Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[StormFalcon]

Originally Posted by toast

Strictly speaking no. But removing the stock headers only removes the precat, which scrubs the exhaust for only the first 30 seconds or so before the main cat heats up. Most states simply use an OBDII check to see if everything is compliance and if you are tuned for it there will be no codes.

This won't work in CA I'm guessing.

Ah I was just confused about that, because CSG says "off-road use only" on their site, and the tomei headers were the only headers that had that label, so I thought there was something especially illegal about them but I guess not. Do you think replacing the stock header with a catted one (like the FT86SF one) would be worth it, or would I run into precat issues again later down the line? I'm afraid catless headers would be loud

[kev0]

Originally Posted by StormFalcon

Ah I was just confused about that, because CSG says "off-road use only" on their site, and the tomei headers were the only headers that had that label, so I thought there was something especially illegal about them but I guess not. Do you think replacing the stock header with a catted one (like the FT86SF one) would be worth it, or would I run into precat issues again later down the line? I'm afraid catless headers would be loud

They put that on the description to protect their asses, since you technically are not allowed to modify headers, or anything that tampers with emissions, in the state of California.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by toast

Strictly speaking no. But removing the stock headers only removes the precat, which scrubs the exhaust for only the first 30 seconds or so before the main cat heats up. Most states simply use an OBDII check to see if everything is compliance and if you are tuned for it there will be no codes.

This won't work in CA I'm guessing.

Sadly yes best you might be able to get away with is a stock decated header... But even then

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[Fullcoverage]

got the supercharger installed and the tune from edelbrock programmed. on cold start the car has a rough idle and settles out I realized my fuel trims are running lean and than my check engine light went on P0171 anyone else with this problem? im going to get a smoke machine from work tomorrow maybe theres a leak somewhere, or is it possible its the tune??

[Fullcoverage]

thanks

Originally Posted by colushi808

Edelbrock needs to send you the tune and it looks like edelbrock are all on vacation until the 2nd.

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[colushi808]

Originally Posted by Fullcoverage

got the supercharger installed and the tune from edelbrock programmed. on cold start the car has a rough idle and settles out I realized my fuel trims are running lean and than my check engine light went on P0171 anyone else with this problem? im going to get a smoke machine from work tomorrow maybe theres a leak somewhere, or is it possible its the tune??

1st thing I would say is bypass valve failure. But since your kit is brand new idk. Im on my 3rd one in a year and that's usually the symptoms.

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[Fullcoverage]

Damn 3 in 1 year!? Thats crazy did you smoke it to find the leak?

Originally Posted by colushi808

1st thing I would say is bypass valve failure. But since your kit is brand new idk. Im on my 3rd one in a year and that's usually the symptoms.

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[colushi808]

Originally Posted by Fullcoverage

Damn 3 in 1 year!? Thats crazy did you smoke it to find the leak?

No smoke test, it was all the bypass valve failing. Easy way to test is to take off the hose that connects to the bypass valve and suck on it until it closes. Then see if it holds the vacuum.

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[djenousis]

Originally Posted by kev0

For those who have had a faulty bypass actuator, what were some symptoms? I suspect mine to be failing. P0171, P1170 and P117B codes.

@djenousis @itsaBRZ did you guys ever find a fix to your problem?

A difficult time engaging 1st gear without the car "bucking". Clutch seemed like it was slipping in higher gears. This was more noticeable when driving uphill. My tuner had me pull out the bypass actuator hose from the back of the blower and start my car to diagnose the problem. A replacement bypass actuator fixed these issues and they have not occurred ever again. Just out of curiosity, why do you think it's your bypass actuator?

[BA9092]

Originally Posted by toast

Finished everything up last night and turned the ignition to ON to check for fuel leaks. Rails were fine, but there was a super fine stream of fuel (about .1mm) shooting out of the banjo bolt fitting to the frame rail. It was so small and perfect that I actually thought it was a single piece of spider silk until I put my hand in it.

A head's up to anyone doing a fresh install. The machined banjo fitting for the high pressure fuel pump was not machined perfectly in my instance. Holding the fitting vertically (with the fuel line connection at the bottom) there was a v-shaped cut at 3 and 9 o'clock in both sides of the face of the fitting. It was a little over a thousandth deep, but it was enough that no amount of torque on the bolt would make the crush washer seal it (you're also threading into aluminum so you can't go very high). I wound up putting a piece of 400 grit sandpaper on my granite block and rubbing the face of the fitting in a figure 8 for about 60-90 seconds on each side before the mark went away.

I'm in the same boat. Just wrapping up the install and I found a very small leak coming from the banjo bolt fitting at the main fuel pump.

Has anyone tried using softer/copper washers to "fill in" the imperfections?

Edit: Well, the sanding as suggested by @toast improved it a bit, but the bottom of the bolt is still leaking. Not ad bad as before. I may just write Edelbrock to see if they can send a replacement banjo bolt and 2 new washers.

[mrntd]

Originally Posted by BA9092

I'm in the same boat. Just wrapping up the install and I found a very small leak coming from the banjo bolt fitting at the main fuel pump.



Has anyone tried using softer/copper washers to "fill in" the imperfections?



Edit: Well, the sanding as suggested by @toast improved it a bit, but the bottom of the bolt is still leaking. Not ad bad as before. I may just write Edelbrock to see if they can send a replacement banjo bolt and 2 new washers.

I had the same problem. I sanded the banjo bolt and used the original washers. No problem after that.

[localhost]

I had the exact same problem with a super fine stream of fuel leaking. No amount of pressure on the bolt would fix it so I ended up getting a set of OEM washers. This fixed the problem completely because it's a much more soft material and actually made a good seal unlike the super stiff one they supply you with in the kit.

I didn't feel like sanding a bolt was a good solution (personal preference I guess) which is why I ended up using a new OEM crush washer there instead of the supplied one.

[BA9092]

Originally Posted by mrntd

I had the same problem. I sanded the banjo bolt and used the original washers. No problem after that.

Originally Posted by localhost

I had the exact same problem with a super fine stream of fuel leaking. No amount of pressure on the bolt would fix it so I ended up getting a set of OEM washers. This fixed the problem completely because it's a much more soft material and actually made a good seal unlike the super stiff one they supply you with in the kit.

I didn't feel like sanding a bolt was a good solution (personal preference I guess) which is why I ended up using a new OEM crush washer there instead of the supplied one.

Thank you both!

I'm going to get a new pair of OEM washers then and see if that does it. However, I can't find a part number anywhere. Are they called fuel rail crush washers? I've seen some online but not sure if they're vehicle specific - most just have a huge selection of Toyota/Subaru vehicles they fit. Also, the size should be 12mm, correct? I don't see any size specs for any of them. Would just ordering a "12mm aluminum crush washer" from Amazon work too?

I can't believe this little bolt has been the most challenging part of the entire install. Lol.

[localhost]

I just asked for OEM crush washers for the high pressure fuel pump because I couldn't find a part number either. It's a weird looking washer. Kind of like a u-shape with two rings connected by a bar on the edge.