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12-15-2013, 06:21 PM | #1 |
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Combating the heat
So for those who have gone with a turbo charger fighting heat can be a big battle. I can't speak for the supercharger owners so if any of you who have I welcome you to chime in.
I would like to know what others are doing to battle the heat that builds up in the engine bay. Today I went with a few others on a mountain run and when we started going up hill and through the turns I noticed my temps started to raise. I pulled over before I got to hot and had to cool down. In fact I had to do this a few times before turning around and going down hill. Down hill was fine but I was coasting more then I was boosting so I think that had a big role I'm keeping temps down. On the highway I seem to be fine unless running it hard. I have for cooling help Full Blown radiator Mishimoto oil cooler Exhaust wrapping from manifold through the down pipe. No bottom metal skid panel And the fog lights removed to provide air to the oil cooler. Braided hoses for oil and coolant. Running full blown stage 1 kit On order turbo heat cover by DEI |
12-15-2013, 06:54 PM | #2 |
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My car is getting almost the same setup you have presently. I'm running the Robispec radiator/oil cooler, but basically the same as you.
I'm planning on cutting on the fender garnishes, turning them into fender vents. Others use the carbon vented hoods, which probably work the best at removing heat from the engine bay. |
12-15-2013, 07:04 PM | #3 |
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I'm getting a vented hood and getting it paint matched. Just trying to find something that isn't too crazy
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12-15-2013, 07:10 PM | #4 |
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@toekneehair what kind of temperatures were you getting, also what was the outside temperature?
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12-15-2013, 09:00 PM | #5 | |
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I have a 25 row setrab oil cooler, Koyo radiator, turbo blanket, vented fenders, and yes, it will get dangerously warm if pushed hard for a long period of time on my FBM turbo kit. 2-3 minutes of boost can cause coolant temperatures to start creeping past 107 C. Traffic requires the heater on when the ambient temps are above 90 F. The FBM kit has a design flaw with the downpipe in my opinion. I think they've curved it in the way they did to give the MAF and cam sensor as much room as possible, but in doing so, it forces you to use slim fans without a shroud. This results in excessive temps in traffic. @toekneehair , look on the bright side--mine caught on fire the first trip up the mountain. It looks like the mountain is 2 and 0 as I didn't make it up either. |
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12-15-2013, 09:10 PM | #6 |
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Would fabricating shrouds around the FB fans help things? IMO it wouldn't be too hard to make shrouds around the fans that fit around the downpipe.
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12-15-2013, 09:12 PM | #7 | |
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Beyond that, I'm not certain what to do to the combat heat as I'm far from an expert. More efficient radiator perhaps? I'm not thrilled by the prospect of the oil cooler / radiator combo. Makes sense for the track, but on a street car it looks like it's asking for trouble. |
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12-15-2013, 09:18 PM | #8 |
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Welcome to the reason I hate the FBM kit turbo location. Slim fans have always been bad you could consider doing push fans in front but they aren't that efficient either.
Last edited by ciro; 12-15-2013 at 11:57 PM. Reason: Turbo location not the kit |
12-15-2013, 09:20 PM | #9 |
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@FullBlown care to shed some light on this heating issue and if it's a problem you guys are aware of?
I thought by the temps would have been same as NA if not better with ceramic coated pieces & heat wrapped, turbo blanket, fbm radiator and fbm oil cooler? Hope I don't have overheating issues with my FBM kit
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12-15-2013, 09:51 PM | #10 |
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Does anyone have a picture of how close the down pipe is to the fans?
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12-15-2013, 09:53 PM | #11 |
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I don't think FBM is the only kit generating heat here though. And besides under extreme conditions I think the kit has been holding up well. I like the idea of designing a good shroud for the fans that work with the slim fans. The could help some and I'm thinking about the same with the hood. I wanted to get the FA style hood I believe. The one with the center hood scoop and vents on the side. I feel like that would move lots of air.
Full blown has been extremely helpful thus far with my build. But I think I might have to get a little creative with the air thing. What about replacing the front bumper and altering the actual metal bumper underneath allow for better air flow there? |
12-15-2013, 10:06 PM | #12 |
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The problem is the car's engine bay is sealed off like an oven. We have found that guys who were in the middle east with crazy hot ambient temperatures had heat problems even with a stock car.
The lower aluminum splash guard can be removed so the the hot air has a place to escape. We also will have a shroud coming to help pull more heat away, but the main problem is venting. Whether it is our kit or not, power creates heat, and you have to find a way to remove it from the engine bay. |
12-15-2013, 10:06 PM | #13 |
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I thought about the same thing, but I think the problem lies with not being able to get the engine bay air OUT.
I found this crash bar that looks like it will still offer front protection but also let a lot more air in. http://www.enjukuracing.com/products...Scion-FRS.html |
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12-15-2013, 10:12 PM | #14 | |
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