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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ


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Old 04-01-2022, 02:48 PM   #15
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So the Coyote was designed to run two distinctly different oil weights.
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Old 04-01-2022, 04:31 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
if you had an issue and brought your car in for warranty and they figured out you were running the wrong weight, you will very likely be denied warranty.
Subaru technicians put this oil in so they can't void my warranty. Worst case it will be covered by their insurance as technician error. That's how it works here. I mean if they wanted to put this oil on my responsibility I'd have to sign paper stating that it's on me but I didn't sign anything so it's on them. It's authorized / certified Subaru dealership and workshop. Not random barn garage so even if the worst happens I'm covered. But I'd still prefer if worst didn't happen, to avoid trouble both for me and them

So since I picked up this car after oil change I started to record OBD-II traces from my rides from work to home to discuss them later with Subaru and ask if it's okay but I also want to get second opinion on that so...

Today out of nowhere snow fell in Warsaw and temps dropped to 0 because weather decided to prank us. It came to all of us as surprise tbh. But it means I was able to collect 3rd and final OBD-II trace that represents 3rd driving scenario - slippery conditions. As such I have 3 traces from 3 driving scenarios which more or less describe all my driving scenarios:

- hammering on back roads / outskirts / highways
- driving through city centre
- driving through city in terrible slippery / rainy / snowy conditions

Here are screenshots from traces. All of them have the same legend:
green - oil temp
red - water temp
yellow - air intake temp
blue - rpm

green - speed
red - acceleration in G's

Day1 (back roads / highways): max 125°C



Day2 (city): max 115°C



Day3 (snow): max 118°C

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Old 04-01-2022, 04:45 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
If you're going to experiment with it, one step at a time.
So if I were to increase by one step what oil would you recommend? Please consider traces from daily driving shown above if possible.

I'm a bit puzzled because this oil runs quite hot with my driving style, regularly near 120 and guys at Subaru asked me to report when it gets in 120-130 deg range because it may be unhealthy :c According to my observations I'd have to report it like 160 times during service interval or so lol.
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Old 04-01-2022, 05:30 PM   #18
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An adverse consequence of the wrong viscosity oil is that the drag saps power output. I read that the AVCS (valve timing control) is very dependent on the proper oil pressure and flow. What effects are there if the oil is too thick?
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Old 04-01-2022, 07:56 PM   #19
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I'm not familiar with this oil but even if it has a great additive package I'm going to say it's too thick for your engine and usage. I also don't think 125C for oil temp is that hot.

I don't know if our engines are designed for such a heavy 10W50 oil.

Also, hard street driving is much different (easier on the car) than actual tracking. I personally use 0W30 and feel that is sufficient. I doubt you'll find many people using anything more than a 40 weight oil on the forums.
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Old 04-01-2022, 08:17 PM   #20
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Through all of this exercise the answer is the bigger the viscosity number doesn’t mean better. Stick with the manufacturers recommendations or at least close. 50 is double that. Makes zero sense.
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Old 04-01-2022, 10:51 PM   #21
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Through all of this exercise the answer is the bigger the viscosity number doesn’t mean better. Stick with the manufacturers recommendations or at least close. 50 is double that. Makes zero sense.
The factory fill is there to meet EPA enforced fuel economy numbers. Guess who only cares how that your engine only lasts longer than the warranty so they can sell you a new one?
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Old 04-01-2022, 10:54 PM   #22
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I'm not familiar with this oil but even if it has a great additive package I'm going to say it's too thick for your engine and usage. I also don't think 125C for oil temp is that hot.

I don't know if our engines are designed for such a heavy 10W50 oil.

Also, hard street driving is much different (easier on the car) than actual tracking. I personally use 0W30 and feel that is sufficient. I doubt you'll find many people using anything more than a 40 weight oil on the forums.
What do they tell you to run in the cup car with the exact same engine?
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Old 04-01-2022, 11:17 PM   #23
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The factory fill is there to meet EPA enforced fuel economy numbers. Guess who only cares how that your engine only lasts longer than the warranty so they can sell you a new one?
My well known engine builder who has nothing to gain by recommending an oil viscosity does not reccomend anything remotely close to 50. I’d listen to them over someone on the internet that thinks they know what they’re talking about.
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Old 04-01-2022, 11:25 PM   #24
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True or false. The epa mandates fuel economy figures.
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Old 04-01-2022, 11:26 PM   #25
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I don't think @lapsio 's driving conditions are anywhere near needing a heavy racing oil and that it could be worse for the engine in cold weather. This was a mistake made by the guy running the service desk at his dealership. Wouldn't be the first bogus recommendation I've seen by a dealership service advisor.

I would recommend trying a 0w30 or 0w40 euro blend. But I also think you're better with a 0w20 in freezing conditions for cold starts and fuel economy!

@lapsio you should look at BMW M3 bearing failure from that engine running heavy weight oil; this video from savagegeese (former member here) gives a good idea of what you might need to run. His example is in northern climate. Check the video at 10:00.

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Old 04-02-2022, 02:39 AM   #26
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Most everyone is missing the point of the OP when he’s asking if he needs to have this newly installed oil replaced because of the grade. He does not need to and can safely run this oil through the summer, at least. Would a 0w40 or 5w40 be more ideal, yes. But, he can put that in in the fall. And advise the shop to stick with that going forward. He’s does track and will benefit from the extra viscosity.
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Old 04-02-2022, 03:07 AM   #27
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Okay so my conclusions after watching video is that the first thing I need is oil pressure monitoring right? Because without that it's basically clueless guessing what could be going on.

Video here is quite extreme. though. I mean yeah I'm aware that 10w50 will be dreadful in sub zero but like I said I keep car in garage. Even though there was 0 outside yesterday, oil never really reached this temperature at any point to begin with. It was 8 deg in garage which is basically the same temp I have in underground garage in summer.

And it's acceptable for me to just never start car below this temp with such oil. That said I DO indeed think this oil runs hotter than 0w20 did and I have some doubts about that.

So to recap - according to my understanding oil pressure determines how well oil flows through engine so IF i find oil that within my operating temperatures during daily driving (which is around 110-120 C) has similar pressure to 0w20 which is what's recommended for grandpa driving at 90-100 deg C on oil (which I personally still see as "cold engine") then it means flow rate should be fine and I should be good to go?

Last edited by lapsio; 04-02-2022 at 03:18 AM.
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Old 04-02-2022, 07:30 AM   #28
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Stop overthinking this.
Put the factory recommended oil in. (0W-20)
Your local "techs" are morons.

/end_thread
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