KPower Industries K24 swap

[Irace86.2.0]

Jesus. This seems a little odd like really, a cracked baffle too? How much vibration could be there? Like I have vibrations, but I haven't had nearly the issues you have had in terms of shearing bolts and this.

[RedReplicant]

I dunno, I've put about 900 competitive pace track miles on it over the last few months and I kinda feel like for a fresh build it has been pretty issue free. Looking at the baffle design it makes sense that it cracked since it is bent stainless steel with nothing preventing it from vibrating back and forth.

I also ordered an ATI damper, which will be here in a couple of weeks, and I am cautiously optimistic that this TB without a rubber gasket will solve the bolt issue.

Headed to my tuner on Tuesday.

[ML]

Im pretty sure the reason I have had zero vibration related issues is because I have my revlimit set to 7300 and try my best not to hit the cut. I know the 8k + rev range is a reason people like the K but I’d wager a fair bet this is part of the issue (also I maybe saying something super obvious here that everyone else is like “no shit dumbass” so sorry if that’s the case. Lol)

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by ML

Im pretty sure the reason I have had zero vibration related issues is because I have my revlimit set to 7300 and try my best not to hit the cut. I know the 8k + rev range is a reason people like the K but I’d wager a fair bet this is part of the issue (also I maybe saying something super obvious here that everyone else is like “no shit dumbass” so sorry if that’s the case. Lol)

I have my cut at 7800 and try to shift by 7500 unless extending for specific corner, but with that said, I'm with you, I would definitely not rev one of these things to the base tune 8500 limit with any expectation of it surviving even a season lol

[RedReplicant]

Same Dynapack dyno, original back in May. 205whp. Made 202whp on a Dynojet in NASA config after this.




Original chart is overlaid to see the difference.

Changes are Drag Cartel DICs and a Bosch 74mm TB, maybe 10-15f ambient difference. 230whp.

I was honestly expecting 215whp or so, best case. Pump 91.

Also made two flat tune maps for 205whp and 200whp. Pretty fat ~2000-2200 rpm power table top.

[redlined600]

Wow, that's awesome!

[ML]

does it sound any different with the cams?

[redlined600]

Any chance you grabbed a picture of the ichiban TB adapter?

[RedReplicant]

Originally Posted by redlined600

Any chance you grabbed a picture of the ichiban TB adapter?

It hasn't shipped yet - I'm using the KPower 74mm adapter, hand cut gasket, Nordlocks, and 10.7 bolts for now.

Originally Posted by ML

does it sound any different with the cams?

Yeah, it sounds more sharp and aggressive. It is raining the next couple of days but I will try and grab some video.

As a side note, I am fairly sure that the Haltech 'import' function has some bugs with wiring options, so definitely don't use that and instead use the open / write method of updating maps. My car lost CAN whenever I used the import function to update a map even when not checking the boxes to bring in wiring changes.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by ML

Im pretty sure the reason I have had zero vibration related issues is because I have my revlimit set to 7300 and try my best not to hit the cut. I know the 8k + rev range is a reason people like the K but I’d wager a fair bet this is part of the issue (also I maybe saying something super obvious here that everyone else is like “no shit dumbass” so sorry if that’s the case. Lol)

I can’t think of why the rev limit would matter. The car tends to be smoother at highway speeds and when rpms are higher, and I don’t spend too much time at 7500+ rpms. Low-speed, off-pedal decel is where I get most vibration and noise, which hopefully will be better with the OEM driveshaft shortened. Idle vibration could be better, but that is either chassis contact or just the motor or needing to dial in my tune with different issues I’ve had. We will what happens after this round of modifications, but I am adding back the trans bushing.

I do have two points that are about two millimeters away from the chassis on the oil pan. No way around it either without pulling the motor to modify things. I also have rub on cornering from the exhaust hitting the sway bar, which I plan to redo too. I modified the hood too because the valve cover was hitting that. I’m planning on a carbon fiber Seibon hood eventually.

[RedReplicant]

redlined600 mentioned to me that ASMotorsports uses an intake manifold brace on their race car swap package cars, so I started poking around a bit. One other thing I noticed in the picture is nordlocks on the alternator bolts. He also recommends a steel flywheel over an aluminum one.



https://www.shopasmotorsports.com/k-...ngine-packages

GLTC Spec- This is the package for someone wanting a simple K24 engine to put in their S2 and go track the shxt out of it. Over many seasons and literally thousands of track miles, we've figured out what works and what doesn’t. Included bigger oil pan, ATI SuperDampr, and most importantly, engine vibration proofing to help keep sensors and throttle bodies alive.

Again, I think there is a difference between a street car and a race / competitive track car. A normal single day event is 45-60 minutes of time spent over 5000rpm.

It is also now obvious to me that I made a dumb choice going to a side vented valve cover, I'm going back to a stock rear vented cover.

[captain awesome]

Interesting about the intake brace. I assume other than keeping it from severe fatigue it may also help with vibe harmonics? Also glad to see the steel flywheel is preferred since I went that direction. Gotta look into the nordlock stuff.



I'm curious what else they are doing for vibration mitigation, but more importantly I feel vindicated that the vibes are real. I often feel like I'm taking crazy pills when others seem so blas'e about it. Of course there are others here that have experienced the same as myself but it seems like a small amount of the swappers.


One last thing. I don't recall if I posted this here or not but other swappers may want to check if their trans case is rubbing the K power trans brace near where they notched it. You can also see the rear nub of the trans mount rubs the brace. I ground away more material and it helped a bunch in high load left handers. Pretty sure my recent stock shifter assembly took care of the rest of that rubbing now as well.










This is how much I removed from the existing notch.

[RedReplicant]

If anyone runs into the car starter button no longer working after changing maps in Haltech, the starter button wiring being unset, and being unable to set the starter button wiring back to vehicle CAN:

The workaround I've found for now is to untoggle the starter button in the engine starter control settings. The car will now start by pressing the start button, waiting a couple of seconds, and pushing in the clutch.

[ML]

My k24 is at my engine builder and he opened it up to find the #4 piston ringland was cracked. At my last event it was smoking enough to get black flagged, but still ran fine so this would explain that. He also said the main bearing had a bit of scoring. Motor had 140k miles on it when I got it and I only replaced the timing components and oil pump. If I had to guess to a cause probably knocking which was probably from 140f intake temps at points, but if I remember correctly it always smoked a little bit since I first got it. oh well, forged pistons, rods, cams, valves, valve springs, guides, seals and all going in it now with 9.5 compression and 500hp goals. Just pray I don't have the built k curse...