium valvetrain.

Will easily double that dyno figure at any rate

[stevo_12v]

Originally Posted by nikitopo

This intake manifold is designed for a high revving NA engine. You'll need to build now the engine with their forged aluminum piston kit and their rods. The pistons are build in Capricorn Germany and they increase the compression ratio to 13.0:1. I am sure that after the engine build, you'll have the strongest NA build running on pump gas. Forget all these guys trying to build such a car the last 3-4 years. They're just promising all these years and still have nothing.

Btw., I don't agree to install a turbo. Your changes are focused more for a NA setup .

Haha thanks. But sorry! going turbo!
I decided that if I'm going to the trouble/wait/expense to have the engine out I may as well go to the dark side. Going for a decent build though..

HKS GT-IIIRS turbo kit
Outfront closed deck FA20
JE Pistons 10.5
Carillo Rods
HKS headgasket
HKS Plugs
HKS Fine Tune V Belt
New OEM Crank(with "WPC" treatment) [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSiC7D8patU"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSiC7D8patU[/ame]
King Race bearings
ARP studs
GSC Titanium valves and springs
ID1100
TODA Racing Oil Pump Gear
Billion radiator piping
GReddy aluminium radiator filler neck
Updated GReddy lightweight pulley
KOYO Racing radiator
+ E85

New Exedy clutch

[prandelia]

Bringing this thread back from the dead. The forum now has one more person crazy enough to do this. I just bought a JUN GT surge tank (manifold), and will post up some E85 dyno numbers from my race car.

If you are on E85, obviously you want to keep revving the motor, so this manifold should respond really well to E85/high compression. Not sure how high I will rev, but based on my gearing calculations for my 4.556 final drive, I really would like to go to 7900-8000 RPM to keep my same mph with my current 4.3 FD. That's ideal. Obviously I won't shift at 8K all the time, but it would be helpful to be able to stretch out the gear occasionally when needed on track. Plenty of people going to 7800, and some to 8000, so I'm not overly concerned, especially with a '15+ valvetrain. '17+ would be ideal, but that will be my next motor anyway.

My take is, it's pricey, but is way easier to do/install than a +1 valve/head job, but seems to make the same power (or more), and can be removed and installed on any motor, so is a good investment if you are committed to NA and/or specific racing series, which I am. So making power past 7150 RPM (my peak), along with 4.556 gearing...that should make for fairly explosive acceleration to whatever redline is chosen.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by prandelia

along with 4.556 gearing...that should make for fairly explosive acceleration to whatever redline is chosen.

Interested in how you like the new gearing as well. I am running 4.3 which I am pretty happy with.

Is that an APR GTC200 you are running?

[PulsarBeeerz]

Originally Posted by prandelia

Bringing this thread back from the dead. The forum now has one more person crazy enough to do this. I just bought a JUN GT surge tank (manifold), and will post up some E85 dyno numbers from my race car.

If you are on E85, obviously you want to keep revving the motor, so this manifold should respond really well to E85/high compression. Not sure how high I will rev, but based on my gearing calculations for my 4.556 final drive, I really would like to go to 7900-8000 RPM to keep my same mph with my current 4.3 FD. That's ideal. Obviously I won't shift at 8K all the time, but it would be helpful to be able to stretch out the gear occasionally when needed on track. Plenty of people going to 7800, and some to 8000, so I'm not overly concerned, especially with a '15+ valvetrain. '17+ would be ideal, but that will be my next motor anyway.

My take is, it's pricey, but is way easier to do/install than a +1 valve/head job, but seems to make the same power (or more), and can be removed and installed on any motor, so is a good investment if you are committed to NA and/or specific racing series, which I am. So making power past 7150 RPM (my peak), along with 4.556 gearing...that should make for fairly explosive acceleration to whatever redline is chosen.

Very interesting man! I thank you for being crazy enough to make the purchase and sharing the results with the community.