Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[Jeff86]

For those who have removed or raised the supercharger to work on the engine or transmission, did you have to remove the AC compressor and tilt it out of the way first as with the original install?

[B T]

Originally Posted by Jeff86

did you have to remove the AC compressor and tilt it out of the way first as with the original install?

I just lift it straight up with some straps and an engine hoist.

[Jeff86]

Originally Posted by B T

I just lift it straight up with some straps and an engine hoist.

Awesome. That is what I’ll do. Thanks!

[B T]

Welp, think I may have tapped the piston crowns with my valves the other day. It's currently running fine but I'm tearing it apart anyways as I suspect there has been some valve seat seal issues. It's been a few years since I last rebuilt this engine. Have the following ready, am I forgetting anything?
Cometic .050" head gasket
Timing chains
Chain guides
chain tensioners
3-bond sealant
Killer B Oil pickup
Using ARP head studs so new aren't needed.
I'm not sure cam cover plates really need new seals, opinions?
Taking the heads off for inspection, not planning on opening case halves unless the crank doesn't turn easily. What do you guys think?

[86Andy]

SOS - Need someone smarter than me to take a peek at my data logs, if anyone would be so kind! Zach from CSG is my tuner and I'll send this over to him too, but I'm sure he's a busy guy so I'd really appreciate crowdsourcing some opinions in the meantime, as my FRS is my only car. Logs linked at the bottom.

I've had my edelbrock for 2 years, very minimal issues until now, but it has been finicky with throttle response throughout my ownership and has only gotten 22mpg despite driving pretty conservatively. I run 92 pump gas and am fully catless.

2 days ago, I started getting very jerky throttle response and it was really lugging while getting going in first gear. Fuel trims were consistently in the negative high 20's. I did not think to log since I was a bit panicked, but I managed to get it home to my garage. Engine nearly stalled in neutral while rolling it back into my garage.

I've had MAF issues so I cleaned my MAF, and noticed the O ring was falling apart. I replaced the O ring, emptied my (quite full) PCV catch can, and reset the ECU by leaving my battery unplugged. Went for two short drives yesterday, and I thought the problem was solved. Come today, I went for a drive and immediately STFT was -29. Started logging, and it very slowly improved throughout my 30 min drive.

My first datalog is the first 10-ish minutes of this drive, when I was having issues. My second datalog is from my drive back. During log #2 it feels like it the issue resolved itself, but I expect it to happen again. Funny enough, during my second datalog the car was feeling better than ever, and my mpg was climbing higher than it ever has, though that may be due to resetting the ECU and only doing highway driving today.

The drive I went on today was to retrieve my smoke machine, so I plan on smoke testing for leaks on the intake side, as I've read that leaks can cause wonky fuel trims. Would take any suggestions for smoke testing as I've only done it once several years ago. I'll do the exhaust too, as I've been having some rattling sounds back there and suspect there may be an exhaust leak.

Let me know if i can provide any more helpful information. @CSGMike tagging you because you're the most helpful name on this forum that I can remember off the top of my head.

Datalog #1 - Issues

Datalog #2 - Issues resolved?

[B T]

While I'm doing a quick engine out inspection, decided to do a bit of work on the supercharger. Edelbrock has an issue where over time the bypass valve actuating rod will wear and slip inside of the housing. This will cause the valve itself to become damaged and caught in the open position, severely limiting boost. You can see the damage to the top of the butterfly valve at the top of the actuator rod in image 3 below. I'm sure they would sell you a replacement rod and bypass valve, but I'm going to give you a solution before it ever happens. Buy a 5 pack of these McMaster Carr PEEK Plastic washers and use all 5 to shim out the actuator as seen in picture #4. The first two washers will need to be sanded down on one edge resembling more of a D shape. This will stop the rod from wearing down inside the supercharger. First pic is just because a lot of us haven't seen what it looks like inside the supercharger itself.
Edelbrock heat exhanger inspection/degreasing


Edelbrock Supercharger with bypass valve


Bypass valve damage


Bypass Valve Solution

[Brewster]

Originally Posted by B T

While I'm doing a quick engine out inspection, decided to do a bit of work on the supercharger. Edelbrock has an issue where over time the bypass valve actuating rod will wear and slip inside of the housing. This will cause the valve itself to become damaged and caught in the open position, severely limiting boost. You can see the damage to the top of the butterfly valve at the top of the actuator rod in image 3 below. I'm sure they would sell you a replacement rod and bypass valve, but I'm going to give you a solution before it ever happens. Buy a 5 pack of these McMaster Carr PEEK Plastic washers and use all 5 to shim out the actuator as seen in picture #4. The first two washers will need to be sanded down on one edge resembling more of a D shape. This will stop the rod from wearing down inside the supercharger. First pic is just because a lot of us haven't seen what it looks like inside the supercharger itself.
Edelbrock heat exhanger inspection/degreasing


Edelbrock Supercharger with bypass valve


Bypass valve damage


Bypass Valve Solution

Thanks so much for this !

Did the engine check out OK ?
How dirty/oily was the IC ? The rotors and interior housing look clean.
Will you change the SC drive lube while this is apart ?

[B T]

Originally Posted by Brewster

Thanks so much for this !

Did the engine check out OK ?
How dirty/oily was the IC ? The rotors and interior housing look clean.
Will you change the SC drive lube while this is apart ?

Heads are in the shop, I noticed some excessive clearance between the cams and rockers, so I believe there may be bent valves. The piston crowns showed no signs of impact however. The rotors were actually in really good shape but i hit them with WD-40 and wiped them down as best as I could. I did also change the oil in the supercharger, took just over 4 oz of fluid per the eaton charts. That fluid smelled worse than diff fluid BUT looked pretty clean! The intercooler definitely benefited from a degreasing to increase the thermal conductivity. Highly recommend a catch can on the CCV lines.

[Brewster]

[QUOTE=B T;3610665]Heads are in the shop, I noticed some excessive clearance between the cams and rockers, so I believe there may be bent valves. The piston crowns showed no signs of impact however. The rotors were actually in really good shape but i hit them with WD-40 and wiped them down as best as I could. I did also change the oil in the supercharger, took just over 4 oz of fluid per the eaton charts. That fluid smelled worse than diff fluid BUT looked pretty clean! The intercooler definitely benefited from a degreasing to increase the thermal conductivity. Highly recommend a catch can on the CCV lines.[/QUOT

Degreasing the IC...... Hmmm
Possibly another reason for me to consider installing a water/methanol injection system, with injection nozzle just after throttle body. Besides lowering IAT's it'd help keep the IC cleaner