CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[Cephas]

So the move is to put the crash bolts in the upper hole?

[RToyo86]

Originally Posted by Cephas

So the move is to put the crash bolts in the upper hole?

It's probably the cheapest way to add 2+° camber up front.

You are moving the top of the wheel closer to the strut by moving the nuckle inwards.
Some high offset wider wheels with wide tires will get close or rub. Something to consider.

[marco_mc22]

Cheapest way to raise rear roll center is by upper control arms offset bushings, just a little variation tho, then you can raise the subframe height using special solid mounts, spl makes some solid mounts with special spacers to adjust roll center, but the more you raise the subframe the more your anti dive will increase at the same time your roll center will raise so it’s a matter of balance.

[RayRay88]

Originally Posted by chuckdest

Hi guys, I had a few questions about the roll centers on the FRS. (Please correct any of this it is wrong)

Stock Center of Gravity Height: 18.0"
Front Roll Center Height: 3.1"
Rear Roll Center Height: 3.8"

The things I have read said that a good place to set your roll centers for RWD cars is:
Front: 30% Height of Center of Gravity = 5.4"
Rear: 15% Height of Center of Gravity = 2.7"

My question is, why are the factory specs so far away from what I have read to be optimal??

If I am replacing all of my struts, springs, sways, wheels, tires and adjusting all of my alignment specs...Where should I try to set the roll centers?

For the front, I think the whiteline kit plus ride height tuning should get me close.

But what about the rear? I cant seem to find any solutions for adjusting the rear roll center outside of ride height.

Because this is a mass produced road car.

[Cephas]

Hey so I am le dumb.

Went to install some Cusco steering rack bushings. MacGyvered the stock ones out with a C clamp and some PVC. Figured the new ones were so tight, no WAY they'd go in crooked. Went to press them in with the PVC, and nope... Definitely went in crooked, and ruined the frame-side bushings in the process. <facepalm>

Lesson learned. Ordered the Cusco install tool along with a fresh set of bushings.

Question is, do y'all put a dab of grease on the metal sleeve insert to ease install, or just ram it in dry, so to speak?

[Ohio Enthusiast]

I got grease together with the bushings (mine are Energy Suspension) and used it. Don't really see an issue with greasing them.

BTW, I MacGyvered a tool, same as the Cusco one, from a PVC pipe and a long threaded rod with some nuts and washers. Didn't really see a reason to pony up their asking price for the tool on top of the bushings.

[Jchang]

A friend gave me his old set of RCE Yellows and I was wondering if it is worth swapping out the stock tS springs since they are upgraded springs already? I currently use the car as a daily and occasional autocross.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Jchang

A friend gave me his old set of RCE Yellows and I was wondering if it is worth swapping out the stock tS springs since they are upgraded springs already? I currently use the car as a daily and occasional autocross.

Just a little bit lower and stiffer with the Yellows. Noticeable in autox but up to you if it's worth it!

- Andrew

[Vital]

Originally Posted by Jchang

A friend gave me his old set of RCE Yellows and I was wondering if it is worth swapping out the stock tS springs since they are upgraded springs already? I currently use the car as a daily and occasional autocross.

Honestly, id put the RCE Yellows on they are great. I have them and love mine i dont have a tS tho...

[ninzuh]

Just wanted to give a quick thanks to everyone in this thread for the advice on refreshing my suspension, especially @Racecompengineering.

Yellows w/ fresh 17+ dampers is a great, budget friendly OEM+ route.

[N_Raged]

Hello, I installed tS springs and B6 dampers myself and the rear ride height looks really high - higher than stock PP setup, even after alignment. Rear camber is only -0.8* and -1.0*. Do the springs just need more time to settle?

Ride height measurements with 225/45R17 tires, a half tank of fuel, and spare tire present in the trunk:
FL 26 5/8"
FR 26 3/8"
RL 27 1/16"
RR 27 3/8"





I read some things on this forum about spring orientation does not matter, but I oriented the spring perches the same direction as my stock suspension.




Unfortunately I don't have any previous ride height measurements to compare, so here's a photo of my stock setup for what it's worth.

[RToyo86]

The B6 have higher pressure which probably causes ride height to sit a bit higher.

I didn't take measurements either but visually the RCE yellow/B6 combo I have looks a touch taller than yellow/stock damper.

[BlueWhelan]

I put ts springs and dampers on my MY13 and had the same result. Before and after measurements showed a definite increase in the rear by 3-5mm. Didn’t like it at first, but I gotta admit the thing rotates well.


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[N_Raged]

Originally Posted by RToyo86

The B6 have higher pressure which probably causes ride height to sit a bit higher.

I didn't take measurements either but visually the RCE yellow/B6 combo I have looks a touch taller than yellow/stock damper.

That's what I was afraid of, but the fronts look normal like photos of actual tS' from the factory. The rear is a whole inch higher than the front with enough fender gap for my fist lol.

Originally Posted by BlueWhelan

I put ts springs and dampers on my MY13 and had the same result. Before and after measurements showed a definite increase in the rear by 3-5mm. Didn’t like it at first, but I gotta admit the thing rotates well.

That could just be due to old tired suspension sagging over time.