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Old 07-12-2018, 02:32 PM   #1
Cometblack
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Unhappy CEL Light and Stalling at 60MPH

Good Afternoon,

I'm looking for a little help on my 2013 Scion FRS - 80350Miles

This weekend we did a little dirt road drifting, nothing hard really but enough to get some dust in the engine bay. The next day when I was driving the Slip Light came on and stayed on and the next time I started the car the Check Engine light came out as well.

We took it to Orielys and had them pull the codes, unfortunately, he told me I didn't need to know what they were cause they were all BS even though I asked for them. He erased all 10 Codes that came up.

Trying to leave the parking lot the car died so we pushed it back and looked under the hood and realized the air filter was disgusting and immediately bought a new one. Everything was fine until we were heading back to the cities and got hit by a rainstorm. Then the ABS, and Cruise control turned orange and the CEL light came on shortly after that.

We made it home no problem and took a peek at the car and didn't find anything out of the ordinary, we took it to the dealer for them to tell us a bunch of BS about having a warranty for this issue then not and I got frustrated with them.

So I purchased an OBD2 Device and ran the codes myself. The first time we got P1449. C1201 and U0155 once as well and looked for a leak in the vacuum line which was not found (Which was suggested by people with similar problems.). The P1449 stayed consistent at the same time, my hubby decided to delete the sound maker and put on a Perrin Main intake line I will add a picture of the engine bay.

After that, the car seemed like it was running great and no lights. But This morning when I was driving to work, I clutched doing 65 to shift from 5th to 6th and it died. Right there just died, so I just turned the ignition and hit the gas to keep rolling, the car proceeded to do this 3 more times.

I got the reader at lunch and ran the scan again this time getting U0073 and P1604. We took it for a test drive and it didn't die and I didn't clear any codes.

Any Advice?

My husband is suspicious that we got the Spark plugs immensely dirty and they are not firing correctly.
There could possibly still be a leak in the line?
Would the Evaporator canister cause this?
Or did removing the sound maker irritate my car?

I don't know what to do but I cannot afford to take it into a shop.

I feel fairly confident I can replace the spark plugs.
I think I can replace the evap canister

Has anyone had these same issues and codes?
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Old 07-12-2018, 04:25 PM   #2
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Sounds like a damaged MAF sensor to me.
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Old 07-12-2018, 04:30 PM   #3
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Hello Cometblack and welcome to our fine forum.

Maybe your car just don't like dirt road drifting …

Before you start throwing parts at it, I would suggest that you disconnect the negative battery terminal, step on the brakes for a couple of seconds, have a glass of wine, then hook the battery back up.

This will clear all the pesky codes and re-set the ECU.

Then fire it up, check for any reappearing codes and see how she runs.


Come back.


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Old 07-12-2018, 09:15 PM   #4
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Give the whole car a really good wash . . . .
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Old 07-13-2018, 03:18 AM   #5
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@norcalpb: That's a strong possibility.
@humfrz: I unhooked the battery completely and I haven't seen any codes pop up now but that stalling is happening when it's hot still. I was thinking about a good cleaning, changing the spark plugs, unclogging the evap canister, Voltage check the ECU, and then if all that does nothing I think I'm gonna have to try the MAF sensor as Norcalpb suggested.
@ZZT86: Definitely on the list.

Thank you all for your suggestions so far, I've been a lurker on the forum for a year so I'm glad I'm finally gonna be active here so after I fix this I can get some serious mods going
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Old 07-13-2018, 04:08 AM   #6
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You seems to be geting weird random codes related to multiple systems.
Check battery volts battery connection check alternator charge volts should​ be about 14





I susoect you have some electical issue bad ground or water in electrical plugs just seems strange for so many ranndom unrelated codes.


Do you have anything plugged into obd port that may upset can buss communications ?
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Old 07-13-2018, 09:47 AM   #7
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Sounds like electrical problems, so maybe something is shorted. Check the battery as other suggested. Wash the car and look underneath, if any of the fuel lines is broken or kinked your engine might just be lacking fuel or fuel pressure (not enough to trigger a code, but enough to stall the engine with a dirty MAF for example).

Lastly, this is not a rally car, be careful what you do with it (no ground clearance, exposed fuel and brake lines under the car).
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Old 07-13-2018, 12:57 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cometblack View Post
@norcalpb: That's a strong possibility.
@humfrz: I unhooked the battery completely and I haven't seen any codes pop up now but that stalling is happening when it's hot still. I was thinking about a good cleaning, changing the spark plugs, unclogging the evap canister, Voltage check the ECU, and then if all that does nothing I think I'm gonna have to try the MAF sensor as Norcalpb suggested.
@ZZT86: Definitely on the list.

Thank you all for your suggestions so far, I've been a lurker on the forum for a year so I'm glad I'm finally gonna be active here so after I fix this I can get some serious mods going
Well, OK, you got rid of the codes...

Now, the stalling. I doubt there is anything wrong with the spark plugs or the evap system, or the code(s) would come back.

As @norcalpb mentioned, the MAF sensor may be dirty or whacked out.

I would suggest you clean (lots of posts on how to do that) the MAF.

See if that rights it.


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Old 07-13-2018, 01:56 PM   #9
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Clearing codes is not a good thing to do. You've lost all the data that those codes had, which can be read by more advanced code readers than the regular OBD2 readers we all use normally.

Playing parts darts will only compound the issue. Brand new white box parts are defective way too often and when you start putting new parts not knowing the problem (hoping they fix the issue) you will get lost down a rabbit hole very quickly.

When the CEL pops up again, get the code read by someone with the proper tools so they know the conditions under which the CEL was thrown. You don't even know WHY the car stalled out (spark issue? fuel pressure?) and you want to start throwing parts at it. This is going to get real expensive real quick.

I'd recommend getting the issue diagnosed properly- pay someone with the tools and knowledge for an hour of labor to find the problem. Then you can save the money and fix it yourself.
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Old 07-13-2018, 04:53 PM   #10
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Clearing codes is not a good thing to do. You've lost all the data that those codes had, which can be read by more advanced code readers than the regular OBD2 readers we all use normally.

Well …


Since it's ma nap time … I'll just leave this here …
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Old 07-13-2018, 09:23 PM   #11
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Hey Everyone,

So we ended up cleaning up the MAF Sensor, and spark plugs which were holy crap dirty.
We gave the engine a detailing and ran some seafoam through to clean the injectors.

The car is working great now, her idling is steady and her take off has improved immensely.

Fingers crossed this sticks. Shes not reading any codes anymore.

Thank you all for your advice I super appreciate it.
And yes, I will take better care of her.
Leave the rally car things to the miata.
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Old 07-13-2018, 09:41 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Cometblack View Post
Hey Everyone,

So we ended up cleaning up the MAF Sensor, and spark plugs which were holy crap dirty.
We gave the engine a detailing and ran some seafoam through to clean the injectors.

The car is working great now, her idling is steady and her take off has improved immensely.

Fingers crossed this sticks. Shes not reading any codes anymore.

Thank you all for your advice I super appreciate it.
And yes, I will take better care of her.
Leave the rally car things to the miata.

Welp, I'm glad your machine is running good again

So, I would suggest the next time you make a Baja type run, and if your FR-S acts up, clean the MAF (and air filter) first and leave the sparks alone

So, now you are going to punish your miata -


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