Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[BrahmaBull1990]

Originally Posted by Auto_egr

Ignore my past comment about unmetered air going into the engine, I misread your update since you mentioned it's running rich. If you're getting negative LTFT it's pulling fuel for some reason. Not adding fuel to compensate for unmetered air. A leaky header can cause negative LTFT if it's upstream of the O2 sensor(s).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is a crack at the Y on the header, so before the 02 sensors. Can you get stalling issues from an exhaust leak it if it bad enough? I have a new header coming this weekend and at this rate, I won't be about to get to the DIY shop 30 min away to install it...

[Auto_egr]

Originally Posted by BrahmaBull1990

It is a crack at the Y on the header, so before the 02 sensors. Can you get stalling issues from an exhaust leak it if it bad enough? I have a new header coming this weekend and at this rate, I won't be about to get to the DIY shop 30 min away to install it...

Definitely possible. Any chance you can borrow a jack and jack stands to do the header swap at home?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BrahmaBull1990]

Originally Posted by Auto_egr

Definitely possible. Any chance you can borrow a jack and jack stands to do the header swap at home?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I will have to try. I already paid a non-refundable $40 deposit to hold the bay

Please let me know of any other ideas. I was running rich before and didn’t have idle issues like this.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by BrahmaBull1990

Thanks Mike.

The trim is at idle and with slight throttle. It improves under hard acceleration but my trims do not go positive and they used to under hard acceleration. The trims are the most negative at idle and when in a vacuum (decelerating/engine braking)

The car is running fine except for a slight feeling of power loss during a pull (could be in my head).

My BPV has two bolts which I believe is the upgraded one?

Are you on the stock tune?

[BrahmaBull1990]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Are you on the stock tune?

Tuned locally on a Dynapack. Never had any issues and the tune has been revised.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by BrahmaBull1990

Tuned locally on a Dynapack. Never had any issues and the tune has been revised.

I recommend you ask your tuner what they think the issue might be. They may be best equipped to guide you to what's causing the issue based on logs.

Second, would be to take it to a local trusted shop and have them check for vacuum and exhaust leaks, as well as dirty sensors.


Can you give me a ***COMPLETE*** and exact list of mods on your car when it comes to powertrain?

[BrahmaBull1990]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I recommend you ask your tuner what they think the issue might be. They may be best equipped to guide you to what's causing the issue based on logs.

Second, would be to take it to a local trusted shop and have them check for vacuum and exhaust leaks, as well as dirty sensors.


Can you give me a ***COMPLETE*** and exact list of mods on your car when it comes to powertrain?

Stock motor (2020 with 13.5k miles), Edelbrock Sc, Fujitsubo EL catless header (cracked weld; new JDL 4-2-1 coming today), Tomei OP, stock front pipe, Corsa catback, Radium PCV catch-can, dynapack tune. It was running super rich -20% LTFT last weekend before this stalling issue on Tuesday.

It does appear I have the “upgraded” BPV on my kit.

Here is a log: https://datazap.me/u/brahmabull/stal...&data=19-28-29

I ran through the cold start and let it idle. All good then when I blip the throttle to 2.5k rpm and the revs fall it drops too low and tries to stall. Did confirm again I have the upgraded BPV

Update: Towing to the shop tomorrow where they are installing the new header and the tuner is looking over the car.

[FrickingReallySlow]

Originally Posted by BrahmaBull1990

Stock motor (2020 with 13.5k miles), Edelbrock Sc, Fujitsubo EL catless header (cracked weld; new JDL 4-2-1 coming today), Tomei OP, stock front pipe, Corsa catback, Radium PCV catch-can, dynapack tune.

Curious how did you see it's a cracked weld? since you couldn't jack up the car to take off the undertray.

I experienced something like this as well over last summer for a couple of days when it was really hot but the symptom of almost stalling disappeared. (I'm still rich at idle but fine when there's throttle). I added some rubber spacers between the EVAP solenoid and the engine block mounting point since I felt like the new position of it for EBSC was way hotter than its stock position (directly connected to the engine instead of the plastic intake). Not sure if it helps but will see when summer comes.

[BrahmaBull1990]

Originally Posted by FrickingReallySlow

Curious how did you see it's a cracked weld? since you couldn't jack up the car to take off the undertray.

I experienced something like this as well over last summer for a couple of days when it was really hot but the symptom of almost stalling disappeared. (I'm still rich at idle but fine when there's throttle). I added some rubber spacers between the EVAP solenoid and the engine block mounting point since I felt like the new position of it for EBSC was way hotter than its stock position (directly connected to the engine instead of the plastic intake). Not sure if it helps but will see when summer comes.

I had the car in last month for a retune and they noted the weld was split at the Y and it was leaking or about to. A couple weeks later my fuel trims went richer and richer (unsure if the header is the cause).

Unfortunately I bought the header on here and they didn’t tell me the weld was split…I’ve only had it installed for about 2k miles…I texted them and they never replied. $850 flushed

[BrahmaBull1990]

Just popped the hose off the actuator and tried blowing in it. I couldn’t blow any air through at all. I’m thinking it’s the POS header.

[BirdTRD]

Originally Posted by BrahmaBull1990

Just popped the hose off the actuator and tried blowing in it. I couldn’t blow any air through at all. I’m thinking it’s the POS header.

You should be able to find someone to weld stainless steel relatively cheap. I've had to have my Tomei headers repaired (bought new) and a used Berk front pipe fixed as well. Local guy charged my $20 each. ymmv.

[BrahmaBull1990]

Originally Posted by BirdTRD

You should be able to find someone to weld stainless steel relatively cheap. I've had to have my Tomei headers repaired (bought new) and a used Berk front pipe fixed as well. Local guy charged my $20 each. ymmv.

That’s a great suggestion but they are in pretty rough shape. The ceramic coating is shot too. FedEx was suppose to deliver the new coated JDL 4-2-1 header today but they delayed the delivery. So I’ll tow it to the shop to look over and hopefully get the header to them by tomorrow afternoon for a Monday install.

[Brewster]

I'll be pulling all the injectors to be cleaned soon. The left DI fuel rail and crossover pipe are noted on Toyota's service diagram as not to be reused, but at $390, I'm tempted to.

Your thoughts and experience on this ??

[tomm.brz]

Originally Posted by BrahmaBull1990

Stock motor (2020 with 13.5k miles), Edelbrock Sc, Fujitsubo EL catless header (cracked weld; new JDL 4-2-1 coming today), Tomei OP, stock front pipe, Corsa catback, Radium PCV catch-can, dynapack tune. It was running super rich -20% LTFT last weekend before this stalling issue on Tuesday.

It does appear I have the “upgraded” BPV on my kit.

Here is a log: https://datazap.me/u/brahmabull/stal...&data=19-28-29

I ran through the cold start and let it idle. All good then when I blip the throttle to 2.5k rpm and the revs fall it drops too low and tries to stall. Did confirm again I have the upgraded BPV

Update: Towing to the shop tomorrow where they are installing the new header and the tuner is looking over the car.

Your tuner is not aware apparently that ZA1JK00C tunes , with any racerom patch available in the last 3 years, is EXTREMELY BUGGED

It's pretty obvious on the logs, like the PI% forced to 100% when off throttle. That's one of the many bugs your tune is full of.

You will never get rid of problems untill you keep using a K00C with racerom patch.

Already the fact your local tuner didn't notice this and let you out of his garage with an extremely bugged rom, says A LOT

K00C cars need to be force-flashed to euro K00G.. or someother newer Usa roms, maybe they are less bugged, but so it is. Good luck