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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ


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Old 10-28-2016, 09:52 PM   #15
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I've been using Castrol Edge 0w-20 for mine, been running it since 35k miles through 65k miles. I'm going to start sending oil samples to Blackstone as I haven't seen much info yet.
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Old 10-30-2016, 10:02 PM   #16
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I've been running German Castrol Edge 0w-30 and oil pressures look much better than any 0w-20 under hard usage, high temperature operation.
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Old 10-31-2016, 02:19 PM   #17
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I've been running German Castrol Edge 0w-30 and oil pressures look much better than any 0w-20 under hard usage, high temperature operation.
really? Sounds like it'd be worth it on the street what are your thoughts?
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Old 10-31-2016, 05:11 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Mr.ac View Post
What ever fan boy base you want. Any oil is good these days.
Enos, Mobile 1, Motul, Castro, Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc they will all do the same job, and do it well. It's just which logo looks cool to you, or which one has the hottest race queens models.

Hell you could run Costco Synthetic brand and it would still be good.
Go with what ever price you want to pay. $30 for a jug at any auto parts store or $35 for a shiped jug of oil you have to wait for?

For me I rock Mobile 1, I can get a jug of it for $27 at any Walmart. If I'm low I can find it at any backwater hick vill gas station. And the most important part of all, the Moblie 1 race queens are the hottest chicks I seen.
Exactly this. I track and daily my car with Mobil 1 Extreme (gold cap) 5w-30 during the summer and 0w-20 for the non-track/winter months which can be in the teens or single digit temps here. Like Mr. AC said, it's readily available and cheap if you buy the 5qt jugs. So cheap that I change it and the filter after every track day even though I don't really need to. But it's 15k mile oil if you didn't want to be that CDO.
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Old 10-31-2016, 09:09 PM   #19
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really? Sounds like it'd be worth it on the street what are your thoughts?
It gives some peace of mind knowing the oil pressures are better than with a 0w-20 if I'm intending to track the car. I've seen the oil pressure drop very low into the single digits (psi) during idle after running the engine slightly hotter than normal using 0w-20. The better solution would be an oil cooler. As far as being strictly street driven during the winter time I wouldn't see a need to run thicker oil. Even if you like to punch it to redline now and again. If you're not seeing much sustained high temp operation I really see no need.
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Old 10-31-2016, 09:32 PM   #20
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It gives some peace of mind knowing the oil pressures are better than with a 0w-20 if I'm intending to track the car. I've seen the oil pressure drop very low into the single digits (psi) during idle after running the engine slightly hotter than normal using 0w-20. The better solution would be an oil cooler. As far as being strictly street driven during the winter time I wouldn't see a need to run thicker oil. Even if you like to punch it to redline now and again. If you're not seeing much sustained high temp operation I really see no need.
Agreed. Street driving is much easier on engine oil (and the car as a whole) than track driving. There's just no way to push the car on the street the way you would on a track.

OP - you'll be fine running any brand-name synthetic 0w20 for street use and even some minor track use.
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Old 10-31-2016, 09:32 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by solidONE View Post
I've been running German Castrol Edge 0w-30 and oil pressures look much better than any 0w-20 under hard usage, high temperature operation.
I can second this post to an extent. I am running an oil cooler running Mobil 1 0w-30 advance full synthetic green bottle. Oil literally looks like piss but its doing great so far.
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Old 10-31-2016, 09:33 PM   #22
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I use Motul 8100 0w20 and I think it is superior to both Mobil 1 0w20 Advanced Fuel Economy and Extended Performance, I've used them all. I don't track my car but I sense actual real-world differences between them during street driving. The price difference between Motul 8100 and Mobil is so minimal that I see no reason not to use Motul. 300V is a different story though, which is what you might want for track driving. 300V would be about double the cost of Mobil but I personally would not use Mobil on the track, just from the differences I experienced on the street.

Bottom line - Motul 8100 0w20 is my recommendation for you.
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:52 AM   #23
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Oh look! It's my 3 cents!
I am suggesting regular/early oil changes are more important than the brand of oil being used.
The viscosity you use depends on where you live. If you live in Brisbane I would suggest 5w30. Melbourne? 0w20.
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Old 11-01-2016, 09:12 PM   #24
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Agreed. Street driving is much easier on engine oil (and the car as a whole) than track driving. There's just no way to push the car on the street the way you would on a track.

OP - you'll be fine running any brand-name synthetic 0w20 for street use and even some minor track use.
During the summer months were ambient temps in some places can be consistently in the triple digits or average close to and above 40*c for the metric folks, it might be a good idea to run a thicker oil if you tend to drive hard even if you don't beat on it at a track, I'd say.
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Old 11-01-2016, 09:28 PM   #25
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I use Motul 8100 0w20 and I think it is superior to both Mobil 1 0w20 Advanced Fuel Economy and Extended Performance, I've used them all. I don't track my car but I sense actual real-world differences between them during street driving. The price difference between Motul 8100 and Mobil is so minimal that I see no reason not to use Motul. 300V is a different story though, which is what you might want for track driving. 300V would be about double the cost of Mobil but I personally would not use Mobil on the track, just from the differences I experienced on the street.

Bottom line - Motul 8100 0w20 is my recommendation for you.
Please elaborate on what you sense is better performance with Motul.
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Old 11-01-2016, 09:47 PM   #26
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I use Motul 8100 0w20 and I think it is superior to both Mobil 1 0w20 Advanced Fuel Economy and Extended Performance, I've used them all. I don't track my car but I sense actual real-world differences between them during street driving. The price difference between Motul 8100 and Mobil is so minimal that I see no reason not to use Motul. 300V is a different story though, which is what you might want for track driving. 300V would be about double the cost of Mobil but I personally would not use Mobil on the track, just from the differences I experienced on the street.

Bottom line - Motul 8100 0w20 is my recommendation for you.
Your butt-dyno needs calibration.

I ran Mobile 1 the last ten years on my MR2 Turbo, it's seen 10+ years of daily driving, and about 6 years of autox and track days at Willow Springs in the summer with 90-100 degree temp. So far it's still ticking and working fine.

So if it works great in a mid engine trubo charged car, yeah it's going to work in ours.
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Old 11-01-2016, 09:52 PM   #27
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Brand name synthetic 0W20 no brainer average driver/commuter.

If FI or tracking, 5W30. Slightly less fuel economy, better maintining viscosity during higher temps, protects bearings and other internals.

I have run as high as 5W40 in the past as per HKS supercharger manual.
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Old 11-01-2016, 10:13 PM   #28
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Please elaborate on what you sense is better performance with Motul.
Overall quieter, smoother running engine. With Mobil 1, the engine has this rattle sound, that I have concluded is related to the timing chain. Once I fill up with Motul, that noise is completely gone and this is 100% repeatable. I can switch back to Mobil and the noise instantly comes back. I am certain Motul provides better lubrication for this engine. It's not a coincidence. The engine revs smoother with Motul. That is a small difference but the timing chain noise is not. Power wise, I don't feel any major difference between the 2 and have no data to prove anything.

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Your butt-dyno needs calibration.

I ran Mobile 1 the last ten years on my MR2 Turbo, it's seen 10+ years of daily driving, and about 6 years of autox and track days at Willow Springs in the summer with 90-100 degree temp. So far it's still ticking and working fine.

So if it works great in a mid engine trubo charged car, yeah it's going to work in ours.
Like I said above, I don't sense any power differences. The differences go way beyond power in my situation. Your MR2 doesn't have an FA20 engine. The same oil can behave differently in different engines and I have no doubts Mobil 1 worked well in your MR2.
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