2022 BRZ, Scargod's Mod's and Track Upgrades

[Scargod]

As the headline says, I'm waiting on a custom-tuned OS Giken diff from Shaftworks, USA! Supposed to see it in one or two weeks.
I hope I get it in time to do one more event this fall. Hoping to shave a second off my laps.
[IMG]attachmentid=216413&stc=1&d=1666563367[/IMG]

[DarkPira7e]

Awesome build, just read through it! I'm considering getting a diff from CSG but I just want a clutch type with aggressive lockup, OSgiken's amazingness would be wasted on me. Should see a significant difference in the snow here

If you never found your answer, the key to fixing those photos is to be certain the aspect ratio isn't portrait - they need to be cropped or taken in landscape. The photo data ignores how you rotate it, so when you upload, the site reads the pixel arrangement an forces everything into landscape.
It sucks, but I've gotten used to re-taking photos I intend to post on the forum in 16x9 landscape format and I've been 100% successful over the past few years since I figured this out.

[Scargod]

Thanks for the input about the photos.
My OS Giken custom tuned diff is coming from shaftworksusa.com and Jon, the owner,who is an ex-OS Giken tech, tunes them himself and it's a good deal.

I'm now shopping for a carbon fiber driveshaft. Will remove 25 pounds and help acceleration.
My goal is to build a faster track car and yet maintain decent streetability and comfort.
For my lap times, I'm only a few seconds off my PB goals. The diff and driveshaft should really help with cornering smoothness and acceleration.
I don't want to touch the engine (I want to keep its reliability) other than I may pull the pan and perhaps upgrade it. That and I have a rare, long-runner header I want to try, once I know there's some solid tuning solutions for the 2022 with the stock ECU.

[Pat]

Originally Posted by Scargod

For my lap times, I'm only a few seconds off my PB goals. The diff and driveshaft should really help.

If you're trying to drop a few seconds you'd be better off focusing on other things. A new differential and driveshaft won't get you much. Depending on your experience and skill, you're better off putting money into coaching, seat time, and tires. A few seconds is a lot.

[Scargod]

At some tracks all I have to compare my lap times to is Spec Miata's or something I've seen on YouTube. I do have my two racing buddies with their 2017 PP cars that have serious suspensions and tuned engines. I'm as fast as them and they're instructors and one an ex-SCCA racer like me.
Sure, anyone can benefit from seat time or an instructor. I have done that, even after 11 years of track days and being in the most elevated run groups.
I have close to twenty days at Club Motorsports (one of my favorite tracks in the N-E).
When I said a few seconds I started to say one or two. It's just that I'm pretty consistent and I'm overdriving the tires at times and I'm reluctant to go beyond the 245 F1 Supercar tires I'm running given the stock power I want to stay at.
So, I'm looking for ways to improve the car's grip/handling.
I've read that the diff can make a noticeable difference.
I welcome any advice. I have thought of removing the aero and tuning the car's handling that way before I go back to aero. OTOH, I'm quite happy with it except for the typical slight understeer at lower speeds under full power.
Note my track day videos.

[Scargod]

Finished the upgrades to the diff today. Friday I'll try it out at Lime Rock.

[Scargod]

Stance really isn't my thing but the 245 Conti Extremes, on 9.5" wide, +44 Volk's wheels with 15mm's worth of spacers on each wheel, looks pretty good.

[Scargod]

Had a blast with my BRZ track buddies. Pretty sure I was under 1:25 (since I have been once before) but my Harry's lap timer was on the fritz. I also could have done better had I remembered to bring my Hawk track pads with me.
Here's[

a short video of one good lap [/URL]by Steve Hanford in his "Series Yellow" Special Edition. We are both running the Eagle Supercar 3R's in 245/17's*.
I think the OSG diff calmed the transitions in turns. I had much fewer twitches of the rear on corner exit.

*NOTE: As a follow-up on the tires, look at Grassroots Motorsports revised article on track tires!

[Scargod]

Wrapped and covered the Nameless/Cosworth long runner headers in aluminum in the area where they go up between the radiator and the engine. Made some stepped washers so I could keep the catback centered on a 3" gasket.
Not a bad install. I just had to move two fan connectors.

[NoHaveMSG]

I used this and cut the cone off of it. Worked perfectly for years on my nameless header.
I also recommend top lock nuts at that connection to keep it from working loose. The factory bolts there are 10mm, 3/8's works in it's place and is easier to find a nut and bolt combo at the local hardware store.
https://www.grimmspeed.com/3-downpip...saAoY4EALw_wcB

[Scargod]

NoHaveMSG,
As I said, I made stepped reducing washers to adapt to the large holes of the stock mid pipe flange. The washers keep the bolts centered. 3/4" round stock worked great.
I'm using 10mm bolts and I'm using washers and locking nuts on the front side. I have a big inventory of hardware from over the years and from building an 818R.

There's about a 1/16" misalignment possible from the gasket and front flange but I eyeballed that when I tightened it and I'm comfortable that it's okay. I doubt that it will leak. Another thing I did was to upgrade to stiffer urethane exhaust hangers.
My intent is to replace the mid pipe with a straighter piece of thin-wall 3" tubing and then it will all be 3" from the front pipe back, since I have a 3" Spintech muffler installed. I have the ability to do any exhaust work I can think up.
I just can't let it get too loud since one track has an 86dB limit and others are 92.

I might have one of those adapters laying around that came with stuff I bought! Didn't think about it till you brought it up. Thanks!

[Scargod]

It's awesome! It's a beast! I floor it and it spins the rear wheels! Guess I should mention that the streets were wet.
Still, my "butt dyno" says it's making more power. It sounds great too. I know many have a fondness for the sound of unequal length headers on a Subaru. I love the smooth sound of equal-length headers and when I get the RPM's up it has more of a high pitch than before. To me it now sounds like a four cylinder, high-compression race engine.

I'm now in the process of ditching the 2" mid-pipe for a straighter 3" pipe.
I'll be getting it tuned on the 15th at EFI Logics.

[Scargod]

I'm working on serious shit now! 3", .050" wall 304 SS exhaust for my BRZ!
This is it, mocked up, ready to MIG tack weld, except for the last bend and the V-bands.
I removed the ear on the diff to get a tighter and higher fit.
Time to start tacking it together and then over to the TIG table. This will be street legal with a swappable straight pipe piece for unrestricted tracks.

[Scargod]

12-15-2022: I had my car tuned on a Mustang dyno. 226 corrected HP and 196 FPT. This on 93 octane pump gas. My mods are K&N filter (charcoal sheet removed) and air horn removed. It has a long tube Nameless/Cosworth header with cat and everything is 3" back to a Spintech muffler and single 2.5" exit. It registered 105dB so I need to add more or a different muffler.
As a side note: It was tuned to 7,600 RPM's and the tuner said that it was starving for air up high, so my next objective is to create an opening in the fascia right in front of the airbox and make a more direct, less restrictive path. I may replace the rubber boot to the throttle body and do some fiddling with the throttle body's throat too. New throttle body?
About a 10% increase for a 2600 pound car (or less). 11.5:1 weight to power ratio.
Car is more than 10% mo-fun!
Dyno chart is me vs a buddy's 2017 BRZ with similar mods. He was at 196. Another with headers was at 190.
Video link to come!