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Old 12-29-2024, 08:01 PM   #15
Prodigalson
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The guy that sold me the rear end had the inner trunk lid panel with clips, dead pedal (mine is rather scarred up) and a replacement interior quarter panel cover (i broke the clips on mine when i was removing it). Got all 3 pieces for $50.

I never liked the unfinished look of the FRS/86 trunk lids…but also wouldn’t pay the $80 it costs for a new one. I’m happy with today’s acquisitions.

Hopefully the dead pedal is straightforward to replace. I’ll be searching the forum for a DIY.

EDIT: Looks like replacing the dead pedal is a real difficult job. So, might have to rethink that.

In the second picture, circled in yellow, you can see the broken off clip stuck in the mating section.
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Old 01-01-2025, 03:05 PM   #16
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Got most of the interior back together, minus the radio, radio trim and gauge hood.
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Old 01-01-2025, 07:47 PM   #17
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Got the interior all buttoned up. Installed the red footwell lighting kit, the alcantara gauge hood, and the black steering wheel trim. The subwoofer is also installed (and working) as well as the trunk lid panel.

Also, I reinstalled the worn original shift knob as the red one was a cheapy from Aliexpress and I didn't prefer it. I'll plan to install an tS one later on. Also planning to get a set of Tuxmat floor mats. If anyone has a set for sale, let me know.

Got the backup camera mostly installed; camera is in place on rear panel and wire has been run to radio, but still need to connect the reverse signal from the driver's side kick panel.

What do you guys think of the JDM steering wheel? Too much red? I'd actually like to get a pair of BRZ seats without the red panels and possibly get the JDM steering wheel.

Planning to order the flexible draw bars & V-brace in the next few days. I'll be traveling a lot for work so probably won't be able to install them till March. I plan to do a video for them as well as the STI steering rack bushings.
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Old 01-05-2025, 06:00 PM   #18
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I Just submitted the JapanParts order for the STI Flexible Draw Stiffener ST20118AS000 and the STI Flexible V Bar ST20502AS020. They weren't cheap ($750 shipped, total for both) but from what I have seen, still a very good price.

At the moment, that sums up my STI parts purchases unless I decide to go pillowball mounts but due to the NVH and lack of use case, I doubt I'll decide they're necessary. (I'm open to feedback from anyone who has them, or anyone who has a great price on them :P )

Also, just noticed that I haven't put gas (E85) in it since 11/19/24 and still have a half tank. Between the holiday time off, work trips and my short commute (only a half hour each way, praise God!), just haven't been driving it much. I've only put 1,200 miles on it since I got it in August. I like that I'm keeping the miles down, but I miss driving it.
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Old 01-08-2025, 06:49 AM   #19
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amazing thread, will copy some of your ideas.... i'm owning my car for 4 years now, and plan to keep it for a long time, a good OEM+ car would be amazing to have. my current mods are just tuner things hahahaha.... -30mm drop, 18's, 4-1uel+200cell cat and a remap, front pipe and backbox remus... but copying your oem+ style mods
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Old 01-13-2025, 12:48 AM   #20
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I was a mechanic at a Datsun dealership when the 240Z was a new car. The 1600 and 2000 were favorites of mine. We were also a British/Leyland dealer as well and the 240Z was for me evidence that it was over for the Brits. If you adjust for inflation, the 86 Twins are about the same as the cost of a 240Z back in the day. That being said, there is light years of technology and performance for the dollar difference. I got to drive an automatic transmission 240Z which was a rare one and in my opinion should have never been offered. It had an odd problem that only appeared after the owner carefully broke in the engine; it would not go over halfway on the tachometer and it was like it had a governor on it. After a week of diagnostics, we discovered something that no one would have suspected. The overhead camshaft on the straight six engine was installed in a way that retarded the valve timing. I recall that a camshaft timing gear was etched incorrectly and installed using those markings. Oh, do I have stories about legendary Japanese quality control. My favorite was a 1600cc short block that was assembled using an unfinished crank shaft. Things are way different now.
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Old 01-14-2025, 10:32 AM   #21
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@Flarpswitch. Thanks for sharing your experience with the 240Z. I have owned 63 cars so far, but have not had the pleasure of driving a 240Z. In my mind, the 240Z typified the simple 2 door front engine/rear drive vehicle; being a well balanced, lightweight sportscar without any fluff, and for its time, reset expectations for what kind of car a person could obtain for entry level pricing.
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Old 01-16-2025, 01:07 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flarpswitch View Post
I was a mechanic at a Datsun dealership when the 240Z was a new car. The 1600 and 2000 were favorites of mine.
I had a Datsun 1600 roadster for about 5 years...phenomenal driving experience for a 50+ year old car. And a lot of character.

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At the moment, that sums up my STI parts purchases unless I decide to go pillowball mounts but due to the NVH and lack of use case, I doubt I'll decide they're necessary. (I'm open to feedback from anyone who has them, or anyone who has a great price on them :P )
Do you mean the pillowball rear trailing arm, lower control arm, and toe arm?

- Andrew
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Old 01-16-2025, 01:23 PM   #23
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Do you mean the pillowball rear trailing arm, lower control arm, and toe arm?

- Andrew
Correct, yes. Though I'd really like to get the remaining Goup N rubber bits (front/rear arm bushings, sway bar bushings).
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Old 01-16-2025, 01:40 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Prodigalson View Post
Correct, yes. Though I'd really like to get the remaining Goup N rubber bits (front/rear arm bushings, sway bar bushings).
Okay gotcha.

I'm running the STI trailing arm combined with the MCA traction mod, this improved ride quality IMO. The rear wheel is a bit more "free" with the reduction in anti-squat and the spherical bearing that allows for less restricted pivot.

I think a rear pillowball LCA and toe arm are maybe slightly harsher, but not by much. I use Cusco, we used STI on our first shop car. Again the less restricted pivot is a good thing, but on the flipside they do transmit some forces into the chassis. Good shocks help.

I would not use polyurethane in any of these positions.

For the front, I'm running the Cusco front LCA which uses hardened rubber bushings and it's noticeably firmer on sharper edged bumps. Not bad, but I'm on good 3 way shocks which helps tune that out a bit. The STI Group N bushings will not be as harsh for sure, they still have some of the voids like OEM.

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Old 01-16-2025, 01:45 PM   #25
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Okay gotcha.

I'm running the STI trailing arm combined with the MCA traction mod, this improved ride quality IMO. The rear wheel is a bit more "free" with the reduction in anti-squat and the spherical bearing that allows for less restricted pivot.

I think a rear pillowball LCA and toe arm are maybe slightly harsher, but not by much. Again the less restricted pivot is a good thing, but on the flipside they do transmit some forces into the chassis. Good shocks help.

I would not use polyurethane in any of these positions.

For the front, I'm running the Cusco front LCA which uses hardened rubber bushings and it's noticeably firmer on sharper edged bumps. Not bad, but I'm on good 3 way shocks which helps tune that out a bit. The STI Group N bushings will not be as harsh for sure, they still have some of the voids like OEM.

- Andrew
Interesting. Thanks for your input, Andrew. Seems I need to re-evaluate the STI pillowball mounts. I fully expected them to have significant NVH impact. I am not familiar with the MCA traction mod, I'll do some reading.
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Old 01-16-2025, 02:12 PM   #26
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Interesting. Thanks for your input, Andrew. Seems I need to re-evaluate the STI pillowball mounts. I fully expected them to have significant NVH impact. I am not familiar with the MCA traction mod, I'll do some reading.
A lot of the negative feeling around pillowballs is due to noise from low quality bearings that wear out quickly (or just weren't great to begin with). The noise is annoying and also adds to a perception of harshness. Good thing with STI (and Cusco to some extent) is that they use much higher quality bearings than most, plus they're sealed from the elements which helps them last longer.

- Andrew
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Old 01-16-2025, 05:32 PM   #27
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Based on what I have read, the STI pillowball trailing arm combined with the MCA traction mod is something that I will plan to do while I am rebuilding my original rear end with the 4.56 FD (along with STI diff mounts, STI subframe bushings, tS stoppers & tS subframe bolts). I appreciate the suggestion, Andrew! @Racecomp Engineering
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Old 01-20-2025, 07:48 PM   #28
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Received the STI flexible V bar & draw stiffeners today. It took exactly 15 days to get them from the order date. I’m going to scan in the installation instructions & make them available on Google Drive (I searched for these online & couldn’t find them).
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