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Old 12-09-2018, 10:31 PM   #1359
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Originally Posted by Cosworth_0686 View Post
P0102: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0108: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input

It was my understanding that the 2017+ manuals had a different filter which was supposed to be a higher-flowing one, though I was still planning on getting one of these before driving the car around: http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/blit...17-brz-86.html
Seems it's time to go around and check for air leaks and re-triple-check that all the cables are fully connected.



Should this one perform similar to the Cosworth thermostat? It looks like they both open at 76C. http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/mish...stat-1025.html
Yes, that will work.

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Old 12-09-2018, 10:33 PM   #1360
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Originally Posted by Cosworth_0686 View Post
P0102: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0108: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit High Input

It was my understanding that the 2017+ manuals had a different filter which was supposed to be a higher-flowing one, though I was still planning on getting one of these before driving the car around: http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/blit...17-brz-86.html
Seems it's time to go around and check for air leaks and re-triple-check that all the cables are fully connected.



Should this one perform similar to the Cosworth thermostat? It looks like they both open at 76C. http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/mish...stat-1025.html
17 manual airbox is different from all the others from what I remember. Not sure that the filter is the same. I think its a different size.

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Old 12-10-2018, 12:28 PM   #1361
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The longer coupler hose between intake pipe and airbox fixed my intake leak. Funny how that worked out. I suspect when I thought cleaning the MAF was fixing it, I was actually just temporarily reseating the coupler.
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Old 12-10-2018, 02:01 PM   #1362
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'hooligan you must be chuckling to yourself. You had the better solution to my problem for sale (Perrin intake) when I picked the kit up from ya, if only I'd not been so stubborn about doing it my own way.

I recommend anyone installing on a +2017 MT change the intake coupler to the extended one that BoostTheBRZ linked earlier (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I think Subaru may have changed the positioning of the stock airbox snout for the +17's because the Cosworth coupler seemed like it was truly short by about a half-inch or inch.
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Old 12-10-2018, 03:12 PM   #1363
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'hooligan you must be chuckling to yourself. You had the better solution to my problem for sale (Perrin intake) when I picked the kit up from ya, if only I'd not been so stubborn about doing it my own way.

I recommend anyone installing on a +2017 MT change the intake coupler to the extended one that BoostTheBRZ linked earlier (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I think Subaru may have changed the positioning of the stock airbox snout for the +17's because the Cosworth coupler seemed like it was truly short by about a half-inch or inch.
Didn't realize that was you this whole time, lol. Glad you got it sorted out! That intake was the quickest solution I could find to the airbox issue on the 17s.

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Old 12-11-2018, 03:39 PM   #1364
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Is there a way to force the car to re-evaluate its sensors/etc in order to re-provide codes? I made a change, started it again, and P0102/P0108 were still there. I cleared them and started it up a few more times over a day or so(though I haven't driven around), but they haven't returned. Is it safe to assume that they're truly gone? Would there be any chance of damage if I drove around the neighborhood with those codes' issues present?

Edit:
After starting it up and letting it run numerous times, I still haven't seen the codes come back. After seeing http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...12#post2445312 I tried disconnecting the MAF and MAP sensors separately while the car was on, and sure enough, P0102 and P0108+P0113 popped up right away. I think that P0102 and P0108 found their way in while I powered the car on in order to run the coolant pump.

Last edited by Cosworth_0686; 12-12-2018 at 03:17 PM. Reason: Follow-up that didn't seem to really warrant its own post
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Old 12-15-2018, 08:06 PM   #1365
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'hooligan you must be chuckling to yourself. You had the better solution to my problem for sale (Perrin intake) when I picked the kit up from ya, if only I'd not been so stubborn about doing it my own way.

I recommend anyone installing on a +2017 MT change the intake coupler to the extended one that BoostTheBRZ linked earlier (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I think Subaru may have changed the positioning of the stock airbox snout for the +17's because the Cosworth coupler seemed like it was truly short by about a half-inch or inch.
Yes, the shop that installed my SC also said the same thing and at the end we changed the intake coupler to the longer piece as well.
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Old 12-17-2018, 01:31 PM   #1366
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Time for an update on the catch cans. I installed a Mishimoto compact catch can each on a 2016 Cosworth BRZ and a 2015 WRX. I've driven about 500 miles each on these cars. On the left is the blowby from the Cosworth BRZ and on the right is a mostly stock WRX (has Stage 1 Cobb OTS tune). Now remember, the WRX came with forced induction, the BRZ did not.

Obviously the BRZ has significantly less blowby. The BRZ blowby, what little there was, was mostly oil with just a touch of water. The WRX blowby is a mix of oil, water and fuel. Mostly fuel. I would say that the BRZ is quite comfortable going forced induction and the Cosworth should not be an issue for this engine.

The BRZ has about 37,000 miles and the WRX has 77,000 miles. Getting this much fuel blowby in the WRX makes me believe I need to do a walnut blast on the valves sooner rather than later. Probably has incomplete combustion burn due to carbon buildup in the intake from the years of having no catch can.
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Old 12-17-2018, 04:49 PM   #1367
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the crankcase breather on the FA20 engine is generally very good and during our dyno testing we experienced very little blow-by
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Old 12-23-2018, 07:07 PM   #1368
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The longer coupler hose between intake pipe and airbox fixed my intake leak. Funny how that worked out. I suspect when I thought cleaning the MAF was fixing it, I was actually just temporarily reseating the coupler.
Well the car ran ok for about 50 miles, then it started stuttering at part throttle between 2k-3k rpm every 20 seconds or so, which became more frequent and now it's affecting the idle too. Trouble codes are P0300 random misfires and P0172 rich bank 1. My latest idle datalog (https://datazap.me/u/atk800/log-1545...data=3-7-23-24) has a very high MAF reading (I had just cleaned the MAF though, maybe I needed to give it a few more minutes to dry out).

The first ~400 miles were trouble free with a little idle learning, so I know it can run good when everything is in order. Could I have fouled the O2 sensor while it was running too rich earlier? I've cleaned the MAF at least 10 times with the spray cleaner while I was chasing my tail earlier with the short coupler, could it be ruined now?
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Old 12-23-2018, 07:41 PM   #1369
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Your engine is cold when you took this log. So you are in open loop. Try taking a log with a warm engine and let it idle a bit.

Noticed your short term trims were negative and you were recording some misfires. I would bet your plugs are fouled. Incomplete fuel burn and so you get both a misfire and a rich condition. ECU detects this and leans out the mixture which doesn't help the misfire. Your MAF voltage is not much different from mine. So I would suspect you are getting proper airflow now. Maybe in the course of all this, you fouled your plugs.
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Old 12-24-2018, 09:54 PM   #1370
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Your engine is cold when you took this log. So you are in open loop. Try taking a log with a warm engine and let it idle a bit.
It ran so poorly I didn't want to wait.

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Your MAF voltage is not much different from mine. So I would suspect you are getting proper airflow now. Maybe in the course of all this, you fouled your plugs.
It's possible the plugs are fouled, but the MAF reading high makes me think something else is screwy. Do you know your MAF measurement in g/s? My good idle logs have the MAP at 0.28 bar and MAF ~3.2 g/s. I'm going to pull the intake pipe tomorrow or Wednesday to install the catch can and will double check the other vacuum connections. I'm a little worried my MAF is ruined with how much cleaner it's seen over the last month.
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Old 12-25-2018, 10:49 AM   #1371
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It ran so poorly I didn't want to wait.



It's possible the plugs are fouled, but the MAF reading high makes me think something else is screwy. Do you know your MAF measurement in g/s? My good idle logs have the MAP at 0.28 bar and MAF ~3.2 g/s. I'm going to pull the intake pipe tomorrow or Wednesday to install the catch can and will double check the other vacuum connections. I'm a little worried my MAF is ruined with how much cleaner it's seen over the last month.
At 850 RPM I was getting MAP at 0.3, MAF at 2.14. This was back in November when I has a slight air leak from the airbox being overtightened. Now I am getting 0.31 MAP and 2.22 MAF at 850 RPM. Idle at 14.7:1 AFR. My trims are still a little high though.

What all mods are you running? Still on stock air filter? Stock thermostat? Running ACE header? Cosworth tune?

Now that I look at it again, your current MAF reading is much higher than mine. Have you had your throttle body apart or have you pushed on the butterfly valve to try to open it manually (don't)?
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Old 12-25-2018, 11:44 AM   #1372
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At 850 RPM I was getting MAP at 0.3, MAF at 2.14. This was back in November when I has a slight air leak from the airbox being overtightened. Now I am getting 0.31 MAP and 2.22 MAF at 850 RPM. Idle at 14.7:1 AFR. My trims are still a little high though.
Thanks! My idle is set to ~950 RPM, so 3.2 g/s is probably close to where I should be. It did idle fine for some periods.

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What all mods are you running? Still on stock air filter? Stock thermostat? Running ACE header? Cosworth tune?
Just ACE with Delicious tune. Stock everything else. I have no concerns about the tune. The car ran pretty much OEM-like for the first ~400 miles the kit was installed with the only exception being a little bit of initial idle learning. It also ran fine for ~50 miles after installing the longer coupler. I think it's absolutely an install error on my part or some hardware failure in progress. I'm having to troubleshoot in a parking deck for now so lighting is poor.

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Now that I look at it again, your current MAF reading is much higher than mine. Have you had your throttle body apart or have you pushed on the butterfly valve to try to open it manually (don't)?
When I removed the intake pipe the throttle body looked clean. No oil buildup around the plate etc. The more I think about it, I'm hoping it's just some oversight in putting the intake pipe back on. It is dark under the hood and I didn't check that elbow very well before deciding to grab a datalog out of frustration because I was rushing to get out of town for the holidays.
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