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Old 06-30-2021, 11:29 PM   #1
FR-S2GT86
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DIY: '19-up Harman Base Audio / OEM Door Speaker Amp Re-Integration

The "Magnuson-Moss" Version

First, what is the problem and what does this write-up address?

The problem:

Starting in 2019, Toyota released a Harman Base Audio head unit in the 86. For reasons known only to Harman and Toyota, the Harman head unit did not have a +12-volt output at the normal amplifier turn-on pin position in the back of the head unit itself, so it cannot turn the OEM door speaker amplifier on at all. The pin is present, but it is now a negative output as proven in post #131 in this thread here: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139286

The wire that connects to that pin however, remains in the ten-pin harness that plugs into the back of the head unit and runs all the way from there to the trunk of the car and terminates at the ten-pin door speaker amplifier plug. With all of the older head units, this wire would supply the +12-volt signal to turn the door speaker amplifier on in order for it to handle the two door speakers.

With this new Harman head unit, Toyota supplied their dealers with an installation/amp bypass kit which is installed at the same time the Harman head unit is installed by the dealers' technicians. See this document here: http://toyotaparts.sparkstoyota.com/...190-20inst.pdf

Coincidentally and unfortunately, this kit renders the door speaker amplifier useless and now forces the head unit to also play the two door speakers in addition to the rest of the six speakers in the system.

There are reports that this new Harman audio system architecture results in a significantly lower quality sounding overall audio experience. This is understandable seeing how prior to this change, the OEM door speaker amplifier would take the speaker-level signal from the front outputs of the older head units, filter them by removing the frequencies that are already being reproduced by the dash-mounted mid-range drivers (along with adding a subsonic filter for those ultra-low frequencies that can't be heard anyways), see post #17 in this thread here, https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145467
which talks about this frequency output curve that I plotted,
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and amplifies that signal, sending it up to each 6-1/2" door speaker, resulting in a cleaner, slightly louder and more accurate sound reproduction.

With this amplifier bypass kit installed, the head unit now must run the two door speakers unfiltered and unamplified through the bypass plug. These door speakers are rated at 2-ohms and are now wired in parallel with both the dash-mounted mid-range drivers and tweeters within the vehicles' front stage. It is my personal opinion, shared by a few others here that this presents too much of a load on the head units' internal speaker outputs, and in addition to the lack of filtration and external amplification, is the reason for the poor overall sound quality of this new Harman system.

How do you know if you have this dealer modification? Lift the floorboard in the trunk and examine the door speaker amplifier and its two plugs towards the left-side seat back. If the 10-pin harness has been pulled out of the amplifier and a yellow-wired jumper harness is attached to it instead, and both door speakers are playing sound, you have this modification. Alternatively, if there is no 15-amp fuse in the AMP position of the underdash fuse panel, and your door speakers are still playing sound, then you have this modification. However, please note that there have been reports that some of the dealers making this modification did not complete some of the steps in the instructions when installing the Harman head unit, so be aware that your jumper harness may not have been properly connected to the amplifier harness or may not have even been installed at all. If THIS is the case, then your door speakers will not be playing any sound at all and the entire system will sound very tinny with almost no frequency output below 3,000 Hz. The dash mid-range drivers have a 6dB/octave filter in the form of a 100 microfarad capacitor attached to them for a high-pass crossover value of 3,975 Hz. See post# 69 in this thread here: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7843

The solution and what this write-up addresses:

Re-integrate the OEM door speaker amplifier into the system so that the head unit will no longer have to power these 2-ohm door speakers, bringing the factory audio system sound back to pre-2019 level quality.

So why do I call this version of the write-up the "Magnuson-Moss" version? Because it shows you how to build a plug-and-play harness adapter for the back of the head unit, eliminating the need for cutting or de-pinning any of the stock wiring in the car.

Recommended Tools:

- Plastic Trim & Panel Prying/Removal Tools

- 1/4" Socket Wrench

- 10mm Socket

- 4" or 6" Socket Extension

- Wire Cutter/Stripper/Crimper

- Wire Connector De-Pinning Tools or a Heavy Gauge Sewing Needle

- Soldering Iron or Soldering Gun

- Lighter or Heat Gun

- Towel or Pillow

Necessary & Recommended Materials:

- One Scosche P/N (Part Number) TA02B, Toyota Car Stereo Adapter Harness (female plugs)

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The 10-pin harness of this part will plug into the OEM power/front speaker harness in the vehicle. The 6-pin harness will not be used.

- One Scosche P/N TA02RB, Toyota Car Stereo Reverse Adapter Harness (male plugs)

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The 10-pin harness of this part will plug into the Harman head unit. The 6-pin harness will not be used.

- One Scosche P/N LSAAB, Lexus/Scion/Toyota Antenna Adapter Harness

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After optional modification, this will plug into the antenna/antenna turn-on harness in the vehicle.

- One Scosche P/N LSAARB, Lexus/Scion/Toyota Antenna Reverse Adapter Harness

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After optional modification, this will plug into the Harman head unit.

- Rosin-Core Electrical Solder

- 1/8" Heat Shrink Tubing

- About One Foot of 1/2" Soft Split Loom Wiring Conduit

- Good Quality Electrical Tape

- One 15-Amp Mini-ATC Automotive Fuse

Note, this write-up assumes the reader has the necessary skills and materials to complete the construction of this plug-and-play harness. Please read all of these instructions prior to beginning the job to get an idea of what materials you will want to choose to complete it. The illustrations are numbered in the lower left corners and each one corresponds to each step. Let's begin.....

Building The Plug-And-Play Harness:

1) Remove only the 10-pin REVERSE harness (P/N TA02RB, male plug) from its package. I recommend leaving the 6-pin harness in the bag to be retained for future projects, you never know when you'll need the extra parts.

2) De-pin the blue wire from the molex plug. This can be accomplished by using your de-pinning tool or sewing needle. It may take several tries to find the right spot, but you want to release the tiny plastic clip that holds the pin in the plug from the pin side and lightly pull the wire out from the back side of the plug. I recommend holding the wire in a vise and holding the plug with one hand while you attempt to unclip it using the tool or needle with the other. Once you get the clip lifted up and away from the pin, the wire will easily slide right out. If you have to pull hard, the clip is not yet released, just be patient and gentle, but persistant. See the pictures below.

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2a Blue wire and pin to be removed.

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2b Hold plug in one hand in same orientation as in this picture, use tool at an angle just underneath and towards the metal pin in order to catch the plastic clip.

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2c Once plastic clip is caught, push the clip away from the pin by pushing the opposite end of the tool up.

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2d Once clip releases the metal pin, wire will slide easily out from the back.

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2e Blue wire de-pinned from male harness. Set this aside for now.

3) Remove only the 10-pin harness (P/N TA02B, female plug) from its package. Retain the 6-pin harness also as you did in step 1.

4) Using the same procedure as in step 2 above, de-pin BOTH blue wires from this harness. See the pictures below.

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4a Two blue wires and pins to be removed.

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4b De-pin the double blue wired pin first from the harness.

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4c It should slide right out once you push the plastic clip out and away from the metal pin.

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4d Now de-pin the thinner blue wire from the harness.

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4e Remember to push the plastic clip away from the metal pin.

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4f It should also slide easily out.


5) Once you have both pins/wires removed from the plug, cut the shorter wire off from the double-wired pin as close to the pin as possible, see pictures 5a and 5b. Paying close attention to the orientation of the plug and the pin in pictures 5c and 5d, reinsert the longer of the two separated blue wires back into the plug in the position next to the orange wire as can be seen in picture 5e. This completes the modification to the female harness, picture 5f.

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5f Female harness de-pin/re-pin is complete. Set this aside.

6) Remove the antenna adapter harness and the antenna reverse adapter harness from their respective packages.

7) At this point, you can either decide to plug the black Lexus-only male and female plugs together and skip on to step 9, or for a cleaner finished product, you can continue on to step 8.

8) Cut the Lexus-only black male and female plugs from the Motorola antenna connectors, leaving about 3/4" of antenna cable sticking out, pictures 8a and 8b. Strip the outer cable insulation of both "stubs" about 1/4" back and cut the outer shield conductors down to where you cut the outer insulation, pictures 8c and 8d. This is so that the inner antenna conductor wire and outer shield conductor wires can't touch each other, picture 8e. If they do touch, you will have no AM/FM reception. Heat shrink the two stubs, picture 8f.

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9) Grab some 1/8" heat shrink tubing and cut enough pieces about an inch and-a-quarter long to slide over each wire on one of the 10-pin harness plugs, picture 9a. Begin soldering each color-coded wire from each of the two 10-pin harnesses together. My preferred method is to twist the wires together 9b, solder 9c, then bend one of the wires back 9d, and heat shrink 9e. All three of the blue wires between the 10-pin female harness and the two antenna harnesses will also be soldered together. Use your favorite soldering tool and preferred method of soldering and heat shrinking. During the soldering process, orient the female plugs on one side of the assembly and the male plugs on the other, picture 9f.

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10) Finish your new amplifier re-Integration harness assembly by sliding some 1/2" split loom wire conduit over all of the wires, leaving most of the blue wire and the antenna cables free as you can see in picture 10, to allow the new harness to be plugged into their respective plugs and receptacles. Wrap it up with some electrical tape for a finished product. I labelled the head unit end of the harness because I'm sending this one to Tcoat.

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11) Your new harness should also be fairly flexible for installation behind the Harman head unit.

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12) Now on to installing the harness. Using your plastic trim removal tools, remove the dash trim from around the OEM Harman head unit.

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13) Remove the four 10mm bolts holding the Harman head unit in place,
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and cover your shifter and dash area underneath the head unit with a towel or pillow to keep from scratching either the dash, head unit, or your shifter. Slide the head unit out of the dash opening.

14) Unplug only the antenna connector and the 10-pin connector from the back of the head unit, then allow the head unit to lay on the towel or pillow.

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14 This is the older OEM head unit from my 2015 FR-S used as an example only. Your Harman head unit will be similarly configured in the back.

15) Install your newly assembled harness between the vehicles' 10-pin power/speaker and antenna dash harnesses, and the head unit, into their respective plugs and receptacles. They'll only fit one way so you can't make a mistake here.

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16) Making sure all of the connectors are properly secure, slide the head unit back into the dash opening, resecure it with the 10mm bolts, and snap the trim back into place.

17) Lift your trunk floorboard to access the OEM door speaker amplifier,
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unplug the yellow-wired bypass/jumper plug from the 10-pin amplifier harness if it was installed, and plug the male 10-pin amplifier harness into your OEM amplifier.
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Make sure the 6-pin amplifier harness plug is also plugged into the amplifier.
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You will no longer need the bypass plug, but retain it so that you can reinstall it just in case you have to take your car in for warranty service related to the audio system, though I predict that you will never have to do this, as most dealer technicians will be clueless as to how this Harman system is supposed to be set up.

18) Reinstall the trunk floor board.

19) Install a 15-amp fuse into the AMP position inside the under-dash fuse panel,
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You're all done! Enjoy your new and improved OEM Harman audio system. Turn it on and give it a listen.



All of the parts and materials for this project are available on Amazon. Some of the materials can be acquired from your local parts suppliers.

The reason I am using the Scosche-specific brand versions of these parts, is because those four parts were in stock at the time I searched Amazon. Metra makes their own versions of these four parts as well and I believe there are some other brands out there that MAY have all four parts on offer. There may also be versions of the antenna adapters and antenna reverse adapters that DO NOT have the Lexus-only plugs on them which would eliminate step 8 altogether, but I couldn't find the matching pairs under one brand at the time I searched. However, I have personally verified that the Scosche brand parts WILL work in this project.

Thank you to @oddrelic for his electrical testing skills, and for snapping some of the pictures used in this tutorial.

Thank you to @Tcoat for being the inspiration for this project.

Thank you to @Bobharp for his original post here,
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=139286
which made me question the decision of Harman and Toyota to do what they did and to provide me a reason to find an alternate method. And also for helping us figure out that some dealer technicians simply have no clue what the hell they are doing, nor can they read simple directions.

Thank you to any other member here whom I used their snapshots.

"Thank you" to Toyota and Harman for the pictures that I used which were provided in your instruction manual to install the bypass harness in the first place. Certainly without you, this tutorial wouldn't even have to exist.
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My pubes are shaped like the number 86. There for I知 car. Derp
Count to muffens and call again.
I知 40. So....... say hi to your sisters or daughters.

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Old 06-30-2021, 11:29 PM   #2
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The Inexpensive Version

This write-up is for those who are NOT worried about factory warranty issues concerning the wiring in your cars' dash behind the head unit, and assumes the reader has the necessary skills and materials to complete this modification. Please read all of these instructions prior to beginning the job to get an idea of what materials you will want to choose to complete it.

Recommended Tools:

- Battery Terminal Service Wrench(es)

- Plastic Trim & Panel Prying/Removal Tools

- 1/4" Socket Wrench

- 10mm Socket

- 4" or 6" Socket Extension

- Wire Cutter/Stripper/Crimper

- Wire Connector De-Pinning Tools or a Heavy Gauge Sewing Needle

- Soldering Iron or Soldering Gun

- Lighter or Heat Gun

- Towel or Pillow

Recommended Materials:

- 6 Inches of 16 or 18 Gauge Blue Automotive Primary Wire

- Crimp Caps

- One or Two Butt Connectors for 16 to 18 Gauge Wire

- One T-tap Style Connector

- Rosin-Core Electrical Solder

- Heat Shrink Tubing or Electrical Tape

- One 15-Amp Mini-ATC Automotive Fuse

Note, the illustrations are numbered in the lower left corners and each one corresponds to each step. Let's begin.....

1) Disconnect the vehicle's negative terminal from the battery. Remove the dash trim from around the OEM Harman head unit.

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2) Remove the four 10mm bolts holding the head unit in place,
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and cover your shifter and dash area underneath the head unit with a towel or pillow to keep from scratching either the dash, head unit, or your shifter. Slide the head unit out of the dash opening.

3) Unplug only the antenna connector and the 10-pin connector from the back of the head unit, then allow the head unit to lay on the towel or pillow. In order to allow yourself more working room, you may want to completely remove the Harman head unit from your dash opening. If you do, make sure to take notes of how many plugs you remove from the head unit, and where each of those plugs are supposed to go.

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Note that this illustration above is my personal OEM head unit from a 2015 model year. Your Harman head unit will be slightly different, with possible differences with the individual plugs, but the 10-pin connector and the antenna connectors are the same as the older head units, which will be the only plugs we will be working with during this procedure.

4) Either de-pin the wire from the ten-pin plug as indicated in the pictures below, or cut that wire about 1.5 inches (3.8cm) from the back of the plug.

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5) Connect that wire (the vehicle-side end of the wire, NOT the plug-side end) to the antenna turn-on lead using a T-tap-style wire connector. It may be necessary to extend the wire first by a few inches, just to give yourself a bit more working length. Use the right tools and materials for a similar electrical repair job to make your connections and to protect the no-longer used wire on the back side of the ten-pin plug, in the case that you cut it instead of de-pinning it. You choose the materials that you are most comfortable with.

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6) Make sure all your connections are secure and insulated properly, then plug the antenna and ten-pin connectors back into the head unit. Slide the head unit back into the dash.

7) From the trunk opening, lift the trunk floor board up and out of the vehicle to gain access to the OEM door speaker amplifier on your left-side up near the base of the rear seat back,
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The OEM door speaker amplifier has a ten-pin receptacle and a six-pin receptacle. You should see at least the ten-pin connector unplugged from the amp, and a bypass plug plugged into the ten-pin connector instead.

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8) Remove this bypass plug from the ten-pin amplifier connector and plug the male ten-pin connector into its matching amplifier receptacle. Make sure the 6-pin connector is also inserted securely into the amp as well. You will no longer need the bypass plug.

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9) Reinstall the trunk floor board.

10) Install a 15-amp fuse into the AMP position inside the under-dash fuse panel,
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and reconnect the negative battery terminal.

11) Give your audio system a test listen and if you like what you hear, reinstall the four 10mm bolts to secure the head unit, and snap the dash trim back into place.

You're all done! Enjoy your new and improved OEM Harman audio system.
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Originally Posted by Mr.ac View Post
My pubes are shaped like the number 86. There for I知 car. Derp
Count to muffens and call again.
I知 40. So....... say hi to your sisters or daughters.

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Old 06-30-2021, 11:30 PM   #3
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Reserved.......
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Count to muffens and call again.
I知 40. So....... say hi to your sisters or daughters.
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Old 07-03-2021, 05:43 PM   #4
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Glad I could help, now we can take a stab at getting the reverse camera on to the head unit!

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Old 07-15-2021, 12:22 AM   #5
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Bump. Finally finished the DIY tutorial for the plug-and-play harness along with it's installation. Read the very first post above.
@Tcoat, PM me an address that I can ship your new amp re-Integration harness to. The shipping will be on me.
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Originally Posted by Mr.ac View Post
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Old 07-15-2021, 07:40 AM   #6
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Freaking stoked to try this. $45 for everything from amazon isn't horrible.

But why does Toyota put the amp in every car? It seems like a waste of money to bypass it instead of just throwing in the connectors to make it work.
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Old 07-15-2021, 08:15 AM   #7
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Freaking stoked to try this. $45 for everything from amazon isn't horrible.

But why does Toyota put the amp in every car? It seems like a waste of money to bypass it instead of just throwing in the connectors to make it work.
Same reason they wire them all for fog lights, heated seats, folding mirrors, etc. The less complex they keep the assembly process the cheaper it actually is. Even if only half of the cars they build use all the parts it is still more efficient and less costly just to put it in all of them. Sounds counter intuitive but that is the wonderfully illogical world of automotive assembly.
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Old 07-15-2021, 08:17 AM   #8
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Bump. Finally finished the DIY tutorial for the plug-and-play harness along with it's installation. Read the very first post above.
@Tcoat, PM me an address that I can ship your new amp re-Integration harness to. The shipping will be on me.
So very cool! I will send address but be warned if ninja assassins show up at my door I will wipe them all out within minutes.
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Old 07-15-2021, 09:46 AM   #9
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So very cool! I will send address but be warned if ninja assassins show up at my door I will wipe them all out within minutes.

Well, I don't know 'bout any of those ancient oriental martial arts, but I'm sure you'll be able to handle them if they do.
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Old 07-15-2021, 11:33 AM   #10
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Freaking stoked to try this. $45 for everything from amazon isn't horrible.
Especially since the bypass plug PT296-18191 was selling for $75-$95 according to @MightySouvlaki, which actually makes the entire audio system sound worse.
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Old 07-21-2021, 04:51 PM   #11
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OK so...
Package arrived today totally baffling the wife since she had not ordered anything and I always get her to order my stuff so nothing was expected.

Installation time.
Locate trim tool 20 - minutes.
Locate 10mm socket - 25 minutes
Fine a suitable towel to drape over everything - 5 minutes
Disassemble trim, remove bolts, drop HU, remove plugs and install adapter, remove amp bypass plug, steal spare fuse from under hood, install fuse, reinstall trim and turn on car - 6 minutes and 37 seconds


OH

MY

FREAKIN'

GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It no longer sounds like a tin can filled with marbles! The door speakers now have sound independent of the dash and they are actually woofers again.

If you are on the fence about doing this just do it. Do it now!

So, so so, many thanks to @FR-S2GT86 , @oddrelic and anybody else that contributed to this project!
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Old 07-21-2021, 07:40 PM   #12
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Glad you got everything working!
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Old 07-21-2021, 08:10 PM   #13
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Glad you got everything working!
Plug and play electronics are about my limit. Far different than wiring up an eight track player which was my old limit.
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Old 07-21-2021, 11:06 PM   #14
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OK so...
Package arrived today totally baffling the wife since she had not ordered anything and I always get her to order my stuff so nothing was expected.

Installation time.
Locate trim tool 20 - minutes.
Locate 10mm socket - 25 minutes
Fine a suitable towel to drape over everything - 5 minutes
Disassemble trim, remove bolts, drop HU, remove plugs and install adapter, remove amp bypass plug, steal spare fuse from under hood, install fuse, reinstall trim and turn on car - 6 minutes and 37 seconds


OH

MY

FREAKIN'

GOD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It no longer sounds like a tin can filled with marbles! The door speakers now have sound independent of the dash and they are actually woofers again.

If you are on the fence about doing this just do it. Do it now!

So, so so, many thanks to @FR-S2GT86 , @oddrelic and anybody else that contributed to this project!

You fit all of that in about two paragraphs......I ought to have YOU write my DIY's from now on.

Really, I just got sick and tired of hearing you bitch and moan about it all the time.

But, glad to hear it worked out for you.
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