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06-12-2016, 06:01 PM | #29 |
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06-12-2016, 07:04 PM | #30 |
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If you're scared, pull up to say one degree in the rpm/load range, where your negative flkc occured.
There's nothing wrong with that. Will probably give you some headroom if ambient temperature raises. If you really care, try to keep flkc below -1 while intake air temperature is about 86deg/F. Later, if ambient temperature raises and knock/bigger negative flkc occurs, pull timing in the iat/ignition compensation tsble. Doing it that way ensures that you don't lose power later, if ambient temps go down. If winter comes, do it the other way around for your iat compensation. I'm on the phone right now, can't post a pic. But here, iat compensation table sits at 0 for 86deg/F and is positive for temperatures less than 86 deg and negative for temperatures above 86. |
06-12-2016, 08:06 PM | #31 |
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Ok thank you. I am going to try running 94 fuel after this tank is empty and see what happens. If flkc does stay below -1 i will look at making some adjustments as u have indicated.
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06-12-2016, 08:31 PM | #32 |
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FBKC & FLKC under -1 is okay. If the IAM did not drop -> dont change anything. You could easily de-tune your car if you are going crazy with this "knock"-chasing.
I also get sometimes FLKC of -0.65 while cruising. And little FLKC of -1.3 between 6200-6700rpm under WOT. But i leave it as it is. Log your stock tune, it runs worse! And i am not aware of an blown engine because of knock. Have fun and drive your car. Else you are going crazy with logging everytime. |
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06-13-2016, 04:12 AM | #33 | |
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At lower load it's not so crucial as the pressures are lower. It's worth checking the FLKC retard value set in the map to see how much it will pull when it retards timing and adjust accordingly. Also you don't have to remove timing for the whole time that the FLKC is negative. One "knock" event will result in retard for a period of time due to the delays etc.
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06-13-2016, 01:30 PM | #34 | |
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I just pulled little more timing in that area and adjusted the timing compensation (iat) table. Shouldn't knock anymore, also i adjusted all this on the lowest octane fuel (98ron), just to be safe. |
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06-13-2016, 03:18 PM | #35 | |
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I would much rather IAM moving around and having zero knock at WOT than the other way around. You can adjust non-WOT regions and reduce lower load knock retard, but you need good length or many logs and use the data correctly. As has been said before, blanket reducing timing based on little data just detunes the car.
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06-13-2016, 03:36 PM | #36 | |
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I will try a new tune tomorrow, i already took a lot of timing out of base timing b. And the typically cruise "knock". I think the best would be to leave it as it is now? My IAM only once dropped from 1 to .88, it was the OTS Stg1 tune. Euro fuel is crap compared to the U.S. I mean, it can not be worse as stock now.. |
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06-13-2016, 05:44 PM | #37 |
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Good thread!. Should cut down on the "how does my log look" posts.
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06-14-2016, 07:05 PM | #38 |
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06-14-2016, 07:18 PM | #39 |
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Stops IAM from changing. Knock retard still happens.
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06-15-2016, 11:36 PM | #40 |
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Does a completely stock car have bad engine knock? If not, what is it about tuning that can create knocking problems? Are there any mods which will most likely increase knocking?
I'm asking this because when I eventually flash the OFT stage 2 uel tune onto my car I want to know if I should be looking out for IAM drops. |
06-16-2016, 12:31 AM | #41 | |
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this is log from stock car on 95 ron fuel probably something like your 91 http://datazap.me/u/steve99/south-af...0-27-28&solo=2 |
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06-16-2016, 12:43 AM | #42 |
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Wow, that's a lot worse than I thought it would be. I guess the tune only makes things better then. Good to know.
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