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Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires.


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Old 10-03-2012, 10:30 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Lange View Post
Pretty much every other Toyota model (save for M14 models like Tundra, Sequoia and Land Cruiser), use 76ft-lbs, but the FR-S uses Subaru studs with a finer thread pitch. 89ft-lbs is correct, as was mentioned.

Jeff
Fine pitch threads take less torque to stretch the stud to its correct clamping force.

Coarse thread takes more torque for the same size stud of the same material. You have less mechanical advantage with coarse threads.

I always put anti-seize on all wheel studs and then you would use less torque. You are not overcoming as much friction to stretch the stud as on a dry thread.
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:51 PM   #16
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I RallyX a WRX on 72 ft-lb lug nuts, so I have no idea why the BRZ requires 89.
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:32 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpracer View Post
Fine pitch threads take less torque to stretch the stud to its correct clamping force.

Coarse thread takes more torque for the same size stud of the same material. You have less mechanical advantage with coarse threads.

I always put anti-seize on all wheel studs and then you would use less torque. You are not overcoming as much friction to stretch the stud as on a dry thread.
Sorry, I didn't mean that it required more torque because it has a finer pitch, just that it had a finer pitch. Poorly worded post is poorly worded.

Oh well.

Jeff
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Old 11-04-2014, 07:07 PM   #18
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Don't worry if you service at the dealer you will get at least 200 ft/lb. More is better right?
Wrong. Over torquing damages the fasteners by stretching them and damaging the threads. Would you rather have your wheels fall off because the lug nuts were under torqued and fell off because the wheel studs broke? Either way it's messy.
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Old 11-04-2014, 07:11 PM   #19
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Wrong. Over torquing damages the fasteners by stretching them and damaging the threads. Would you rather have your wheels fall off because the lug nuts were under torqued and fell off because the wheel studs broke? Either way it's messy.
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Old 11-04-2014, 07:11 PM   #20
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2012? #87 hasn't posted since June of 13, and the post you corrected was sarcasm anyways.


edit: Beaten to the punch. Curses.
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Old 11-05-2014, 07:59 AM   #21
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I find it strange that the torque spec for WRX's is much lower than 89, despite running the exact same studs, hubs, etc.

Since swapping to ARP studs and Muteki AR48 lugs I've been torquing to 80ft/lbs. The Muteki packing suggested 75-85, so I went with the middle. Zero issues with them backing off over time.
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Old 11-05-2014, 11:52 AM   #22
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I find it strange that the torque spec for WRX's is much lower than 89, despite running the exact same studs, hubs, etc.

Since swapping to ARP studs and Muteki AR48 lugs I've been torquing to 80ft/lbs. The Muteki packing suggested 75-85, so I went with the middle. Zero issues with them backing off over time.
did you swap out the studs for any particular reason? longer length? stock ones broke? etc.?

just curious, cuz thats one of the things on my "50/50 should i do or not" list. lol
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Old 11-05-2014, 11:54 AM   #23
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Broke a couple stock ones, and wanted the option of spacers up front to get to the camber setting I wanted (-2*). Turns out I didn't need spacers, but I'm glad I swapped the studs anyway.

Fronts are really easy to do, just pull the wheels, calipers and rotors off and you can swap them with the hub in the car. Rears you'll need to pull the hubs.

I pull my wheels before every autox/track event, so the better studs will be cheaper in the long run instead of constantly replacing the stock ones.
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Old 11-05-2014, 01:57 PM   #24
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I thought I saw 78 ft/lbs somewhere.

The '15 WRX is 89.
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Old 11-05-2014, 02:14 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wparsons View Post
Broke a couple stock ones, and wanted the option of spacers up front to get to the camber setting I wanted (-2*). Turns out I didn't need spacers, but I'm glad I swapped the studs anyway.

Fronts are really easy to do, just pull the wheels, calipers and rotors off and you can swap them with the hub in the car. Rears you'll need to pull the hubs.

I pull my wheels before every autox/track event, so the better studs will be cheaper in the long run instead of constantly replacing the stock ones.
Do the rear hubs have to come off with 50mm (Nismo lenght) studs as well or just the 60mm ARP extendeds? Reason I ask is that I have both 50mm and 60mm extended studs and if I can save any time on the install by putting the 50mms in the rear I'll do that.
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Old 11-05-2014, 05:09 PM   #26
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I don't think you can sneak the 50mm nismo ones in, but I could be wrong. I know there's no chance in hell the ARP ones will get in.
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Old 04-16-2015, 06:01 PM   #27
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Would 90lbs still be fine with after market wheels? I have a set of TSW Bardo's installed. Thanks.
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Old 06-27-2016, 05:24 PM   #28
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i was browsing and brought this up from old thread.
i always torqued to 80 lb and had no issue.
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